basskit_case Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 Hello, Title says it all, interested in getting a soldering iron for Christmas as I would like to be a little more self sufficient when it comes to guitar repair. I have read up on a few different forums, but thought I would post up here as the peeps on here have not let me down in the past! To expand on this slightly, what would you consider to be the key items required for guitar repair? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icastle Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 (edited) [quote name='basskit_case' post='1043659' date='Dec 1 2010, 12:18 PM']Hello, Title says it all, interested in getting a soldering iron for Christmas as I would like to be a little more self sufficient when it comes to guitar repair. I have read up on a few different forums, but thought I would post up here as the peeps on here have not let me down in the past! To expand on this slightly, what would you consider to be the key items required for guitar repair? Thanks[/quote] [u]Soldering Iron[/u] Don't be tempted into choosing super powerful ones - you'll just melt everything in sight! Go for something no larger than 25W. Antex irons are the easiest to get replacement tips for - I've had one for about 10 years now and it still works just fine They are also bright yellow and you'd need to be blind to miss that on your workbench, therefore saving some burnt fingers! [u]Solder[/u] There are two generally available types - the new "lead free" stuff and the old 60/40 lead/tin stuff. There was a long thread on here recently about the pro's and cons of the two different types and we came down heavily in favour of the older 60/40 lead/tin type. [u]Miscellaneous[/u] These aren't essential, but I find the useful: Stand - sometimes come with the iron but not always - saves burning holes in worktops. Desolder braid - sucks up old solder if you want to resolder a joint. Tip tinner/cleaner - comes in a little tin about the size of a £2 coin. Used to keep your tip clean and makes the last longer. HTH Edited December 1, 2010 by icastle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyfisher Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 Stands are also handy for holding a damp sponge for cleaning the tip. I find de-solder braid can be good for removing the solder from circuit boards but for other desoldering I prefer to use a suction tool, which can be used instead of braid and is generally more useful: I'd agree no larger than 25W for electronic work but for guitar work I'd think about a slightly bigger iron, say around 40W. My reasoning is that guitar work rarely has tiny, delicate components. It's mostly just wires and fairly large components, plus there's usually a pot body to solder to. An iron that's too small will need to be applied to a pot-body for longer than a larger iron, risking overheating the actual pot. Perversely, it's often safer (in terms of component damage) to quickly use a larger iron than to faff around with a too-small iron waiting for things to heat up and melt the solder. As in most things, practice makes perfect. I'd also choose an iron with easily replaceable tips and start out with a decent sized one for the thermal reasons outlined above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Foxen Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 Definitely go for the 40-50w, get a thermostatically controlled one if you are that fussed. Nothing much in guitars is heat sensitive, and pot casings and other heavy things need to heat in them. A solder station type one will come with a stand and sponge, so factor the cost saving on those in and it might not me more expensive for a more flexible tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LawrenceH Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 [quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='1043837' date='Dec 1 2010, 02:30 PM']Definitely go for the 40-50w, get a thermostatically controlled one if you are that fussed. Nothing much in guitars is heat sensitive, and pot casings and other heavy things need to heat in them. A solder station type one will come with a stand and sponge, so factor the cost saving on those in and it might not me more expensive for a more flexible tool.[/quote] +1. My 25 watts iron is fine for component and cable soldering but really struggles with wiring to pot casings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basskit_case Posted December 1, 2010 Author Share Posted December 1, 2010 Thanks for all your input, I was looking at the Antex Soldering Irons in Maplin at the weekend, will go back in this weekend and make a purchase. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkBassChat Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 Yes, you need 40W with electronic circuit for the temperature control. The circuit does not have to be digital - analog is also OK. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bumnote Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 50w soldering iron maplin adjustable £14.99 [url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=35016"]http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=35016[/url] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icastle Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 [quote name='bumnote' post='1044194' date='Dec 1 2010, 07:22 PM']50w soldering iron maplin adjustable £14.99 [url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=35016"]http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=35016[/url][/quote] Use that one and you'll need to buy a proper tip for it - the one that comes with it isn't going to work for soldering pots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icastle Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 [quote name='basskit_case' post='1043994' date='Dec 1 2010, 04:19 PM']Thanks for all your input, I was looking at the Antex Soldering Irons in Maplin at the weekend, will go back in this weekend and make a purchase.[/quote] If you decide to go for a 40W+ soldering iron then be aware that you'll need to keep that specifically for soldering onto pot casings, skeleton sockets (but probably not the sealed types) and fairly heavy duty wires. A lower power one should be used if you decide to work on more delicate stuff involving PCBs and components. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_bass5 Posted December 2, 2010 Share Posted December 2, 2010 (edited) I was in the same boat recently and I got a lot of good advice, mostly from icastle (cheers mate). I ended up getting a cheap 30watt Maplins iron (you do need to buy a different tip though) and this seemed to be a good middle ground. I also have a 40watt and that helped a lot with soldering to the back of the pots but i feel the 30watt would have been fine. I was tempted to buy one of the £50+ temp controlled ones but i didnt feel it was worth ti for the small amount of work ill be doing. I also agree about the 60/40 solder being easier to work with. You can get this in general hardware stores but Maplins dont sell it. This is the thread i started and its worth reading, lots of good advice. [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=110170"]Dull Solder Joints[/url] Edited December 2, 2010 by dave_bass5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icastle Posted December 2, 2010 Share Posted December 2, 2010 [quote name='dave_bass5' post='1045332' date='Dec 2 2010, 04:50 PM']I was in the same boat recently and I got a lot of good advice, mostly from icastle (cheers mate).[/quote] No problem - you managed to get the solder splashes off the ceiling yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robocorpse Posted December 2, 2010 Share Posted December 2, 2010 (edited) Be careful with the Maplin soldering stations. I work in the returns field, and there are HUNDREDS of these coming back every month with faults. Spend the extra money and get a used Weller TCP off ebay and you will never ever need to buy another iron. It will also hold its value really well if you ever decide soldering isn't for you. Loads of tips available for all eventualities, and the HEAT RETENTION is really good on these Magnastat tips, so you won't "run out of heat" when you are doing pots or big chassis lugs etc. Something like these (not mine btw...) usually go for 25-50 quid ish. [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Weller-Variable-Temperature-Soldering-Station-Iron-/250734915178"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Weller-Variable-Temp...n-/250734915178[/url] [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Weller-WTCP-50-Soldering-iron-/110616616784"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Weller-WTCP-50-Solde...n-/110616616784[/url] Edited December 2, 2010 by robocorpse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_bass5 Posted December 2, 2010 Share Posted December 2, 2010 [quote name='icastle' post='1045480' date='Dec 2 2010, 07:01 PM']No problem - you managed to get the solder splashes off the ceiling yet? [/quote] Once i get rid of the blisters on the tips of my fingers ill sort the ceiling out ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icastle Posted December 2, 2010 Share Posted December 2, 2010 [quote name='dave_bass5' post='1045536' date='Dec 2 2010, 07:44 PM']Once i get rid of the blisters on the tips of my fingers ill sort the ceiling out ;-)[/quote] Always got a bl**dy excuse you have... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Foxen Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 [quote name='robocorpse' post='1045507' date='Dec 2 2010, 07:28 PM']Be careful with the Maplin soldering stations. I work in the returns field, and there are HUNDREDS of these coming back every month with faults.[/quote] I picked up one very cheap, and it just had a blown fuse, been fine since. Fuses have scored me so much free and cheap stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lemmywinks Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 I was wondering what tips you guys reccommend for soldering basic guitar stuff? I've been using a cheap 40w solder station with the stock tip, this one: [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Solder-Station-40W-FAST-DISPATCH-/220703993142?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item3362fbad36"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Solder-Station-40W-F...=item3362fbad36[/url] (I bought that one because we used similar ones at school many moons ago) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icastle Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 [quote name='lemmywinks' post='1046868' date='Dec 3 2010, 09:52 PM']I was wondering what tips you guys reccommend for soldering basic guitar stuff? I've been using a cheap 40w solder station with the stock tip, this one: [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Solder-Station-40W-FAST-DISPATCH-/220703993142?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item3362fbad36"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Solder-Station-40W-F...=item3362fbad36[/url] (I bought that one because we used similar ones at school many moons ago)[/quote] It's hard to see what tip is on that iron - I'm presuming its a straight tip (sort of pencil shaped)? What you need is a chisel shaped tip - you need something that transfers heat over a reasonable surface area or, even with a 40W iron, you're going to be sat there for ages heating up a pot casing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lemmywinks Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 Yeah it's the standard pencil shaped tip. Is there a standard type of tip or do i have to buy a specific one for my soldering iron? As it's a cheapy i assumed the cheapy tips would fit, i could do with a finer one as i have a laptop repair to do next week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icastle Posted December 4, 2010 Share Posted December 4, 2010 [quote name='lemmywinks' post='1046953' date='Dec 3 2010, 11:34 PM']Yeah it's the standard pencil shaped tip. Is there a standard type of tip or do i have to buy a specific one for my soldering iron? As it's a cheapy i assumed the cheapy tips would fit, i could do with a finer one as i have a laptop repair to do next week[/quote] They come in different types of fitting unfortunately. I think you might have to resort to trawling the internet and taking a gamble that the tip you choose is the right fitting. Sorry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigGuyAtTheBack Posted December 22, 2010 Share Posted December 22, 2010 Antex 25 Watt, all you will ever need. Been using the same one for over 15 years now, just replaced the tips now and again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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