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Headless Thunderbird


neepheid
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[quote name='neepheid' post='1177128' date='Mar 26 2011, 08:29 AM']Nah, I have lucked out and obtained one which adjusts at the heel, so this procedure will hopefully not cause any problems in that regard.[/quote]

Then it looks like a plan to me. Pretty cool- although I've historically eschewed headless basses, I think this one looks pretty cool. I'm staying tuned in...

You have some good jig-resources for that headstock fillet cut', I guess? Pretty precise cut.

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[quote name='Count Bassie' post='1177150' date='Mar 26 2011, 12:45 PM']Then it looks like a plan to me. Pretty cool- although I've historically eschewed headless basses, I think this one looks pretty cool. I'm staying tuned in...

You have some good jig-resources for that headstock fillet cut', I guess? Pretty precise cut.[/quote]

I intend to use a mitre box to make the vertical cut and then use a flush cutting saw to cut parallel to the headstock face.

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[quote name='fryer' post='1178835' date='Mar 27 2011, 09:42 PM']How are you going to get access to the tuners ?[/quote]

I'm going to recess, but I'm not going to outright cut out the wood in order to preserve the T-bird shape as much as possible.

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[quote name='Batfastard' post='1189452' date='Apr 5 2011, 06:40 PM']I want one of these. Any progress from your last post?[/quote]

Mitre box arrived yesterday, I'm getting rid of a table out of my shed tomorrow night so I can put my Workmate somewhere and get back to work.

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  • 1 month later...

Sorry, nothing to report - been really busy and not really motivated to do anything with it. Once I've done housey stuff like put up shelves, fit roller blinds and fit a Yale on my front door because my neighbours are loud, ignorant and keep dubious company, I don't really feel like attacking another bit of wood.

Once things calm down a bit then I'll continue. The way I see it, I've got until the next Moffat bash to complete it :)

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  • 2 months later...

Right, you want some progress then, do you? OK, I have been shamed into making some. Over the weekend I got to work on attaching the neck to the body. Having never made a neck pocket in my life before (this neck is so different from the old one it's like making a new one) I was understandably nervous about this. I was reading this very useful article which gave me the impetus to get off my backside:

[url="http://buildyourguitar.com/resources/pocket/index.htm"]http://buildyourguitar.com/resources/pocket/index.htm[/url]

However, I'm not quite ready to go straight to the body, so instead I made a template out of MDF marked with a centre line so I can place it on the (similarly marked) body. Using the same trick of clamping two lengths of wood to the sides of the neck then removing the neck I got this (with a router with a roller at the top of the cutter):




What a pain in the backside that my router lacks the plunge depth to do that in one pass, I had to go around, remove the guides then go again with the router directly on the piece. I will need to obtain a different router when I come to do this for real.

Anyway, I then did a test run in some spare MDF:



Which unfortunately was "Fender tight" :) :



Quite pleased with the fit at the heel though (did that by hand on the template, chickened out of freehand routing it...):



No worries though, I will use a trick I learned when I was doing the rebate cutting for the Les Paul selector switch cover. In order to make the hole smaller, I will put a few layers of insulating tape on the roller, thus placing the cutter away from the edge of the template by tiny increments. Cut a long story short it looks like 3 layers is the magic number, 4 seems a bit too tight for unfinished wood, but I'm going to check it out with Rich tonight who can advise me on how much he thinks the finish will reduce the gap.

Once I'm sure that 3 is the way to go, I will seek out a router with sufficient plunge depth and go for it!

Edited by neepheid
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Oh, and I know it makes absolutely no financial sense, but I've decided to obtain some ABM headless hardware in order to do this project. A total extravagance (£170 for the headpiece and 4 individual saddles - more than the bass cost to obtain so far...), but I've come to the conclusion that if I'm going to do it right and I'm actually going to play the damn thing then I'd feel better having stuff that feels right. If I use individual saddles then I'll be able to place the bridge super accurately. This will be a big advantage when bringing together stuff that should never have ever met. It also means no major surgery at the bridge end (the bridge I have will require some serious gouging to accommodate the tuner rollers) as they just sit flat on the deck. The headpiece allows the use of single or double ball end strings.



One question comes to mind - what's the best way of earthing individual saddle bridges? The quick bodge would be a strip of copper shielding foil underneath all four then a wire from last saddle to the cavity, but is there a better, less visible way?

Individual bridge units - expensive, but looks good, no?

Edited by neepheid
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[quote name='Johnston' post='1322805' date='Aug 1 2011, 10:03 AM']Another way of making the template is.

Cut it close then give it a good layer of Isopon and put your neck in the template.

The Isopon hardens to the shape of the neck and bingo perfect template.[/quote]

That's a clever idea. I'll keep that in mind for future - I'll use my tape trick this time as I've got it all worked out.

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[quote name='neepheid' post='1322804' date='Aug 1 2011, 10:02 AM']...One question comes to mind - what's the best way of earthing individual saddle bridges? The quick bodge would be a strip of copper shielding foil underneath all four then a wire from last saddle to the cavity, but is there a better, less visible way?....[/quote]
You only need to earth one bridge piece Matt. Think about it. Where are the strings attached? :)

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[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1322828' date='Aug 1 2011, 10:22 AM']You only need to earth one bridge piece Matt. Think about it. Where are the strings attached? :)[/quote]

Of course, they're all going through the same headpiece. Doh. Thanks man :lol:

See why I don't do this for a living? :)

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[quote name='neepheid' post='1322829' date='Aug 1 2011, 10:24 AM']Of course, they're all going through the same headpiece. Doh. Thanks man :lol:

See why I don't do this for a living? :D[/quote]
Then maybe you'll listen to my advice about not putting on certain hardware just because you can. :)

Only joking bud, it's your baby, carry on. :)

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So, 2 is the magic number (we think).

I hope my Dad's router will have sufficient plunge depth, otherwise I'll have to get my thinking cap on. Probably a case of taking it as far down as I can then finishing off with a good old chisel (cheers for pointing out that get out clause, Rich). My router's plunge depth is about 10mm too shallow. If I can get rid of most of that deficit then I'll be happy.

Also been mulling over finishing. I think I'm going to give it a go myself. I think I'm going to use Plasti-Kote, which I believe is acrylic based. My wife has managed to spray a medicine cabinet with this stuff, surely it can't be that hard!

The hardware has been dispatched from Thomann today. I'm getting quite excited. Once the neck pocket is done I think I'll be able to get this assembled and working pretty quickly. Then it's decisions like "do I reshape the body?" before moving onto spraying.

Edited by neepheid
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