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Squier P-Bass


hellothere
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Wazoo I was wondering if yu (or anyone else for that matter) could suggest a wiring kit of equivalent quality that is shipped from the UK to save me paying the shipping cost?

Also what is the general consensus on which pick-ups that give the best "preceison bass" sound?

Edited by hellothere
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While the PG may be the right size - the holes are a longshot to get one that actually has coinciding holes.

I have had a lot of good experience with getting the shape of PG I want - or color or whatever and just plugging the existing holes in the body with toothpicks and white wood glue and drilling new holes once the PG is in place.

Herein lies another point of concern: there are different screws too. Some are Metric and some are on the King's Nose dimensions - with different thread pitches and threaded length under the heads. The one glaring difference is that some take Phillips #1 and other take JIS#1 cross-head drivers.

The heads will be a slight difference in crown shape and overall diameter. If you put an SAE or UK equivalency dimensioned screw in and a JIS next to it - it's a glaring difference that will catch your eye all the time.

There are SOME Squiers that will need a custom PG too - I have one that won't take a MiM, MiA, MiI or CJ PG since the trench routed for the jack is so large that there'd be an open area next to the PG uncovered.

From my experience with my VM-Jazz, I had only one screw hole that actually was in the right place:::







With some masking tape to control the depth of the drill:::



Test fit [u]every[/u] move and measure six times, but drill/cut once.

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Two questions, both of which are probably facepalmingly stupid, one is what is the need for the toothpicks?

Second is does it matter what type of drill I use when doing work on my bass? I imagine a smaller one would be better as it would be easier to manoveure. Or so long as I use a drill bit that is the right size does it not matter?

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[quote name='hellothere' post='1154840' date='Mar 9 2011, 02:55 AM']Two questions, both of which are probably facepalmingly stupid, one is what is the need for the toothpicks?

Second is does it matter what type of drill I use when doing work on my bass? I imagine a smaller one would be better as it would be easier to manoveure. Or so long as I use a drill bit that is the right size does it not matter?[/quote]

The toothpicks are to fill the unwanted holes - being tapered you just push them in until they stop and snap the remainder off. I usually put a little bit of wood glue down the hole first to make sure it becomes 'part of' the overall wood, but it probably isn't really necessary.

You can use any drill really, one of those wee Dremell type things is the best though as you can control them easier.
it doesn't need to be a super posh one - someone pointed out recently that ALDI were selling a 'no name' branded one complete with a whole pile of attachments and drill bits for about £17.

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If I were you I'd start by replacing all of the electronics except the pickups. Putting decent quality electronics in certainly won't do any harm. Once you get it working again you can decide if you want to mess around with the pickups. You might also want to do some basic electronic mods like shielding the controls (this is really cheap and easy to do).

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Ok thanks for clearing that up icastle and looks like a trip to Audi is in order.

Psychosis could you reccommend a good quality electronics "pack" that contains all the components I'd need? Like the one wazoo suggested on the first page but one that dosn't have to be shipped from the US?

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Yep, +1 on axesrus, free delivery. Get alpha pots, they are cheaper and just as good as CTS IMHO.
Remember old rule, 250k for single coils, 500k for humbuckers (although you can experiment)
One of the reasons that people think putting the expensive electrics in really opened up their bass is that they had the wrong pots in there to start with. Every cheap strat I have ever had came with 500k audio taper pots in it. Fine for the volume, but for a sweeter tone roll off, a 250k linear taper is far better (again IMHO).
If I were you I'd get a 250k audio taper for volume, and a 250k linear for your tone. Stick a .047 orange drop cap to the tone control and you'll be laughing. It's what I have in my old P, and it really did change it.

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[quote name='Jerry_B' post='1156059' date='Mar 9 2011, 11:21 PM']Try here for electronics stuff: [url="http://www.axesrus.com/axeWiringBass.htm"]http://www.axesrus.com/axeWiringBass.htm[/url][/quote]


That`s the one that I got for my bitsa P. Decent enough gear and they are good people to deal with. Go for it!

Jez

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