Markbass F1 voltage conversion query

[LawrenceH]

Hi all,
I've just taken receipt of a US Markbass F1. I'm aware these can be converted to run at UK voltage, and the markbass manual details the fuses required for 100, 120,230 and 240V so that should be all good.
Can anyone confirm exactly what the jumper switch change should be? I've seen that picture on the talkbass thread which seems to show an f1 but it's not all that clear, and I don't know if the jumper has alternative settings for 230 versus 240 volts.
Also in case it's not obvious which fuse I should change, is it just the one referred to in the manual or should I look elsewhere? I'm assuming down-rating the fuse means changing is just a safety thing, it won't affect normal performance, is that correct?

Thanks for any help!
Lawrence

[icastle]

[quote name='LawrenceH' post='1017544' date='Nov 9 2010, 02:02 PM']Hi all,
I've just taken receipt of a US Markbass F1. I'm aware these can be converted to run at UK voltage, and the markbass manual details the fuses required for 100, 120,230 and 240V so that should be all good.
Can anyone confirm exactly what the jumper switch change should be? I've seen that picture on the talkbass thread which seems to show an f1 but it's not all that clear, and I don't know if the jumper has alternative settings for 230 versus 240 volts.
Also in case it's not obvious which fuse I should change, is it just the one referred to in the manual or should I look elsewhere? I'm assuming down-rating the fuse means changing is just a safety thing, it won't affect normal performance, is that correct?

Thanks for any help!
Lawrence[/quote]

As far as your amp is concerned it doesn't care if it's 230V or 240V (mains is hardly ever exactly 240V).
The usual scenario is that a jumper will have two positions - one position on the jumper will be labelled 110/120V and the other will be labelled 230/240V. [b]You need the 230/240V position.[/b]

The fuse you need to change will just be the one referred to in the manual - the others will be on the other side of the transformer and will always stay the same.

Fuses are passive devices, they have no effect on the sound or performance of your amp so yes, it's purely a safety thing.

HTH

[tombboy]

[url="http://soft.com.sg/forum/gear-bass/183525-markbass-voltage-selector-jumper.html"]This might help.[/url]

[icastle]

[quote name='tombboy' post='1017635' date='Nov 9 2010, 02:56 PM'][url="http://soft.com.sg/forum/gear-bass/183525-markbass-voltage-selector-jumper.html"]This might help.[/url][/quote]

Just the thing tombboy

Lawrence - make sure your jumper looks like the one in the picture and you'll be sorted.

[Dood]

Oh no way! Seriously, I didn't know there was a flippin jumper inside these buggers! - Right, looks like I can go shopping for one stateside as well then. BassChat, I love you.

[Muzz]

Yep, they certainly do - I had a US one I did myself via a bit of desperation-guesswork - the jumper is marked '240/110', or somesuch pretty obvious. There was an amount of clenching required to switch the thing on over here for the first time, but it worked perfectly.

Incidentally, this one was stolen earlier this year, so if anyone in the North West gets offered a 110V stickered LMIII, do give me a shout...

Edit: Just clicked that link above, and its the one I used. Ding dong.

Edited November 9, 2010 by Muzz

[tombboy]

Dan, google is a wonderful thing!! I just typed 'Markbass F1 voltage conversion' and up it popped!

[Dood]

[quote name='Muzz' post='1017754' date='Nov 9 2010, 04:15 PM']Yep, they certainly do - I had a US one I did myself via a bit of desperation-guesswork - the jumper is marked '240/110', or somesuch pretty obvious. There was an amount of clenching required to switch the thing on over here for the first time, but it worked perfectly.

Incidentally, this one was stolen earlier this year, so if anyone in the North West gets offered a 110V stickered LMIII, do give me a shout...

Edit: Just clicked that link above, and its the one I used. Ding dong.[/quote]

Excellent, I reckon I am good to go then! Lets see what I can find lurking on interweb!

[Dood]

[quote name='tombboy' post='1017768' date='Nov 9 2010, 04:21 PM']Dan, google is a wonderful thing!! I just typed 'Markbass F1 voltage conversion' and up it popped! [/quote]


Hehh heh Jamie! - Well, I can't remember where I'd heard that they were all country specific - a bit like older Ampegs that required swapping out the transformer, instead of the newer ones where you can swap the terminals on the primary windings. So, I guess with that in mind, I just never bothered to look!

Ahhh deary me!

[Dood]

Cha-Ching, shopping done.. come to pa-pa!

[icastle]

[quote name='dood' post='1017868' date='Nov 9 2010, 05:49 PM']Cha-Ching, shopping done.. come to pa-pa![/quote]

[LawrenceH]

[quote name='dood' post='1017868' date='Nov 9 2010, 05:49 PM']Cha-Ching, shopping done.. come to pa-pa![/quote]

Yeah good eh?

tombboy, thanks yup that's from the talkbass thread i was talking about, slightly confusingly the relevant picture is titled 'Markbass LMII', hence I wanted to double-check! I don't know about anyone else but looking at US sites, I feel I lose an awful lot in translation

What I meant talking about the fuse with respect to safety was that, I'd expect the F1 to still work without changing the fuse when going 120 to 240 just not the other way round - but are we talking about an internal fuse or just the one in the plug?

Thanks for all the help!

[Dood]

[quote name='LawrenceH' post='1017946' date='Nov 9 2010, 06:44 PM']Yeah good eh?[/quote]

Hell yeah! I'm glad you asked the questioned - otherwise I would have been hassling for flippyfloop in the For Sale forum to sell his F500 instead of trading!


[quote name='LawrenceH' post='1017946' date='Nov 9 2010, 06:44 PM'].... - but are we talking about an internal fuse or just the one in the plug?[/quote]

There is a fuse in the holder underneath the IEC power socket. No need to lift the lid. Infact there should be a spare fuse in the other half of the little drawer too. The F1 I have here (a UK model) has a 3.15A fuse in it. Sorry I didn't check if it was a fast blow or a surge type.

The fuse in the mains plug is designed to protect the lead and can be 13A.

[LawrenceH]

[quote name='dood' post='1017992' date='Nov 9 2010, 07:16 PM']Hell yeah! I'm glad you asked the questioned - otherwise I would have been hassling for flippyfloop in the For Sale forum to sell his F500 instead of trading!




There is a fuse in the holder underneath the IEC power socket. No need to lift the lid. Infact there should be a spare fuse in the other half of the little drawer too. The F1 I have here (a UK model) has a 3.15A fuse in it. Sorry I didn't check if it was a fast blow or a surge type.

The fuse in the mains plug is designed to protect the lead and can be 13A.[/quote]

Right-oh! Thought it was probably so but no harm in an idiot-check. Thanks for the heads-up regarding where it is, and glad to have inadvertently been of help with my question

[MarkBassChat]

Lawrence,

I'm affraid you got some incorrect guidelines how to convert F1 to 230V. That's why in the manual it is written that the amp should be modified only by qualified authorized Markbass technician.
The fuse is listed in the manual and it is 4AT (and not 3.15A).
Also the jumpers are slightly different than on the photo on the other forum. Markbass amps can be set to four different voltages: 100/120/230/240 and in each case it should be done differently. For 230V the "120-240V" jumper should be dissconnected (as on the photo). But there is another, little jumper for 230/240V selection (also visible on the photo). And on the photo it is set incorrectly. For 230V it should be in the middle position (it is marked J8). So the amp is sensitive to 230 or 240V power supply (contrary to what was said above).
I'm new here and I don't know if I can post photos on this forum. Let's see.
HTH,
Mark

[attachment=63537:MarkbassF1.jpg]

Edited November 9, 2010 by MarkBassChat

[icastle]

[quote name='MarkBassChat' post='1018116' date='Nov 9 2010, 09:02 PM']So the amp is sensitive to 230 or 240V power supply (contrary to what was said above).[/quote]

Really?
What voltage is coming out of my mains socket here in Leicestershire then?

Is it
1) 230V
2) 240V or
3) None of the above

Edited November 9, 2010 by icastle

[Dood]

Hi Mark, thank you for the additional information and pictures, that's brilliant. I'll just echo what iCastle has said though. Although I have seen (and owned) amps that happily worked in the UK on a 230V setting (Ampeg SVP for example) the Uk's supply is 240 Volts (kinda average as it can fluctuate.)

If it helps, to clarify, I can get a picture of a UK F1 inside for clearer pics of those lil jumpers.

[MarkBassChat]

[quote name='dood' post='1018142' date='Nov 10 2010, 12:21 AM']Although I have seen (and owned) amps that happily worked in the UK on a 230V setting (Ampeg SVP for example) the Uk's supply is 240 Volts (kinda average as it can fluctuate.)

If it helps, to clarify, I can get a picture of a UK F1 inside for clearer pics of those lil jumpers.[/quote]Hmm, I'm sorry - my mistake. I thought that you have 230V (so the photo I posted is [b]for 230V only[/b]). Please disregard my previous post in this case. Please post a photo of this little jumper. F1 is class-D amp with a switching power supply (with maybe not the best stabilization) and 10V difference may case some problems with the power amp.

Mark

[Dood]

[quote name='MarkBassChat' post='1018163' date='Nov 9 2010, 09:40 PM']Hmm, I'm sorry - my mistake. I thought that you have 230V (so the photo I posted is [b]for 230V only[/b]). Please disregard my previous post in this case. Please post a photo of this little jumper. F1 is class-D amp with a switching power supply (with maybe not the best stabilization) and 10V difference may case some problems with the power amp.

Mark[/quote]

Hey it's ok! it's an easy mistake to make. You were absolutely right for a 230V supply and stuck to your guns, because there's the future of an amp at stake. Ok, I'll upload the pic I have just taken of a UK F1. For utmost clarity for future readers, it is marked as '240V' on the label.

[Dood]

[attachment=63539:UK240VF1a.jpg]
[attachment=63540:UK240VF1b.jpg]


OK, here we go - as clear as needs to be I think. disclaimer taken as read - this change voids warranty and should be carried out by qualified service personnel.

[LawrenceH]

[quote name='dood' post='1018181' date='Nov 9 2010, 09:50 PM'][attachment=63539:UK240VF1a.jpg]
[attachment=63540:UK240VF1b.jpg]


OK, here we go - as clear as needs to be I think. disclaimer taken as read - this change voids warranty and should be carried out by qualified service personnel.[/quote]

This is great! Thanks so much. Very glad I asked this question as no-one's referred to these other jumpers. MarkBassChat, welcome to bass chat and thanks for the clarifications, if you look in the bottom right of your posts you'll see you can edit them so if you want to make things clearer that's an option.
Having said that..
According to wikipedia you're correct in that the UK as of 2008 is on 230V +10%/-6%. Most of the EU is on 230+/-10%. So probably the 230V setting would be appropriate, though hopefully I'm right in assuming either would be fine. I'm quite surprised that there is actually a difference in terms of required jumper settings, it makes me wonder if the F1 is going to be a temperamental amp when it comes to things like outside gigs using generators, long cables etc.

[Dood]

[quote name='LawrenceH' post='1018234' date='Nov 9 2010, 10:57 PM']This is great! Thanks so much. Very glad I asked this question as no-one's referred to these other jumpers. MarkBassChat, welcome to bass chat and thanks for the clarifications, if you look in the bottom right of your posts you'll see you can edit them so if you want to make things clearer that's an option.
Having said that..
According to wikipedia you're correct in that the UK as of 2008 is on 230V +10%/-6%. Most of the EU is on 230+/-10%. So probably the 230V setting would be appropriate, though hopefully I'm right in assuming either would be fine. I'm quite surprised that there is actually a difference in terms of required jumper settings, it makes me wonder if the F1 is going to be a temperamental amp when it comes to things like outside gigs using generators, long cables etc.[/quote]


Hey Lawrence! Ah that's interesting - It'd be an idea for the UK to be the same as Europe to make life a bit easier when taking electrical goods over seas. - The amp I took settings from was a 2007 unit - so I wonder if newer ones are actually set to 230V for the UK market? Hmmm! Interesting stuff here!

Incidently, in the name of science - I just check the mains supply in to my house - I'm receiving 268V AC at the moment! So quite a leap and a bit higher than the 10% tolerance expected. All good stuff!

[bumnote]

[quote name='dood' post='1018142' date='Nov 9 2010, 09:21 PM']Hi Mark, thank you for the additional information and pictures, that's brilliant. I'll just echo what iCastle has said though. Although I have seen (and owned) amps that happily worked in the UK on a 230V setting (Ampeg SVP for example) the Uk's supply is 240 Volts (kinda average as it can fluctuate.)[/quote]

Uk Voltage is now 230V not 240



Beaten

I must learn to type quicker

Edited November 9, 2010 by bumnote

[icastle]

[quote name='LawrenceH' post='1018234' date='Nov 9 2010, 10:57 PM']According to wikipedia you're correct in that the UK as of 2008 is on 230V +10%/-6%. Most of the EU is on 230+/-10%. So probably the 230V setting would be appropriate, though hopefully I'm right in assuming either would be fine. I'm quite surprised that there is actually a difference in terms of required jumper settings, it makes me wonder if the F1 is going to be a temperamental amp when it comes to things like outside gigs using generators, long cables etc.[/quote]

That's [b]exactly[/b] the point I was trying to make earlier.
UK mains can be anything between 216V and 253V (230V +10%/-6%).

If you follow the "out of warranty" rules you'd have to:
1) take a multimeter and measure the mains voltage at every venue
2) arrange for an authorised man in to change the jumpers before you plugged the amp in
...and the chances of any sane human being doing that are..?

It is crazy to believe that a reputable and respected manufacturer like MarkBass, who have sold 1000s of these units, would ever contemplate issuing a piece of equipment that was going to fall apart because of a mere 5% fluctuation in mains voltage (5% being the difference between 230V and 240V).

The reality is that people are just going to plug these things in and use them.
The other reality is that if MarkBass were indeed selling a product that suffered from people doing this, they'd have fixed the issue long ago or suffered a reputation from hell!

So, looking at this sensibly...
if you were to select the 230V option and hit a 253V supply - you are 23V over the limit.
if you select the 240V option and hit a 253V supply - you are 13V over the limit.

I know which one sounds safest to me...

[icastle]

[quote name='bumnote' post='1018265' date='Nov 9 2010, 11:36 PM']Uk Voltage is now 230V not 240



Beaten

I must learn to type quicker[/quote]

Yep
I still say that as they're supplying 5% less electric than they used to, our electric bills should have gone [b]down[/b] by 5% as well