CIJ Marcus Miller 4 with a schaller 3D4.....

[desmondpot]

Hey all.

I don't know if this a common problem, but the action on my MM with a BadassII fitted was too high for my tastes. Far too high.

Rather than using the Micro-tilt (I prefer full contact at the neck pocket) or filing the saddles to knubs I opted for a a new bridge, in this case a Schaller 3D4 and the results are spot on. It allows for a nice low action (which the quality of the neck and fretwork allow), adds the ability to adjust string spacing and provides a little more definition to the sound overall.

Looks better than a Badass too.


Also, it doesn't have the word "ass" written on it.


Edit: pics.........

[attachment=78995:DSCF0922.JPG] [attachment=78994:DSCF0917.JPG] [attachment=78997:DSCF0928.JPG] [attachment=78996:DSCF0925_cr.jpg]


The bridge casting follows a similar radius to the neck and with all the saddles very slightly lifted from the base I'm getting a far more comfortable action than with the badass. It plays very, very well.

Edited May 4, 2011 by desmondpot

[RichF]

can you post a pic of it fitted? I have an MM and always interested in potential improvements.

Edited May 3, 2011 by RichF

[desmondpot]

[quote name='RichF' post='1219334' date='May 3 2011, 11:10 PM']can you post a pic of it fitted? I have an MM and always interested in potential improvements.[/quote]

Sure thing. I'll sort that out tomorrow.

[desmondpot]

[quote name='RichF' post='1219334' date='May 3 2011, 11:10 PM']can you post a pic of it fitted? I have an MM and always interested in potential improvements.[/quote]

done.

[mojobass]

hmmm i like that!! ive got a MM and thought similar about getting the action lower but unable to on the badass! how much are those 3D's?

[desmondpot]

£50 ish. $100+ in the states (nice that we're cheaper for a change, eh).

They do a black one too. Reckon that'd look good.

[mojobass]

i'm guessing the csrew holes are different though? so new ones need to be drilled? is that right?

[desmondpot]

[quote name='mojobass' post='1219787' date='May 4 2011, 12:54 PM']i'm guessing the csrew holes are different though? so new ones need to be drilled? is that right?[/quote]

Yup. That's right. The center screw uses the existing hole. The two that need drilling fall nicely between the existing holes.

3mm bit.

edit: .......or you could use the correct way of fitting to a Fender which is this:

"what they have is 3 main screwholes & 2 "pilot" holes about 6mm or so in front of the main ones. The pilot holes align with 2 of the originals and allow you to accurately mark & drill for the new ones."

Thanks Mr Bassasin.

Edited May 8, 2011 by desmondpot

[RichF]

looks good. Thanks for pics.

[Ross]

[quote]Also, it doesn't have the word "ass" written on it. laugh.gif[/quote]
But how will I know which end of the bass I'm looking at?

Looks gorgeous, I'm really tempted by one of these myself now.

[desmondpot]

"But how will I know which end of the bass I'm looking at? "

Don't worry. "Schaller" is German for "Bottom".


"Looks gorgeous, I'm really tempted by one of these myself now."


That extra couple of mil on the action does wonders for the playability. Biiiig difference.

Now for the pre-amp.........................

Edited May 5, 2011 by desmondpot

[desmondpot]

"Don't worry. "Schaller" is German for "Bottom". "

........or maybe it's "elbow", I'm not sure. I never could tell the difference.

[Bassassin]

[quote name='desmondpot' post='1219814' date='May 4 2011, 01:10 PM']Yup. That's right. The center screw uses the existing hole. The two that need drilling fall nicely between the existing holes.

3mm bit.[/quote]

Sorry - that's not right unless the 3D design's been modified recently, which I doubt. I've fitted Schallers to 3 of my Fender-style basses, what they have is 3 main screwholes & 2 "pilot" holes about 6mm or so in front of the main ones. The pilot holes align with 2 of the originals and allow you to accurately mark & drill for the new ones. I suspect if you just used the original holes you wouldn't have the saddle travel to get the intonation right.

That said, fitting a 3D is dead easy, and they're better-made, more versatile, more compact, better looking, lighter & cheaper than a FatAss II. No-brainer as far as I'm concerned!

Jon.

[desmondpot]

[quote name='Bassassin' post='1223037' date='May 7 2011, 11:54 AM']Sorry - that's not right unless the 3D design's been modified recently, which I doubt. I've fitted Schallers to 3 of my Fender-style basses, what they have is 3 main screwholes & 2 "pilot" holes about 6mm or so in front of the main ones. The pilot holes align with 2 of the originals and allow you to accurately mark & drill for the new ones. I suspect if you just used the original holes you wouldn't have the saddle travel to get the intonation right.

That said, fitting a 3D is dead easy, and they're better-made, more versatile, more compact, better looking, lighter & cheaper than a FatAss II. No-brainer as far as I'm concerned!

Jon.[/quote]

Bugger, you're right. I'll try and find some offical fitting instructions to post here. Tech drawings are here:

[url="http://bass-pickups.com/download/C1ffcfe16X12a3cdeff9eX1d97/BassSteg_3D_4.pdf?ITServ=CY5fbf08e4X12fccaf4dd6XY1373"]http://bass-pickups.com/download/C1ffcfe16...fccaf4dd6XY1373[/url]


I've fitted a couple of these on fresh-builds and tackled this one the same way without considering the guide screw holes.

As it is, there's no problem with intonation which is set correctly, leaving a good 8mm backward travel on the E-sting.