Drilling neck/ bridge holes.

[Ross]

Well, I've bought a body off ebay, it's got all the routing and that done but no holes.
So my question is, how do I decide where to put the bridge so the strings will line up properly with the pickups (fender bridge) and also, best way to mark out the neck holes and ensure that it's a straight join?

Borrowing a hand drill from a mate, I don't have the luxury of a drill press. Any way to ensure the holes will be straight?

Edit: After a few posts it appears I may need a hand, anyone in Plymouth able to help me out with a loan of a drill press in exchange for a few beers or something?

Edited April 28, 2011 by Ross

[KiOgon]

[quote name='Ross' post='1213605' date='Apr 28 2011, 10:34 AM']Well, I've bought a body off ebay, it's got all the routing and that done but no holes.
So my question is, how do I decide where to put the bridge so the strings will line up properly with the pickups (fender bridge) and also, best way to mark out the neck holes and ensure that it's a straight join?

Borrowing a hand drill from a mate, I don't have the luxury of a drill press. Any way to ensure the holes will be straight?[/quote]

Not wishing to offend but - if you're asking questions like that perhaps in the long run it would be better to get someone with a bit more experience to do the tricky bits.

I'd rather see you with a finished job you're pleased with than risk a lot of expensive parts not put together right.

Cheerz, John - no offence intended.

[Beedster]

[quote name='KiOgon' post='1213613' date='Apr 28 2011, 10:46 AM']Not wishing to offend but - if you're asking questions like that perhaps in the long run it would be better to get someone with a bit more experience to do the tricky bits.

I'd rather see you with a finished job you're pleased with than risk a lot of expensive parts not put together right.

Cheerz, John - no offence intended.[/quote]

+1, having tried to drill holes in a body - and having made a complete cock-up of it - I can also recommend spending a few quid on getting it done properly. Alternatively, you could change the title of the thread to "Can anyone on here drill neck and bridge holes for me?" and you'll doubtless find a helpful BCer near you willing to help (check their posts first to make sure they're not a complete novice!).

Good luck

C

[neepheid]

Seriously - find someone with a drill press - you'll struggle to get the holes straight doing it freehand.

[Ross]

Main idea of this project is to learn how to do these things though, hence the asking.
Maybe I'll see if someone on here can give me a hand, title changed.

[neepheid]

[quote name='Ross' post='1213641' date='Apr 28 2011, 11:14 AM']Main idea of this project is to learn how to do these things though, hence the asking.
Maybe I'll see if someone on here can give me a hand, title changed.[/quote]

I just said find someone with a drill press, I didn't say get them to do it for you

[Ross]

I don't want them to do it for me neccessarily, maybe loan me the drill/ show me the proper way to do it?

Seems daft to invest in a pillar drill to drill these few holes, if I can't find a kind person to loan me one what about using a spirit level, taping the bit to show where I stop drilling, and hoping for the best?

Edited April 28, 2011 by Ross

[neepheid]

[quote name='Ross' post='1213656' date='Apr 28 2011, 11:26 AM']I don't want them to do it for me neccessarily, maybe loan me the drill/ show me the proper way to do it?

Seems daft to invest in a pillar drill to drill these few holes, if I can't find a kind person to loan me one what about using a spirit level, taping the bit to show where I stop drilling, and [b]hoping for the best?[/b][/quote]

To answer your original question ("Any way to ensure the holes will be straight?") - with all the best will in the world, you can't stay 100% still. If you're willing to accept your place as the weak link in this setup and prepared to make mistakes and deal with the consequences (which basically involve drilling out wrong holes to the size of whatever (hardwood) dowel you have, filling with dowel and trimming flush) then go for it.

As far as the bridge positioning goes this is how I understand it (no doubt someone will be along to correct me if I've got this wrong). Fit the neck first. Only once the neck is fitted will you be able to determine the correct position for the bridge relative to the scale length. Assuming you're going for a standard 34" scale then you measure back 34" from the edge of the nut nearest the fingerboard (or 17" back from the 12th fret) and mark that. Adjust the bridge so that the G saddle is as far forward as the adjustment screw allows safely, then wind it back a small amount (let's say leave it at 90-95% of its full forward travel to allow for possible oops). The point where the string would go over the G saddle should be at the 34" mark you made. All the other saddles will be further back when you adjust for intonation. For sideways positioning, I would refer you to a trick I've seen my mate Rich use - run a length of sewing thread through the E and G nut slots (anchor it at the headstock with blu-tac or loop it through a tuner hole and tie a knot or something) then use these threads to show were the E and G saddles on the bridge ought to be.

[Ross]

Update: I have a lead, my mates reckons his dad has one I can borrow, going to investigate for me tomorrow.

Cheers for the guidance, what about neck holes? How do I get those right? (Also need to drill holes in the neck baring in mind)

[BigRedX]

Are you using a neck plate? If so the position of the holes will be determined by that.

Don't forget to clamp some waste wood on the reverse so you don't splinter the wood in the neck pocket as the drill comes through.

[neepheid]

[quote name='Ross' post='1213686' date='Apr 28 2011, 11:59 AM']Update: I have a lead, my mates reckons his dad has one I can borrow, going to investigate for me tomorrow.

Cheers for the guidance, what about neck holes? How do I get those right? (Also need to drill holes in the neck baring in mind)[/quote]

Is this all Fender style stuff? If so, use the neck plate as a guide. Place the neck plate where it ought to go, mark the holes on the body with that. MAKE SURE YOU PUT SOME SCRAP WOOD IN THE NECK POCKET IF YOU'RE DRILLING THROUGH FROM THE BACK OR PUT SOME SCRAP WOOD UNDER THE BODY IF YOU'RE DRILLING INTO THE NECK POCKET FIRST. I wrote that in caps for a reason. You could get some horrible splintering when the bit breaks through if you don't give it something to drill into. Drill the holes.

Once you have the holes in the body, put the neck in the pocket and put a neck screw into each hole in turn until it makes a mark on the neck heel, hence marking the location for drilling the neck. Be careful of the radius of the neck when drilling, it'll make it want to rock slightly. MARK THE DEPTH CAREFULLY on the drill bit with something obvious and visible like insulation tape - you don't want to drill right through!

Choose your drill bit size carefully - test by drilling into some scrap wood and screwing the neck screws into that. You want it tight, but not so tight that you risk chewing the head when you screw it in, or worse splitting the wood when trying to force a screw into a too small hole. Obviously you don't want it to be too big either, or the screw won't bite!

Good luck