Stripping a nitrocellulose laquer finish.

[sambassman]

Hiya all
i have this Fender jazz bass with a nitrocellulose finish. but i want to strip it to leave natural.
but im quite reluctant to use chemicals because there is a really nice varnish finish underneith the paint and im afraid it will take the varnish with it. thats what i want to keep.
the paint itself chips away really easily. i can actually scratch bits off.

so, whats the best method of stripping this?


cheers.

sam

[Al Heeley]

You only have 3 choices - chemical stripper, abrasives or heat gun. All of these will affect the lacquer underneath so you have to be prepared to refinish or sand back to bare wood and lacquer or oil finish again. Its virtually impossible to remove half a coating.

[Ou7shined]

It seems you've answered your own question. Though why someone would put nitro over a previous finish without removing it first is beyond me.

[sambassman]

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1059799' date='Dec 15 2010, 05:56 PM']It seems you've answered your own question. Though why someone would put nitro over a previous finish without removing it first is beyond me.[/quote]

yeh its bonkers.
its a factory finish though =/

[sambassman]

[quote name='Al Heeley' post='1059792' date='Dec 15 2010, 05:50 PM']You only have 3 choices - chemical stripper, abrasives or heat gun. All of these will affect the lacquer underneath so you have to be prepared to refinish or sand back to bare wood and lacquer or oil finish again. Its virtually impossible to remove half a coating.[/quote]

whats the best product for stripping the body then?

[ezbass]

Keep on scratching and see how you get on. Almost inevitabley you'll probably get a chunk that takes off some of the clear undercoat though, it seems to be the way of things. Probably best to strip the whole thing (Nitromors do a specific stripper for nitro and varnish, 'Professional' I think, it seems more delicate than the bog standard stuff, yellow can) and either get the body revarnished or go for a waxed/oiled finish.

Edited December 15, 2010 by ezbass

[Protium]

FIRE

[harlowbassplayer]

[quote name='Protium' post='1059851' date='Dec 15 2010, 06:41 PM']FIRE[/quote]


nice but try rubbing the body with a clean cloth once it heats up it will start to come off

[Cat Burrito]

Here are two Precisions I have stripped, both black 1970s basses



I used Nitromors. You need a bit of patience but no heat gun. I did mine outside the house on the patio and on the front step of the house. I too love that undercoat BUT you won't get around keeping it. Any method will damage the undercoat so it has to come off. You'll need a stripping knife / stripping tool too and also sandpaper to tidy up afterwards. I've added a wood dye after on one bass and I use wax at the end.

Very satisfying and I really bonded with the basses as I'd put the hours in. You'll enjoy it. I loved doing mine

[sambassman]

[quote name='BurritoBass' post='1059885' date='Dec 15 2010, 07:02 PM']Here are two Precisions I have stripped, both black 1970s basses



I used Nitromors. You need a bit of patience but no heat gun. I did mine outside the house on the patio and on the front step of the house. I too love that undercoat BUT you won't get around keeping it. Any method will damage the undercoat so it has to come off. You'll need a stripping knife / stripping tool too and also sandpaper to tidy up afterwards. I've added a wood dye after on one bass and I use wax at the end.

Very satisfying and I really bonded with the basses as I'd put the hours in. You'll enjoy it. I loved doing mine[/quote]

cheers.
i think i have some nitromors lying around somewere. ill try that

got miself a little project over christmas haha

cheers chaps

sam.

[Cat Burrito]

It's great fun. What I found is that you may have to leave the Nitromors on for longer than you'd think. It usually takes a few coats too to get it all off. And you have to post the results! My old thread may prove interesting & the pictures should give you an idea of what to expect

[url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=94725&hl=stripping+body"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=...=stripping+body[/url]

[ezbass]

[quote name='ezbass' post='1059816' date='Dec 15 2010, 06:12 PM']Nitromors do a specific stripper for nitro and varnish, 'Professional'[/quote]
This is the one [url="http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?hl=en&q=nitromors&cid=13044610923857849920&ei=5TIJTf6HFIHUyQXcvsz5Cg&sa=title&ved=0CBYQ8wIwAzgA#p"]http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?h...0CBYQ8wIwAzgA#p[/url]

[Al Heeley]

some people smear the nitromors all over then put it into a stout polythene bag for a day - all the fumes and gunk concentrate and it helps get the stubborn bits off, I am told.

[BassBod]

Depends on what is under the nitro. From memory Fender re-issues have a sealer coat under the nitro paint that is a lot tougher to remove. No idea what it is, but I'd guess some sort of polyester - its thicker and much harder than the nitro paint. I'd suggest getting the nitro off fairly gently, (stripper/ scraper and wire wool?) and seeing if the clear layer underneath will give you the look you're after?

[Bloodaxe]

[quote name='ezbass' post='1059816' date='Dec 15 2010, 06:12 PM'](Nitromors do a specific stripper for nitro and varnish, 'Professional' I think, it seems more delicate than the bog standard stuff, yellow can)[/quote]
[quote name='ezbass' post='1060060' date='Dec 15 2010, 09:29 PM']This is the one [url="http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?hl=en&q=nitromors&cid=13044610923857849920&ei=5TIJTf6HFIHUyQXcvsz5Cg&sa=title&ved=0CBYQ8wIwAzgA#p"]http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?h...0CBYQ8wIwAzgA#p[/url][/quote]
I'd not recommend Nitromors Yellow for this tbh. Stick with the Green tins; it might take longer, but it's a lot friendlier to use. There's nowt delicate about the yellow-label stuff!

So what's the difference then?
[list]
[*]Nitromors Yellow is a free-flowing liquid that'll get in anywhere, Green is more of a gel so it stays where it's put.
[*]Green can be neutralised with water whereas Yellow needs either turps/white spirit (or even paraffin) to kill it.
[*]The Green is much more mild-mannered, if you get it on your hands you've ample time to rinse it off under the tap & it only nips a bit. Yellow is very caustic, burns like crazy from the off & running the affected part under the tap has little effect.
[*][url="https://www.paint247.co.uk/generaldocs/HS/Nitromors%20Master%20Craftsman%20Paint%20and%20Varnish%20Remover.pdf"]Safety Data Sheet (PDF)[/url]
[/list]
If it were me doing this, I'd just lard on a load of the green Nitromors, let it sit for a bit, then scrape off the resulting mess with a wide scraper. Once the bulk of it has gone, re-coat with Nitromors & lay about it with some coarse-ish wire wool (000) grade. Finish up with another going over with the N-stuff & finer (0000) wire wool or an automotive-type Scotchbrite pad. Rinse it all off & let it dry. Dry hand-sand lightly with 240 grit wet 'n' dry paper. Refinish as you see fit.

That was how I tackled the factory-applied poly finish on my [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=5094"]Aria SB-1000[/url] & it came up rather well.

An alternative method might be to find one of those Pine Stripping places & let them put the body in their bosh tank.

Pete

[sambassman]

[quote name='BassBod' post='1060454' date='Dec 16 2010, 12:04 PM']Depends on what is under the nitro. From memory Fender re-issues have a sealer coat under the nitro paint that is a lot tougher to remove. No idea what it is, but I'd guess some sort of polyester - its thicker and much harder than the nitro paint. I'd suggest getting the nitro off fairly gently, (stripper/ scraper and wire wool?) and seeing if the clear layer underneath will give you the look you're after?[/quote]

no its not a reissue. its a highway one. they sorta made it so the paint would chip away for a vintage look

[sambassman]

[quote name='sambassman' post='1060759' date='Dec 16 2010, 05:13 PM']no its not a reissue. its a highway one. they sorta made it so the paint would chip away for a vintage look[/quote]

iv jus been scratching it with a screw driver. and the paint is coming of no problem. i may be able to get away with no chemicals. just sand paper and some method of buffing