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Wibbly Spike


BobVbass
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hello....

so...last night....through no fault of mine.....or bass abuse by me.....or silliness on my part at all.....my spike seems to have been bent by the magic bass gremlins (well that's what I told my wife anyway)

I've adjusted it back in to shape with my precision hammering implement but it strikes me that it's a bit weedy anyway - 7mm diameter - any idea where I can get a bob proof one of maybe 10mm or a bit bigger? or just some steel rod? Would Carbon fibre be any good?

There's loads of room in the spike holder thingy to take a larger endpin....

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Hi Bob. Sorry to hear of your wibbly spike.

Personally I'd highly recommend a Manson Superspike. A lot of bassists (and cellists) I know use them. They're strong, adaptable, and built to your specs. Check out [url="http://www.superspikes.co.uk/"]www.superspikes.co.uk[/url]

I've used one for years and years now and it's still almost as sharp as the day it arrived.

Hope this helps.

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If you enlarge the hole to tae a larger diameter spike, you reduce the number of threads for the retaining screw to engage in. The screw threads are usually more of a weak pont than the spike - so I'd tend to leave well alone.... I'd tend to replace the spike with solid stainless steel bar.

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[quote name='fonzoooroo' post='1210653' date='Apr 25 2011, 09:35 AM']If you enlarge the hole to tae a larger diameter spike, you reduce the number of threads for the retaining screw to engage in. The screw threads are usually more of a weak pont than the spike - so I'd tend to leave well alone.... I'd tend to replace the spike with solid stainless steel bar.[/quote]

This is an interesting answer, as I've never known of an endpin screw going at all. I suspect this is only the case with an all-wooden ferrule on the block. If your spike-hole has a metal collar then this shouldn't be an issue, as the screw binds into this rather than the wood. I've had a couple of basses with a simple bar as a spike and found that this is what causes the spike to slip into the instrument - a proper endpin should have reamed 'notches' in it to stop it slipping - if it has, then the screw shouldn't have to be done up tight anyway. My current bass had a 7mm diameter spike when I got it, and now has a 10mm Manson superspike. The screw hasn't slipped once. I suspect fonzoooroo was rather unlucky to have this happen. Incidentally, a properly nothced spike not only reduces the amount of work that the screw threads have to do, but also tends to eliminate any possibility of endpin-rattle.

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[quote name='Mat Heighway' post='1210888' date='Apr 25 2011, 02:13 PM']This is an interesting answer, as I've never known of an endpin screw going at all. I suspect this is only the case with an all-wooden ferrule on the block. If your spike-hole has a metal collar then this shouldn't be an issue, as the screw binds into this rather than the wood. I've had a couple of basses with a simple bar as a spike and found that this is what causes the spike to slip into the instrument - a proper endpin should have reamed 'notches' in it to stop it slipping - if it has, then the screw shouldn't have to be done up tight anyway. My current bass had a 7mm diameter spike when I got it, and now has a 10mm Manson superspike. The screw hasn't slipped once. I suspect fonzoooroo was rather unlucky to have this happen. Incidentally, a properly nothced spike not only reduces the amount of work that the screw threads have to do, but also tends to eliminate any possibility of endpin-rattle.[/quote]
In truth my comment was based more on cello experience than bass, but the design's the same. And you'd be surprised what horrible grades of metal, and poorly toleranced threads are out there on endpins! I've replaced a few for friends and customers over the years...

+1 on the notched spike comment though. It reduces the need to excessively tighten the threads by putting the thumb screw into shear.

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