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Potential Scam....


Geester
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I was told about a scam recently where an individual buys a US unit for little money then returns to the UK. On arriving home then buys a secondhand unit of exactly the same spec but of UK origin, then complains to the UK seller it's not UK voltage, whereupon they return the unit they purchased abroad. They effectively get a US/UK swap for free, this was told to me by a couple of guys who work in music stores where both have had someone attempt this recently.

Beware people who -

A - Travel alot...
B - Never give their home address, prefer to give an 'office' address
C - Get back in contact with you immediately upon receiving the unit and say they are not prepared to plug it in...

Anyone else heard of this?

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[quote name='Geester' post='1173541' date='Mar 23 2011, 05:04 PM']They effectively get a US/UK swap for free, this was told to me by a couple of guys who work in music stores where both have had someone attempt this recently.[/quote]

Surely simply keeping track of serial numbers is the solution to this?

S.P.

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[quote name='Geester' post='1173541' date='Mar 23 2011, 05:04 PM']I was told about a scam recently where an individual buys a US unit for little money then returns to the UK. On arriving home then buys a secondhand unit of exactly the same spec but of UK origin, then complains to the UK seller it's not UK voltage, whereupon they return the unit they purchased abroad. They effectively get a US/UK swap for free, this was told to me by a couple of guys who work in music stores where both have had someone attempt this recently.

Beware people who -

A - Travel alot...
B - Never give their home address, prefer to give an 'office' address
C - Get back in contact with you immediately upon receiving the unit and say they are not prepared to plug it in...

Anyone else heard of this?[/quote]

Just sounds like a lot of effort for no return to me.

If I buy an xyz amp in the US and then falsely swap it for a UK one, why didn't I buy the UK one in the first place?

Am I missing something really obvious here?

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[quote name='icastle' post='1173595' date='Mar 23 2011, 05:53 PM']Just sounds like a lot of effort for no return to me.

If I buy an xyz amp in the US and then falsely swap it for a UK one, why didn't I buy the UK one in the first place?

Am I missing something really obvious here?[/quote]

The idea is that you pay less for the same item.

Eg. for easy maths, an item worth £1k, you buy it from America which works out as roughly £700. You take it to a UK shop claiming you bought it from them and they must have sold you a US one by mistake. They swap it and you've saved 30%.

Its crafty but shops always ask for receipts anyway. Id aim for the work experience lad when you turn up to do the 'exchange'.



Dan

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[quote name='pietruszka' post='1173606' date='Mar 23 2011, 06:01 PM']The idea is that you pay less for the same item.

Eg. for easy maths, an item worth £1k, you buy it from America which works out as roughly £700. You take it to a UK shop claiming you bought it from them and they must have sold you a US one by mistake. They swap it and you've saved 30%.

Its crafty but shops always ask for receipts anyway. Id aim for the work experience lad when you turn up to do the 'exchange'.[/quote]

Yeah I can see that working with new kit but this scam involved SH kit from the US?

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Sounds like the kind of little or no return scam a bloke in a nearby town to me tried a few years ago. He was making pound coins with a mould he'd made. They were excellent copies, detail, weight, the colour which IIRC was from a spray can was right, everything worked ............ BUT ............. he made them out of solder.............. and it cost him more in solder than they were each worth. :)

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[quote name='Big_Stu' post='1173612' date='Mar 23 2011, 06:07 PM']Sounds like the kind of little or no return scam a bloke in a nearby town to me tried a few years ago. He was making pound coins with a mould he'd made. They were excellent copies, detail, weight, the colour which IIRC was from a spray can was right, everything worked ............ BUT ............. he made them out of solder.............. and it cost him more in solder than they were each worth. :)[/quote]
And his brother was making 10 p peices...it took him hours to file the corners off the 50's though

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[quote name='Geester' post='1173541' date='Mar 23 2011, 05:04 PM']Anyone else heard of this?[/quote]

I'm wondering exactly what items would fall into this category - most modern consumer electronics will happily accept voltages from 110 to 240.

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[quote name='pete.young' post='1173966' date='Mar 23 2011, 10:09 PM']I'm wondering exactly what items would fall into this category - most modern consumer electronics will happily accept voltages from 110 to 240.[/quote]
Not (all) amps, mine does though :)

This sounds more like it's about the voltage than the money to me. Buyer gets American amp cheap off ebay or brought into the uk themselves then realises they can't use it so outlays again at full price for new uk spec version then takes the USA one back in it's place for a refund so they get the correct voltage model and new to boot. I could see it going wrong though.

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[quote name='Soliloquy' post='1174016' date='Mar 23 2011, 10:39 PM']Most amps are universal, they either switch over automatically when they sense a different voltage, or there's a switch on the back. With Markbass you have to take the top off and switch some leads about.[/quote]
Loads of amps can't be done mate and it's a costly modification or a separate step down box which is a faff and another box to carry. The reason we are so familiar with switches outside or inside is that we have the uk versions which can be tapped off at 110-120v for very little extra cost where a us model will often have only the us voltage windings which won't allow for the reverse. Class D amps don't appear to have this issue but many large class A USA spec amps (Mesa boogie was the last thread I read about this) certainly do.

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[quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='1174047' date='Mar 23 2011, 10:57 PM']Loads of amps can't be done mate and it's a costly modification or a separate step down box which is a faff and another box to carry. The reason we are so familiar with switches outside or inside is that we have the uk versions which can be tapped off at 110-120v for very little extra cost where a us model will often have only the us voltage windings which won't allow for the reverse. Class D amps don't appear to have this issue but many large class A USA spec amps (Mesa boogie was the last thread I read about this) certainly do.[/quote]

+1.
Yep - there was a thread on here just last week about the Mesa and there's a potential Ampeg one starting at the moment.

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[quote name='icastle' post='1174068' date='Mar 23 2011, 11:13 PM']+1.
Yep - there was a thread on here just last week about the Mesa and there's a potential Ampeg one starting at the moment.[/quote]
Correct and not always a cheap get out to be had hence this scam. Makes sense to me, we should of suggested it in the Mesa thread :) where's the Ampeg one.......

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I've never come across someone who's actually bought back a large Mesa or Ampeg with them on a flight. By the time they've paid the excess baggage and the import duty I don't see that they'd be any better off. I doubt they'd convince an airport customs officer that they took it with them.

I think this may be a myth.

Surely also shops have inventories of the stock including the serial numbers. I really doubt that you'd be able to buy a new USA model, bring it back into the country (avoiding the aforementioned baggage and customs charges). Then buy another the same from a UK shop, and then take the US model back in the place of the UK model.

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No I don't think those would be brought in on flights but could be shipped in with big savings in some cases but with sad faces when the plug won't go in the socket :) unfortunately like you did many people presume because the uk amp has a switch the USA version will too that's when the trouble starts and your stuck with a brand new USA amp you can't use, some may still be possible to swap onto other windings or a relatively cheap fix available many others it seems it's not.

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  • 3 weeks later...

[quote name='Skezza' post='1197957' date='Apr 13 2011, 11:35 AM']I just read an Caveat Emptor piece which gives motive to this one of yours mmmm

skez[/quote]

Yes. The plot thickens and leaves me feeling decidedly uncomfortable...

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Sounds like a "let's dream up a scam" sort of thing.

As already mentioned, it sounds like a lot of effort for little reward. Plus, as mentioned, serial numbers would quickly reveal the scam.

Another thought, I believe fixed-voltage appliances tend to have fixed mains plugs, whereas universal ones tend to have IEC connectors and are supplied with the appropriate 'kettle leads', so a fixed-voltage US amp would be rather easy to spot.

The whole premise sounds daft to me.

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[quote name='flyfisher' post='1198193' date='Apr 13 2011, 02:15 PM']Sounds like a "let's dream up a scam" sort of thing.

As already mentioned, it sounds like a lot of effort for little reward. Plus, as mentioned, serial numbers would quickly reveal the scam.

Another thought, I believe fixed-voltage appliances tend to have fixed mains plugs, whereas universal ones tend to have IEC connectors and are supplied with the appropriate 'kettle leads', so a fixed-voltage US amp would be rather easy to spot.

The whole premise sounds daft to me.[/quote]
Completely daft.

It reminded me of this one: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=131539"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=131539[/url]

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[quote name='flyfisher' post='1198193' date='Apr 13 2011, 02:15 PM']Another thought, I believe fixed-voltage appliances tend to have fixed mains plugs, whereas universal ones tend to have IEC connectors and are supplied with the appropriate 'kettle leads', so a fixed-voltage US amp would be rather easy to spot.[/quote]
Not necessarily - my GK head has an IEC inlet (which is fairly standard for an amp anyway) and is [i]internally link-selectable[/i] from 120V to 240V (for all intents and purposes a 'fixed-voltage' appliance). Carnage could ensue if connected to an outlet of the incorrect voltage, even if supplied with the 'correct' kettle lead i.e. set internally for 120V but supplied with and connected using a UK kettle lead. And I'm sure you would run into the same problem with just about any other amp manufacturers' equipment.

Ian

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