aceuggy Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 (edited) Not really 100% sure this qualifies as a rebuild, but I have a Fender P bass, not sure of the date yet because I suspect the serial number on the neck plate is not an accurate guide as I don't think it's original. The neck is twisted, so I intend to replace the neck, bridge, tuners and strings. Firstly this is my bass as it is at the time of typing. Edited June 14, 2011 by aceuggy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aceuggy Posted April 7, 2011 Author Share Posted April 7, 2011 (edited) I have a nice Mighty Mite neck that I am going to tint for a darker, more "vintage" look and apply a decal. Edited April 10, 2011 by aceuggy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scruffynerfherder Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 Looks cool man Should be straight forward enough, hope it goes smoothly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harlowbassplayer Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 [quote name='scruffynerfherder' post='1191934' date='Apr 7 2011, 04:45 PM']Looks cool man Should be straight forward enough, hope it goes smoothly[/quote] what you doing with the old neck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aceuggy Posted April 8, 2011 Author Share Posted April 8, 2011 [quote name='harlowbassplayer' post='1192537' date='Apr 8 2011, 07:37 AM']what you doing with the old neck [/quote] Not sure yet, but I'm going to hang on to it for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aceuggy Posted April 11, 2011 Author Share Posted April 11, 2011 (edited) Well, one learns from one's mistakes as they say. Took the neck off today only to find that my Mighty Mite neck doesn't quite fit, so it will need a bit of sanding down to get a good tight fit into the pocket. Only problem is that I have already given the neck and headstock a good spray with a nice brown lacquer which I will have to sand off again now....DOH! Well I won't touch the headstock as I have also just applied a nice decal. As an aside, as I thought, the neck plate isn't original as there is a date stamped in the neck pocket May 19 1990. Also another number, looks like 410, not sure what that is! The neck plate serial number 258837, I think, suggests something in the early 60's. Edited April 11, 2011 by aceuggy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aceuggy Posted April 11, 2011 Author Share Posted April 11, 2011 (edited) Some pics of the neck and headstock after tinting. Edited April 11, 2011 by aceuggy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aceuggy Posted April 11, 2011 Author Share Posted April 11, 2011 Decal added. Just need to put some clear lacquer over to seal it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aceuggy Posted April 11, 2011 Author Share Posted April 11, 2011 New Gotoh 203 bridge fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gary mac Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 Nice job, I'm about to do the same to a Squier neck, tinting and decal that is. Who did you use for the decal and lacquer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aceuggy Posted April 12, 2011 Author Share Posted April 12, 2011 (edited) [quote name='gary mac' post='1196664' date='Apr 12 2011, 11:51 AM']Nice job, I'm about to do the same to a Squier neck, tinting and decal that is. Who did you use for the decal and lacquer?[/quote] The lacquer came from these guys [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190508976512&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...e=STRK:MEWNX:IT[/url] you have a pm about the decal. Apologies if this sounds like I'm trying to teach a hen how to suck eggs, but based on my own mistakes here I have three pieces of advice. First make sure your neck fits the pocket before you start to tint, second do the tint slowly, don't try to apply too much at once or it will run and thirdly when you cut the decal down to size get it as close as you can to the print because when you slide it off the backing paper the margin you left around the printed area will be how big your decal will be and it's not so easy to trim it once it's off the backing paper, if that makes sense Edited April 12, 2011 by aceuggy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPJ Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 [quote name='aceuggy' post='1196796' date='Apr 12 2011, 01:48 PM']The lacquer came from these guys [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190508976512&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...e=STRK:MEWNX:IT[/url] you have a pm about the decal. Apologies if this sounds like I'm trying to teach a hen how to suck eggs, but based on my own mistakes here I have three pieces of advice. First make sure your neck fits the pocket before you start to tint, second do the tint slowly, don't try to apply too much at once or it will run and thirdly when you cut the decal down to size get it as close as you can to the print because when you slide it off the backing paper the margin you left around the printed area will be how big your decal will be and it's not so easy to trim it once it's off the backing paper, if that makes sense[/quote] ...and go easy with the lacquer over the transfer for the first couple of coats as waterslide decals can lift when you apply lacquer. I've found its best to 'dust' a couple of layers over first and let these dry before hitting it with a full coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gary mac Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 Thanks for the tips and pm, most helpful. I was planning to deal with the same company for the lacquer. Did you use the sealer/primer coat that they advise prior to the proper coatings. If I do the job the way they recommend, it means purchasing three different cans of lacquer products. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aceuggy Posted April 12, 2011 Author Share Posted April 12, 2011 [quote name='gary mac' post='1197312' date='Apr 12 2011, 08:54 PM']Thanks for the tips and pm, most helpful. I was planning to deal with the same company for the lacquer. Did you use the sealer/primer coat that they advise prior to the proper coatings. If I do the job the way they recommend, it means purchasing three different cans of lacquer products.[/quote] No I didn't seal it as there was a light lacquer already applied. Just used the tinted lacquer and the satin clear lacquer to finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gary mac Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 Thanks. I will need to rub the finish back to bare wood, so I guess I will need to use the sealer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aceuggy Posted June 14, 2011 Author Share Posted June 14, 2011 Well, I have put my bass back together now. Had to rout out the neck pocket to get the neck to fit. Have added some Schaller tuners and string tree, some Ernie Ball flatwounds and finally a bridge and pick up ash tray. Didn't touch the pick ups or electrics and I'm really pleased with the way it feels and sounds. This bass has cost me in the region of £700 and I could have bought a nice new Fender for that I suppose, but I have put my mark on this and it's a keeper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gary mac Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 Nice job it looks good. What's the next project then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aceuggy Posted June 15, 2011 Author Share Posted June 15, 2011 [quote name='gary mac' post='1269670' date='Jun 15 2011, 09:10 AM']Nice job it looks good. What's the next project then?[/quote] Thanks Gary, no more projects on the horizon. Just play and enjoy my bass for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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