Strings

[Ben Jamin]

So yesterday the D'Addario Pro Steels I ordered for my new five-string $$ Corvette (acquired in a trade with Shawman by the way, top guy) arrived. My friend had recommended them as they sound absolutely ace on his USA Std. Jazz

Anyway, I did the silly thing and re-strung them from the G up, only to find when it came to the B the string was too obese at the end to fit the Warwick's crazy two-piece bridge. I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem/can recommend any strings that fit? The previous strings had the little thread parts at either end hence why they had no problem.

Also is it possible to return the D'Addarios for a new set from Stringsdirect? I figure it's a bit of a long shot because I've already trimmed the other four?

Cheers!

[chrismuzz]

I had this problem with an old bass before. Don't know a lot about the Warwick bridges, so this might not help at all... but what I did was squeeze the strings really hard with a pair of pliers to make the bit that goes through the bridge thinner, and therefore fit! I have no idea if this knackers the strings at all, as it was a long time ago that I did this

[Ou7shined]

Only contemplate the above if you are not worried about the tone, longevity or the integrity of your strings. If none of that bothers you then yeah dude go for it.

[icastle]

[quote name='Ben Jamin' post='1214506' date='Apr 29 2011, 07:39 AM']Also is it possible to return the D'Addarios for a new set from Stringsdirect? I figure it's a bit of a long shot because I've already trimmed the other four?[/quote]

Absolutely no chance I'd imagine.

Your best bet would be to pop down to your local music shop and see what single B strings they have in stock that have tapered windings at the ball end.

[Mr. Foxen]

+1 on squeeze with pliers method, just keep it to a minimum and you should be fine, there is no flexing there so weakening stuff shouldn't be an issue until you start squeezing the core. I had to get my giant set taperwound to fit through bridges.

[Ben Jamin]

Thanks for all the replies! Sorry for the late response I've been out and about and away from computers for a while! I tried the pliers method but those D'Addarios are SOLID.

I thinned them out a bit but they're still just little wide at the waist, so at the moment I've got the old (taperwound) B-string in still. I've had a look at a few taperwound sets but I'm not really a big fan of the sound.

After a quick Google it's apparent a few people have filed their bridges to fit the B, which looks to be a better long term solution to me! Sound like a good idea?

Edited May 5, 2011 by Ben Jamin

[Ross]

If you know what you're doing and have the proper tools for the job.
My next thought would be to use a mallet and blunt masonry chisel with as little force as you can get away with to compress the string in at the end.

[icastle]

[quote name='Ross' post='1222046' date='May 6 2011, 10:55 AM']If you know what you're doing and have the proper tools for the job.
My next thought would be to use a mallet and blunt masonry chisel with as little force as you can get away with to compress the string in at the end.[/quote]

I suspect that as you hit one side of the string to compress it, it'll just spread in the opposite direction.

[Ross]

[quote name='icastle' post='1222092' date='May 6 2011, 11:35 AM']I suspect that as you hit one side of the string to compress it, it'll just spread in the opposite direction.[/quote]
Next thought of cider drinker engineering, pliers in a vice, use the vice to put additional force on them and hope they don't snap.

[icastle]

[quote name='Ross' post='1222195' date='May 6 2011, 01:40 PM']Next thought of cider drinker engineering, pliers in a vice, use the vice to put additional force on them and hope they don't snap.[/quote]

Apart from impact speed, I think that'll be no different from hitting it with a bolster chisel - the metal will just spread in the direction that force isn't applied to it.

If using a different string type isn't an option, I reckon the best bet would be to very gently widen the hole with a dremel type tool and an appropriate sized drill bit - you should be safe to remove a mm without any adverse effect.