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John East (Bass Preamps) and Customer Service


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And from me.

I use them in two basses and the basses sound good passive, IMO. The pre can liven things up on stage and you really don't need to go mad with the tweaks to get very good results.

The tone shaping possibilities can be extreme, but you don't need them flat out at all...just a notch here or there and your sound
is up another level in live situations, IMO.

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[quote name='Musicman20' post='1130645' date='Feb 17 2011, 09:46 AM']How hard are these to fit? Id quite like one for a Jazz bass.[/quote]
Piece of cake, only the grounds need to soldered together, the pup wires are solderless connections. Just make sure your cavity is not tapered at the jack end, like I just found out, I need to shave a couple of mill out in a small area, no big deal though, just a little bit near the top of the cavity so the switch fits comfortably.

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I put one in my 2006 American Jazz Deluxe last month...awesome.Slightly off topic,some of the Marcus Miller pre amps were wired wrongly from Fender,i had mine re wired correctly.I'm sure John's pre amp will piss all over the factory ones though.

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[quote name='Musicman20' post='1130645' date='Feb 17 2011, 09:46 AM']How hard are these to fit? Id quite like one for a Jazz bass.[/quote]
Also check the cavity depth - the dimensions are on John's web site. I had to route about 2mm more out of the one on my Squier VMFJ to get the J-Retro to fit.

I wouldn't be surprised to find that John East has been involved in the design and production of the majority of bespoke bass pre-amps made for UK luthiers. As well as the ACG filter amps he's responsible for the pre-amp in the active Gus basses, the Enfield and at least one of the Overwater models.

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[quote name='McBass' post='1130661' date='Feb 17 2011, 09:58 AM']Slightly off topic,some of the Marcus Miller pre amps were wired wrongly from Fender,i had mine re wired correctly.[/quote]

Oh yes? I'm interested to know if mine's wired right. Could you point me in the direction of a thread or let me know how the wiring should look?

Steve.

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[quote name='StevieC' post='1130926' date='Feb 17 2011, 01:02 PM']Oh yes? I'm interested to know if mine's wired right. Could you point me in the direction of a thread or let me know how the wiring should look?

Steve.[/quote]
[url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f38/marcus-miller-jazz-bass-wiring-problem-173709/"]marcus miller[/url]
[url="http://www.audiocourses.com/article1845.html"]marcus 2[/url]

I did the true bypass mod and it made a hell of a difference tonally.

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[quote name='silddx' post='1128405' date='Feb 15 2011, 02:45 PM']I have just bought another pre from John, and I simply can't say enough about the quality and design of his products, and his incredible customer service.

He gives Basschat members 10% discount, although I refused it this second time as I consider it an introductory offer, his prices are perfectly fine anyway. His communication, attention to the customer's needs and the advice he gives are testament to the very best intention to provide exceptional customer service and support and products. It seems completely natural to him. His aftersales support is ace too.

His preamps are built to the highest standards and sound fantastic. I can't wait to get my new J-Retro 01 into my new Jazz Bass!

We really need people like John running businesses in the UK.

[url="http://www.east-uk.com/"]http://www.east-uk.com/[/url]

EDIT: I just found this recent thread which proves my point :) [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=118830"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=118830[/url][/quote]


+10 at everything.

when I wanted to replace my 2EQ in the Stingray (I wanted extra mids, without losing the 2EQ character) I wrote to John to find just how much of the 2EQ it retains... he was very helpful and reassuring talking about how he used his own Stingray to model the rpeamp, sending pictures of his testing apparatus and all... And I got him to install an active/passive switch por just the price of the new pot required, and he even made it cheaper than what he quoted me initially.

Very good service. I had no idea he offered a 10% discount, that would have made me nearly £20 richer! But I'm happy to pay full price. The results are fantastic.

The J-Retro01 I have was bought used, here in basschat, so I didn't have to deal with him that time... but it's another incredible preamp.

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[quote name='Musicman20' post='1130645' date='Feb 17 2011, 09:46 AM']How hard are these to fit? Id quite like one for a Jazz bass.[/quote]


like they said... extremely easy and fuss-free.

The only issue *may* be with the depth of the cavity. There are so many versions of the Jazz with slightly different measurements. I suspect if yours is a MIA Jazz it'll fit fine. But check first: dimensions of the preamp are on the website.

I went to put one on a non-Fender Jazz copy, and found I needed a few extra mm depth. Fortunately I have a router so it was ok. That's what took me the longest:
- loosen strings and lift bridge
- lift bridge pickup
(to be able to place the router over the cavity. <5min)
- use router manually, adjusted to remove about 4mm from the bottom (5-10min)
- clean, refit (10min)
- install preamp (<5min)
- test & smile :)

Most people don't have the depth issue and can do it in 5min.

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I've been chatting with John about getting an East preamp to stick in my Tanglewood Baron (see thread in my signature).

He's been massively helpful with helping me pick out the perfect pre-amp to suit all my needs and has got one that I can install without having to drill new holes into the bass to fit it (always a bonus) - I'm getting a U-Retro 4 Knob Deluxe and hoping to put an order in today.

One question though...how easy are they to fit for layman? I know how to use a soldering iron, but that's about it. If anyone know's any Leeds based sparky's who could help me out, let me know :)

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[quote name='chuck_stones' post='1139893' date='Feb 24 2011, 01:05 PM']I've been chatting with John about getting an East preamp to stick in my Tanglewood Baron (see thread in my signature).

He's been massively helpful with helping me pick out the perfect pre-amp to suit all my needs and has got one that I can install without having to drill new holes into the bass to fit it (always a bonus) - I'm getting a U-Retro 4 Knob Deluxe and hoping to put an order in today.

One question though...how easy are they to fit for layman? I know how to use a soldering iron, but that's about it. If anyone know's any Leeds based sparky's who could help me out, let me know :)[/quote]

I have a U-Retro 4 Knob Deluxe too. in this ..



They are easy to fit. Most of it is solderless, just the ground wires require soldering. You'll need to know which pickup wires are hot and cold. Follow his instructions carefully and call him if you hit a problem.

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[quote name='silddx' post='1139965' date='Feb 24 2011, 01:53 PM']I have a U-Retro 4 Knob Deluxe too. in this ..



They are easy to fit. Most of it is solderless, just the ground wires require soldering. You'll need to know which pickup wires are hot and cold. Follow his instructions carefully and call him if you hit a problem.[/quote]

Sick! What bass is that....It's unusual. Me likey :)

Cool, I was hoping to not have to do too much soldering. How do you know which pickup wire is hot or cold?

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[quote name='chuck_stones' post='1140007' date='Feb 24 2011, 02:40 PM']Sick! What bass is that....It's unusual. Me likey :)

Cool, I was hoping to not have to do too much soldering. How do you know which pickup wire is hot or cold?[/quote]
Thanks mate :) I designed and built it from parts and a body my mate made for me from my design based on Chris Squire's Electra. Build diary is here [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=94028&hl=electra"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=...&hl=electra[/url]

Hot wire is usually white, cold is usually black. Grounds are probably black and the insulation may be thinner than the pup wires. Do it as per John's instructions, if it doesn't work, or sounds really thin and weedy, reverse the wires. You may also accidentally wire them out of phase which will sound weird with both pups on, just reverse the wires in one pickup in that case. It's a matter of unscrewing the terminals and swapping the connections, no soldering for the pup wires. But shoot John an email or call him if something sounds wrong, he's amazingly helpful.

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[quote name='bh2' post='1139997' date='Feb 24 2011, 02:32 PM']Wow!

John's a top bloke to deal with... he's fairly local to me.

The guy who assembled my J-Retro is a long time drinking buddy.

Here's mine in a piece of wood...

[/quote]
That looks lovely! Love the cream covers :)

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[quote name='John-E-Retro' post='1140324' date='Feb 24 2011, 07:36 PM'][size=2][b]Huge thanks for your very kind words guys, really very much appreciated![/b][/size]

[size=2][b]But I was only doin my job guv, honest!![/b][/size][/quote]

point is my friend, it is one hell of a good job! Best wishes, one of your very satisfied customers, Rich

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