Routing bodies - what do you use?

[Ancient Mariner]

I'm still thinking about adding a second (lipstick) PU to that Ryder. My inclination is to use a dremel/mini-craft type drill with a router bit on a flexible shaft and hand cut the PU slot. This worked well when I had to clean up someone else's messy routing in a strat, but I wondered if anyone had any better suggestions or technique tips. I'd like a 'real' router, but that's a GAS too far right now.

[mcnach]

I bought my router (Black & Decker KW850E, with variable speed, various attachments etc) used but like new on eBay. Cost? £12.50 plus another £10 postage. My router bit cost almost as much as the router!
Just an idea!

I do like the dremel idea too, because although it's probably more time consuming, it probably allows you to do more delicate work without fuss. In fact I should get one too.

[Ou7shined]

I'm old school. I use a chisel. I find it far more accurate than a router (like <mm accurate)... although it does take longer obviously.

Here's a '78 P body undergoing the ou7shined treatment.
(MFD 'bucker where the old P used to be, reverse P in the bridge position and a rout for the G&L bridge anchor)

Edited April 23, 2011 by Ou7shined

[mcnach]

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1209431' date='Apr 23 2011, 07:23 PM']I'm old school. I use a chisel. I find it far more accurate than a router (like <mm accurate)... although it does take longer obviously.

Here's a '78 P body undergoing the ou7shined treatment.
(MFD 'bucker where the old P used to be, reverse P in the bridge position and a rout for the G&L bridge anchor)
[/quote]


That is outstanding!

[Ou7shined]

[quote name='Johnston' post='1209469' date='Apr 23 2011, 08:08 PM']Fixed [/quote]
Like it.

Thanks guys, without wanting to hijack the thread too much, the end result was even sicker (opened up the control cavity too).

[stingrayPete1977]

Your the man Rich!

[paul_5]

The two times I have done this I've used chisels. Really carefully. Not on expensive basses either; Brian Eastwood would be my first port of call for stuff like that on an expensive bass.

[Horizontalste]

Again not wishing to hijack, but how would this chisel/ dremel method work on basswood? Id doesn't seem as dense as Alder.

[LukeFRC]

[quote name='Horizontalste' post='1210324' date='Apr 24 2011, 08:25 PM']Again not wishing to hijack, but how would this chisel/ dremel method work on basswood? Id doesn't seem as dense as Alder.[/quote]

faster.

[Oakbear]

Basswood is an American term for lime. Lime is often the carvers choice as it's light and cuts easily, so hand carving should be a doddle.

[Bloodaxe]

[quote name='Horizontalste' post='1210324' date='Apr 24 2011, 08:25 PM']Again not wishing to hijack, but how would this chisel/ dremel method work on basswood? Id doesn't seem as dense as Alder.[/quote]
Personally I'd shy away from using a Dremel for this sort of thing as there's a great risk of burning it out, knackering the bearings, and shattering the bit. It's almost a given that the blade will become blunt very quickly resulting in a lovely charred effect as it burns its way through.

Chisels will do it all, [i][b]provided they're sharp[/b][/i]. What you buy in the shop is really a bit of metal with a handle on one end, getting it to the point where it'll cut nicely takes a bit of work.

These links might be of use:

[url="http://www.antiquetools.com/sharp/index.html"]A Guide to Honing and Sharpening[/url]

[url="http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=28819"]A Video[/url]

The video is a bit hardcore tbh, you don't need to go for the mirror finish that guy's achieved, but the key part is right at the end where he's cutting end grain. Listen to the sound each blade makes - his uberhoned chisel sounds markedly different from the other two & leaves a staggeringly clean cut.

Diamond stones aren't expensive these days. Every so often Aldi get them in for around a tenner. They're also superb for putting a razor sharp edge on cooking knives.

To answer your question about Basswood vs Alder; Basswood tends to be softer, so the chisel will compress the fibres before it starts to cut. The cut fibres will then spring back after the edge has passed which can result in a ragged cut with a tendency to 'tear out'. The sharper the blade the less chance there is of this happening.

Pete.

[Soliloquy]

A luthier .

I'm very attached to my fingers.

[Ancient Mariner]

I'm very impressed by the quality of Ou7shined's routing, but remembering how I was at school, I'm pretty sure my work wouldn't be like that. Good point about tool sharpness too.

Most likely I'll use the dremel type then.

[Dudgeman]

A plunge Router is the way to go. You don't need to get an expensive one just get good tct cutters. The real trick is to always make a template of the pickup / trem cut out etc first and then use a router with a bearing guide cutter to follow round the inside of your template. Something like this but I use a very small one so I can keep the corners tight.
[url="http://www.carbideprocessors.com/products/Whiteside-3002-%252d-Template-Router-Bits-(Ball-Bearing-Guide)-%252d-Quarter-Inch-Shank,-Carbide-Tipped.html"]http://www.carbideprocessors.com/products/...ide-Tipped.html[/url]
I tend to use 1-2mm plastic or resin sheets to cut out a template using a pillar drill and a jigsaw with a very fine blade..then you can sand them perfectly before sticking or clamping to your pride and joy and routing away. Make sure all faces of the template are really smooth as the cutter will follow every imperfection. Using a system like this allows you to fine tune your template until you have a perfect fit. Much better to ruin a template than your bass. Ultra sharp chisels are a must otherwise, but if you get your template right first you shouldn't have any need for one. The other bonus of routing is being able to fine tune the depth of the cut out to exacting tolerances.

If like me you have been routing for years it is possible to freehand rout ..I did a friends floyd rose trem fit freehand the other day..but you have to to be super confident in your abilities and know your equipment 100%..oh and have a very steady hand!

[Horizontalste]

Cheers Guy's, i think il go for the uber sharp chisel method and practice on some old lumps first.

[Horizontalste]

Cheers Guy's, i think il go for the uber sharp chisel method and practice on some old lumps first.

[Bassassin]

Does anyone else keep catching the title of this thread & seeing "[b]Rotting[/b] Bodies"?

Just me, then.

Anyway: polythene rubble bags, 2m depth hole, fill with concrete.

Jon.

[Ross]

[quote name='Bassassin' post='1212237' date='Apr 27 2011, 12:58 AM']Does anyone else keep catching the title of this thread & seeing "[b]Rotting[/b] Bodies"?

Just me, then.

Anyway: polythene rubble bags, 2m depth hole, fill with concrete.

Jon.[/quote]
Wrong, everyone knows you go to a graveyard miles away from your home in the dead of night, dig a predug grave slightly deeper. Then bury the body, cover with soil to bring to it's original height.
They'll put a coffin on top, bury that, and no one will ever find it.

Pity cremation is becoming so fashionable these days.

Edited April 27, 2011 by Ross

[Bassassin]

[quote name='Ross' post='1212421' date='Apr 27 2011, 11:00 AM']Wrong, everyone knows you go to a graveyard miles away from your home in the dead of night, dig a predug grave slightly deeper. Then bury the body, cover with soil to bring to it's original height.
They'll put a coffin on top, bury that, and no one will ever find it.

Pity cremation is becoming so fashionable these days.[/quote]
I suppose so, but one has to adapt to changing social circumstances. That's a sound method right enough, but what with the proliferation of CCTV these days you're really a lot better off sticking to somewhere less public - your back yard, or if you're lucky enough, your own basement. And the question of course was [i]rotting[/i] bodies - unfortunately with no embalming or other preparation, your stiff-under-a-coffin is going to whiff pretty bad after a few weeks and the visiting mourners of the 'host' are going to start asking awkward questions.

I think your method has merit, but I'll stick with my 6 foot of impermeable concrete - well, until I run out of space downstairs.

J.

[Ross]

Well you could realistically dissolve a lot of the meat in acid then bury whats left and the decomposition is likely to be less. CCTV will obviously need a workaround mind you, although I'm sure graveyards don't have wide coverage, you'd first take a stroll in the daytime to check out the cctv and security lighting situation til you find a suitable grave. Or if you didn't want to do acid, stick the body in a deep freeze until you found a suitable burial site.
How about this, use a woodchipper to shred the corpse into a paste and then flush it down the toilet.

And theres always this guys method:


Disposing of a body is easy enough if you just think logically, so many murderers bury a body in a public place with road access closeby and I think "are you seriously f***ing retarded?" not that I can speak from experience but if I was an axe murderer I'd certainly do a better job at covering my tracks.

Edited April 28, 2011 by Ross