Happy Jack Posted January 25, 2013 Author Share Posted January 25, 2013 Go to Studiospares or similar and search for attenuators ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Apple Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 Oh, No! Epic fail on the spell checker! Although I would think the OBT is a very value driven amp due to it's keen price and remarkable popularity with bass players all over the UK.. Pick one up today on our deli counter. Buy two and get half a pound of Baloney FREE! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chest Rockwell Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 [quote name='jackers' timestamp='1359131477' post='1950446'] stop horsing around guys (already got my coat) vaguely on topic: what do people use to tame the DI signal on the OTB? [/quote] [quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1359132138' post='1950469'] Go to Studiospares or similar and search for attenuators ... [/quote] Im gonna have to do this as once again, even with new tubes, the soundguy was complaining about 'way too hot'. strangely i turned the bloody thing nearly off and he was till going 'lower'. It does my head right in!! he mic'd it then (dunno why this is anathema to soundmen. 6 strings are mic'd no problem, bass is always a fuss!). unfortunately i dont know (or care to know) the technicalities to argue the toss. the guy was cool though, the sound was great and we had a good time. ...but i really wish I could just plug and play in a live gig like I can in practice!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KK Jale Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 The Studiospares -30dB works for me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chest Rockwell Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 cool, cheers KK, I'l look into it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
negativefx Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 Hi all, I just talked with the US-based Orange Tech Support guy about the DI issue. He said that early models 'slipped' out of the factory with hot DI out and it has since been resolved in later production runs. He also said that you can get a warranty repair done to fix it on older builds -or- they will gladly provide the instructions to mod the amp yourself as it is an easy fix if you know how to solder. He also said that if you're just looking for clean headroom, the AT7's will give you more control, but you can still dial in the same headroom by being more judicious with gain knob. Hope this helps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chest Rockwell Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 sounds interesting. I dunno if that applies in the UK, anyone braver than me wanna investigate? We played a gig on Weds where we had to supply our entire backline (opening local band on one date of Grand Magus UK tour) so I used my Barefaced Compact and the Terror. I finally had a chance to try the Studiospares -30dB... and the sound guy was very happy!! HURRAH!!! there was still some horrific reverb on the snare and some sonic wash coming from the monitors which was like water torture, but aye, apart from that, all good! why is the sound always sh*tty eh? if it ain't one thing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacqueslemac Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 A question that - hopefully - hasn't got anything to do with valves, but one of you more technically-minded bods may be able to help me. Last night my amp stopped working. The little orange light went out and the fan stopped turning. I've changed the fuse that's located by the input for the kettle lead and I've changed the plug fuse but there's no power getting to the amp. What do I look at next, please? Could it be something to do with the valves and, if so, how can I check if they've blown? A visual inspection suggests they're both fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkG3 Posted May 5, 2013 Share Posted May 5, 2013 I've just ordered some German made RFT ECC81/12AT7 valves! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkG3 Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 Fitted within 10 minutes, only had a few tight screws to get past and that was it, covers off, old valves out, lined the new valves up(which took a few attempts which bent a few of the connectors a little but just bent them back) then tightened everything back together again. It really was easy so anyone thinking about it who isn't sure just go for it! I'll find out more tomorrow when I test it at my band practice at higher volumes but at home I can actually have 12oclock on the gain without it being really dirty! But 3oclock is when it starts getting filthy. I didn't even use the guide.......ok I just remembered it without looking thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkG3 Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 (edited) So band practice was good, my tone was easily the best I've heard it. Classic clanky pbass IMO. The valves were at the stage of just breaking up which I like to give it some beef Treble - 12 o'clock Mid - 3 o'clock Bass - 10 o'clock Gain - 12 o'clock I also swapped the pickups back to the originals so its a mixture of things but changing the valves has definitely cleaned things up a bit and has more definition. So I'm pleased and would recommend the valve swap! Edited May 10, 2013 by OBT1000_S12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassTractor Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 As said many a time, this thread is bloody fantastic. It deserves a bump, folks. Anyone know of or tried the Ruby Tubes 12AX7? They're very expensive, and reportedly both have low gain and a full, robust timbre. Also, they are hand picked! Yes, no less. I guess a 15 year old girl somewhere in China or wherever looks at the paper box, and starts contemplating which valve to pick for that exact box. Brings a tear to my eye. :-D b, b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbyrne Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 12AX7s have the highest gain, then 5751, 12AT7s and 12AY7s. I have a 5751 in my Hartke LH500 & it really sound good to my ear. For all manner of info on valves (tubes) in general, go here: http://www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com/index2.html G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassTractor Posted July 21, 2013 Share Posted July 21, 2013 [quote name='geoffbyrne' timestamp='1374358494' post='2148103'] 12AX7s have the highest gain, then 5751, 12AT7s and 12AY7s. [/quote] Yeah, I know, but Ruby Tubes themselves make that claim, and different AXs are different. So I feel they probably mean that these are low gain as far as AXs go. b, b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davehux Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 Just swapped the standard JJ ECC83's for a pair of JJ ECC81's and now I have an amp with a usable gain control, not just an on/off switch Got them from good old eBay. Perfect condition and next day delivery http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230570308734 Literally a 5 minute job to do. Undo 10 screws. Remove the valve covers. Wiggle out the old valves. Reverse the procedure. No techie skills needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeh Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 [quote name='davehux' timestamp='1376749907' post='2178672'] Just swapped the standard JJ ECC83's for a pair of JJ ECC81's and now I have an amp with a usable gain control, not just an on/off switch Got them from good old eBay. Perfect condition and next day delivery [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230570308734"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230570308734[/url] Literally a 5 minute job to do. Undo 10 screws. Remove the valve covers. Wiggle out the old valves. Reverse the procedure. No techie skills needed. [/quote] And I've just done the same, I was fairly happy with the amp the way its was, but it did break up about 11 o'clock or even less. Now with the new preamp valves I can get it round to quarter past without any break up, and its a lovely smooth gain. The amp is now very punchy, cant wait to try it with the band tomorrow night now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jazzneck Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 Great stuff Jack. I've just bought a TB500H and am considering this mod. Has anyone tried 12AU7s. My thinking is that they may be a halfway house between the 12AX7 and the 12AT7. Then again I'm probably wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cameltoe Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 I did the mod with some Philips ECC81's, but the amp didn't have the same punch or presence, even with the gain cranked. Kept it like that for well over a year, but always felt there was something lacking so have gone back to ECC83's. I've fitted EHX valves and they sound great! Very grindy, a lot clearer sounding than stock. The stock valves are very woolly. I also tried Tung Sol which are very dark and not the clearest. Very happy with the EHX this far however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happy Jack Posted February 23, 2016 Author Share Posted February 23, 2016 A piece of information that has just popped up on my radar screen, worth adding to this long-running thread: http://basschat.co.uk/topic/279683-heads-that-dont-need-a-speaker-load/page__pid__2986345#entry2986345 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tee Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 Just revisiting this old thread. Still have the 12AT7s in, but hadn't realised that they draw more current than 12AX7s. I'm wondering if this is safe in the long run? I can't remember if Orange allowed for different preamp valves and subsequent current draws through the resistors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrenochrome Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 Again, sorry to bring this back up. I gigged my new (to me) rig on Saturday - an OTB into a TC Electronics K212. Fantastic light, compact and loud rig.The gain was a bit uncontrollable and the dirty sound was quite bass heavy. The soundman struggled with the hot DI. I use a distorted sound but need it to be controllable and a bit more fizzy and less woolly. Any ideas for a valve swap? How about 5751 JJ valves? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vmaxblues Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 Great tutorial, just did this, many thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassmachine2112 Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 Hiho the early OTB had cheap valves and hot DI. Later ones had JJ ECC83s valves and sorted DO which is the one I have. The trick is the EQ Bass-9oclock.middle-12oclock.treble-12oclock.There is a lot of bass on these heads so keep it in from Valves-early models had cheap valves and a hot DO,later ones like mine had JJECC83s valves and sorted DI.I have tried Mullard valves but returned to the standard valves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul S Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 Related topic - I have re-valved mine and have the Di attenuator but now find the internal casing vibrates. I've taken it off and run a bead of silicone along the seams but it still happens a bit. Anyone else had this and found an easy fix? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keatz Posted May 4, 2018 Share Posted May 4, 2018 Hi, very interested in hearing these original mp3 comparison files. Anyone know where I can find them? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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