markdavid Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 Hi, I have just aquired an Aria P Bass which I plan on upgrading a little (new pickups , bridge etc) . I intend on replacing the tone and volume pot , however I know and understand very,very little about pots. There seems to be so many different types and I dont understand any of the the terminology (Split shaft , CTS , Audio/Linear Taper, Mini pot). My understanding is that a tone and a volume pot are the same thing (eg if you buy two of the same pot you can use one for volume and one for tone) is this correct. Can anybody point me in the right direction as to what pots I need to use for a P Bass as I am baffled , also if you know of anywhere that you can recommend I purchase from that would be very helpful. Sorry if I sound like an idiot but im a bit of a noob when it comes to this kind of thing , thanks in advance for any input you may have Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neepheid Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 Terminology: Split shaft - have a ribbed exterior and take press on knobs. The shaft is split down the middle, and the two parts can be squeezed together slightly if the knob is a bit of a tight fit. Solid shaft - smooth exterior. They require knobs that have a grub screw that tightens through the body of the knob and onto the shaft CTS - manufacturer of pots, used by Fender (I think?) Audio taper - the value of the pot progresses in a logarithmic fashion (half the travel of the pot does not correspond to half its value). All you need to know is that these are the ones to get, as their operation is closer to what human ears perceive Linear taper - the value of the pot increases/decreases directly with the adjustment of the pot. To human ears, this will give something of an "all or nothing" response. Basically, don't use these in a guitar Mini pot - well, if your control cavity is small, these might work better than standard size pots. Yes, you use the same type of pot for volume and tone (log/audio taper). Seymour Duncan have a good range of wiring diagrams here: [url="http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/"]http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/[/url] There's a sticky in the Tech forum of suppliers of bits. I favour WD Music, but feel free to shop around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EBS_freak Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 Also if you are looking at coil tapping or anything like that, you get pull-push pots and push-push. Pull Push is where you pull the knob out from the control plate to activate the function and then push it back down to deactivate. When pulled, the knob sits proud (fnar!) of the control plate. Push Push is where you push the knob once to activate the switch and push it again to deactivate. (The disadvantage to this one is that there is no visble cue that the switch is activated/deactivated... however, it's quicker to activate than the pull push) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markdavid Posted January 28, 2008 Author Share Posted January 28, 2008 (edited) [quote name='neepheid' post='129257' date='Jan 28 2008, 01:31 PM']Terminology: Split shaft - have a ribbed exterior and take press on knobs. The shaft is split down the middle, and the two parts can be squeezed together slightly if the knob is a bit of a tight fit. Solid shaft - smooth exterior. They require knobs that have a grub screw that tightens through the body of the knob and onto the shaft CTS - manufacturer of pots, used by Fender (I think?) Audio taper - the value of the pot progresses in a logarithmic fashion (half the travel of the pot does not correspond to half its value). All you need to know is that these are the ones to get, as their operation is closer to what human ears perceive Linear taper - the value of the pot increases/decreases directly with the adjustment of the pot. To human ears, this will give something of an "all or nothing" response. Basically, don't use these in a guitar Mini pot - well, if your control cavity is small, these might work better than standard size pots. Yes, you use the same type of pot for volume and tone (log/audio taper). Seymour Duncan have a good range of wiring diagrams here: [url="http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/"]http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/[/url] There's a sticky in the Tech forum of suppliers of bits. I favour WD Music, but feel free to shop around.[/quote] Thanks for the info guys So if I was to change the pots on a P Bass , would these pots work [url="http://www.allparts.uk.com/catalogue/product_info.php?cPath=91004_91053&products_id=11266"]http://www.allparts.uk.com/catalogue/produ...oducts_id=11266[/url] Edited January 28, 2008 by markdavid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldGit Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 You might want to read my thread asking about tone capacitors for a P whilst you are in the cavity with your soldering iron [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?s=&showtopic=12096&view=findpost&p=127122"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?s=&sho...st&p=127122[/url] OG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreeneKing Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 Ref Audio vs Linear I thought that it was Audio for volume and Linear for tone (or was it t'other way around?). No I'm fairly sure I'm right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex_luthier Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 It's the right type of pot (Audio taper) If you have 'push-on' knobs you want a 'Split shaft pot', if it has a small 'grub screw' in the side of the knob then you want a 'Solid shaft pot' 500k pots are good for volume & tone pots 250k pots can be used as tone pots Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldGit Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 Split shafts are generally made in the far east and are 6mm Solids are made for the determinedly anti metric US market (also in China, usually ) and are a tad larger, (or is it smaller?) and some weird imperial size like 63/64th of a perch or something ... So the make sure you order pots that fit your knobs or you'll have to replace the knobs too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MB1 Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 [quote name='lex_luthier' post='129547' date='Jan 28 2008, 08:29 PM']It's the right type of pot (Audio taper) If you have 'push-on' knobs you want a 'Split shaft pot', if it has a small 'grub screw' in the side of the knob then you want a 'Solid shaft pot' 500k pots are good for volume & tone pots 250k pots can be used as tone pots[/quote] MB1. And if you just want to get high, smoking either of these POTS is not advisable! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markdavid Posted January 29, 2008 Author Share Posted January 29, 2008 [quote name='GreeneKing' post='129545' date='Jan 28 2008, 08:21 PM']Ref Audio vs Linear I thought that it was Audio for volume and Linear for tone (or was it t'other way around?). No I'm fairly sure I'm right.[/quote] Well that throws a spanner in the works , can anybody else confirm that Audio is for volume and Linear is for tone ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lfalex v1.1 Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 [quote name='GreeneKing' post='129545' date='Jan 28 2008, 08:21 PM']Ref Audio vs Linear I thought that it was Audio for volume and Linear for tone (or was it t'other way around?). No I'm fairly sure I'm right.[/quote] I'm fairly sure you're right, too! [quote name='lex_luthier' post='129547' date='Jan 28 2008, 08:29 PM']It's the right type of pot (Audio taper) If you have 'push-on' knobs you want a 'Split shaft pot', if it has a small 'grub screw' in the side of the knob then you want a 'Solid shaft pot' 500k pots are good for volume & tone pots 250k pots can be used as tone pots[/quote] I thought dogma suggested 250k for single coils and 500k for humbuckers. That said, my Squier 70's VMJ has 500k for single coils. Gives a Brighter edge to dark-sounding pick-ups... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOD2 Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 [quote name='GreeneKing' post='129545' date='Jan 28 2008, 08:21 PM']Ref Audio vs Linear I thought that it was Audio for volume and Linear for tone (or was it t'other way around?). No I'm fairly sure I'm right.[/quote] Strictly speaking you are correct - Audio (log) for volume and Linear for tone. You must have Audio for volume as this matches how the human ear percieves sound. A Linear volume pot would be all on or all off with no gradual variation in between. The tone circuit, however, is an electronic circuit and not directly an audio circuit (although it does have an affect on the sound). A linear tone pot would give a linear variation of tone whereas an audio tone pot might have all the variation at one end of the pot travel. Where the confusion arises is that, to keep their parts inventory simpler, most manufacturers copy Fender and use audio taper pots for both. Given that the tone circuit is usually less used and less important than the volume circuit, no one seems to mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreeneKing Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 I know that the concentric stacked pot I fitted to my Bob Glaub had one linear pot and one audio one, fit for purpose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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