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Setting up a fretless and getting nasty buzz points


Clarky
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I do all my own set- ups on electric basses and find it pretty straightforward (credit card gap below strings, blah blah). However, have just swapped the strings on my '71 P/j fretless for TI flats and I cannot get it right. I have tried to follow the same principles as an electric but I am either getting buzzing on the E and A or the D and G when I alter truss rod and play around with bridge saddle height (I like low action). Am I doing it wrong or does the board need re- shooting? Thanks all

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[quote name='Beedster' post='1178101' date='Mar 27 2011, 11:34 AM']The neck's been off the bass for several weeks Clarky, you'll need to let it settle down under tension for a while before you can get it right. I had no problems with that neck at all, and with a very low action

C[/quote]
Thanks Chris, I tried it with Chromes first and it was fine but the tension was too high for me, especially in the lower positions, hence switch to TIs. It's only on these lower tension strings I have found a problem.

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Low tension strings by definition need more allowance for vibration than regular - is it continual buzz no matter how gently you play or is it just that your regular playing style is too hard for them? You can put a tad more slack into the neck than the credit card width if you normally play at the lower end, but if you play all over the neck a higher action it is. A replane might help but only so much

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Thanks but it is only at certain points the on the strings that the buzz appears (bit like wolf notes). When I slacken off the truss rod to cut out the buzz points on the E and A, the D and G buzz/choke at the high end. IfI do the reverse to sort the D and G, then th eproblem recurs on the E and A. Maybe I shall just have to accept higher action?

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Can you get a straight edge that runs the length of the neck that you can track from top to bottom (E to G) to scan for dips? I'm not saying the neck is crook, it's just something to tick off the check list. Aslo how does it look looking down it for a twist (the t/r should only be adjusting top or bottom not lateral flex)?

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[quote name='Clarky' post='1178183' date='Mar 27 2011, 12:39 PM']Thanks but it is only at certain points the on the strings that the buzz appears (bit like wolf notes). When I slacken off the truss rod to cut out the buzz points on the E and A, the D and G buzz/choke at the high end. IfI do the reverse to sort the D and G, then th eproblem recurs on the E and A. Maybe I shall just have to accept higher action?[/quote]

IME a very low action and TI Jazz flats are not the best combination on a fretless mate

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[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1178203' date='Mar 27 2011, 12:57 PM']Can you get a straight edge that runs the length of the neck that you can track from top to bottom (E to G) to scan for dips? I'm not saying the neck is crook, it's just something to tick off the check list. Aslo how does it look looking down it for a twist (the t/r should only be adjusting top or bottom not lateral flex)?[/quote]
Thanks, it looks pretty damn straght to me but I don't have a long straight edge to check. I think Beedster may be right and I need some strings that are higher tension than TIs and lower tension than the heavy Chromes I tried first (which didn't produce the buzz problem). I have some Pyramid Gold flats which are in-betweenie. Think I'll give them a go later today

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I wouldn't worry too much about getting a super-low action with a fretless. Lower tension strings are always going to buzz when the action is low. Higher tension ones seem prone to thwacking too (but maybe I play too hard). Aside from that, it may be the neck that's not helping too. Are the strings making any slight marks where you're getting the buzzing?

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[quote name='Beedster' post='1178207' date='Mar 27 2011, 11:59 AM']IME a very low action and TI Jazz flats are not the best combination on a fretless mate[/quote]

Not sure about the TI flats but the action does generally need to be higher on a fretless.
Just looked at mine and I've allowed about a 3 credit card gap and it plays just fine...

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postscript: swapped over for Pyramid Flats and with a bit of truss rod and bridge tinkering have solved the problem. The action is a bit higher than I was initially after especially on D/G but it's fine - it's about 4mm on E at 12th and about the same on the G. thanks all for comments

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I just set up my fretless and jumped on here to give the results....

Then I saw your thread and decided to add the comment here :)

My problem was that I could not play the first two notes on any of the strings (F F# / A# B etc)

I altered the truss rod (slackend it off) and then tweaked the bridge and it plays great now!

It had been fine until I decided to hang it on the wall instead of keeping on a stand.

I went for my lesson on Wednesday and it was awful (the bass not the lesson!).

All sorted for this week :)

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