dc2009 Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 (edited) So a lovely Epi Thunderbird Pro-IV was dropped off to me today by the postie. Being a fleabay job, it's got a few dings, but seeing as I got it at 165, I'll deal with it. This isn't just a porn post, so read below! Got a strap put on her straight away, as I go to stand up, the neck strap button, screw and all comes out of the hole. I also noticed there was a hole with a similar issue next to it, where the screw threads have become so worn, the screw just goes straight in and out without any purchase on the sides (see pic). So, I assume I need to filler and paint over these, as well as placing a new strap button somewhere else. So questions: Where do I put the new strap button? I know these things are notorious for neck dive, yet I've been told placing the button on the back of the body fixes it, but where abouts? Any BCers done this themselves and got a perfectly balanced TB? Bear in mind this is a T-bird Pro, and is neck through construction, not bolt on, and may be balanced differently (Mahogany wings on a 7 piece walnut/maple neck). How do I go about putting a new strap button hole in? Hand tools, drills, or just take it to a guitar shop (how much will they do it for roughly?). I have no tools myself, though it's not beyond the realms of possibility that I could go and be cheeky down in my uni department workshop and ask them for a tool loan. Finally, I've been looking at custom pickguards. Plenty of places do them in all sorts of varieties. Warmoth I understand only make them for their own TB-style bodies, though does anyone know if they'lll fit my bass. Then again, plenty of other sites, wdmusic, and guys like this on ebay ( [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Gibson-Thunderbird-IV-Bass-Pickguard-STAINLESS-STEEL-/330554746705?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item4cf6992751#ht_2228wt_1139"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Gibson-Thunderbird-I...#ht_2228wt_1139[/url] ) say that these do not fit Epiphone basses. Yet this guy here ( [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CUSTOM-metal-BASS-Pickguard-fits-Gibson-Thunderbird-new-/260769399079?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item3cb7114127#ht_3009wt_1139"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CUSTOM-metal-BASS-Pi...#ht_3009wt_1139[/url] ) says his does fit many Epi TB's, including my specific model. So what's the story, anyone know of any that particularly do or don't fit? Why would someone like wdmusic say theirs don't fit epis if they do (i'd imagine they'd sell more if they did). P.S. Not associated with either of those listings, just using them for reference. Thanks, Dan Edited April 21, 2011 by dc2009 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRBboy Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 Usually, if you're gonna put a strap button on the back, it would go about where the neck join is. The Pro's are thru-neck aren't they? So I would probably go for about an inch back in from where the neck starts on the flat of the body (hope this makes sense!). Ideally, you would make a small pilot hole with a battery or hand drill that's just smaller than the shank of the screw. A Bradawl or something similar will do a pretty good job if you just keep gently turning it to create a small hole. I've fitted numerous strap buttons just by turning the tip of my penknife to create a small, countersunk hole! You should just be aware that screwing straight into wood without any pilot hole will increase the risk of the wood spliting, although with the size and density of a bass, and the screw being so small, this is highly unlikely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dc2009 Posted April 21, 2011 Author Share Posted April 21, 2011 Anyone got any ideas about the custom pickguards situation on an Epi TB pro? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longtimefred Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 personally i would glue the strap button back into the original hole. and fill the one that has been bodged. thats if you arnt bothered about putting different ones on in future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomBassmonkey Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 The best place for balance would be to screw into the back of the neck join. You should be alright to just screw in, though a small hole drilled first wouldn't hurt to reduce the chances of the wood splitting and as a guide. Another option is to use match sticks (or another soft wood) and wedge them in the hole, screw in the screw, take it out again and fill again. I've done that with various basses and guitars and it's always worked well. You won't need to glue, but again, it doesn't hurt. All pick guards will be different, your best bet is to email wherever you plan to buy from and ask them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRBboy Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 All responses courtesy of The Sandberg Appreciation Society! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomBassmonkey Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 Happy to help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icastle Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 You'll not get wood filler to stay in the hole. Best thing you could do would be to use wood glue in the hole and fill it with bits of snapped off cocktail sticks (it's denser than matchstick wood) until you can't force any more wood in there. Using a dremel type tool, drill a new pilot hole for the wood screw once the glue has set overnight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomBassmonkey Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 [quote name='icastle' post='1207575' date='Apr 21 2011, 09:48 PM']cocktail sticks (it's denser than matchstick wood)[/quote] Cocktail sticks would be fine, but as a note, don't go too dense. Things like shards from drumsticks (which I've seen people use) can be denser than the wood your bass is made from and will encourage the wood in your bass to split rather than compress the wood you're using to fill the hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzz Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 Exactly what icastle said, the "proper" way of doing it would be to make a small plug from a dowl, but the cocktail stick method works just as well if not better. I'd try that first and seeing how it balances with the original hole. I know from experience the normal Epiphone T-Birds don't balance well unless you move the strap button to the neck heel but I've no idea what the Pro's are like due to the different construction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRBboy Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 In my days as a carpenter, I found that fine sawdust mixed with normal PVA-style wood glue to make a sort of putty, makes an excellent filler with much better bonding properties than regular filler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jean-Luc Pickguard Posted April 22, 2011 Share Posted April 22, 2011 The first batch of Pro IV & Pro V T-birds had the front strap button in the usual neck dive position, but the later ones, including my natural-oil Pro V have it on the back of the neck heel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ancient Mariner Posted April 22, 2011 Share Posted April 22, 2011 One thing you can do, if you use the soft matchstick approach, is to glue them in with PVA, drill the pilot hole after they've dried and screw the strap retaining screw in once, then straight back out again. The run thin cyaonacrylate adhesive into the hole and let it set. The cyano with strengthen the threads in the matchsticks and also bond the lot together better. This technique is used in model making, where you need threads in balsa wood to withstand repeated insertion of screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dc2009 Posted April 23, 2011 Author Share Posted April 23, 2011 [quote name='Jean-Luc Pickguard' post='1208084' date='Apr 22 2011, 11:07 AM']The first batch of Pro IV & Pro V T-birds had the front strap button in the usual neck dive position, but the later ones, including my natural-oil Pro V have it on the back of the neck heel.[/quote] I think this must be from the original run. If I were to move the strap button after trying the matchstick approach (which I think I will do later with large amounts of superglue - anything wrong with this?), to the neck heel area, which would be best to screw into, the walnut or the maple? Thanks for all of the help from various people by the way. Particularly the sandberg club. I feel I should mention that the Sandberg is next on my list of basses to buy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT40Graham Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 Hi, This is my Thunderbird ProIV with the strap button on the heel as fitted at the factory, this will be the best place to put yours. Do make sure that you drill a proper pilot hole for the screw, don't just poke a hole with a bradawl because if the screw breaks, you will regret it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dc2009 Posted April 25, 2011 Author Share Posted April 25, 2011 Thanks all, it is currently holding, touch wood, using a coupla matchsticks rammed into a superglue filled hole. Let's hope it lasts! Will look at moving the strap button to the neck heel soonish, she does neck dive like a b***h! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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