Whatch out for this and that!

[Bloc Riff Nut]

I'll be replacing a broken Standby/On switch on my Trace V6 next week and was thinking whilst I'm in there I could clean it up and take some photos.
Are there any Do's and Don't's that I should be aware of like;-Bleed the capacitors first or you might DIE ?
Or should I just let an expert do it?

[Mr. Foxen]

Capacitors drain on their own after a while, so leave it off and you are good to go after a day or so, the resistors bridging the end are for that. Don't lick anything in there or clean it with soapy water are the main things. Take a bunch of photos, clean off any cobwebs and stuff that is bridging components, clean contacts with alcohol or similar. Avoid messy solder joints with poking out bits. Lubricate the screw/bolt holes for next time you have it apart, it gets habit forming. Post the pics in the amp guts thread.

[Bloc Riff Nut]

Cheers Mr.Fox, I'll certainly post the guts pictures and I've got a multimeter to check the capacitors before I start. Can't wait to see what it looks like inside there.

[umph]

[quote name='Bloc Riff Nut' post='1231704' date='May 15 2011, 10:18 AM']Cheers Mr.Fox, I'll certainly post the guts pictures and I've got a multimeter to check the capacitors before I start. Can't wait to see what it looks like inside there.[/quote]
Haha it's a big pcb, with a bit of PTP on the octal bases. Not sure i got any pictures of your amp. All the essentially stuff had been done when i had it apart at mr chambos.

Few things i'd always recomend doing though, is give the valve bases a clean, clean the pots while its open and clean all the jacks.

[icastle]

No need to shunt the smoothing caps - unless the amp is faulty they'll be cleared down when the power is switched off.

To clean the insides out I just use a 1" paintbrush and a vacuum cleaner hose.

Layout any parts you remove in seperate piles and in a logical order - so casing screws go in one pile, pcb mounting screws in another and so on.

A human has assembled the unit on a production line so if something is difficult to get out don't be tempted to force it - you're taking it apart wrong if you need to crowbar stuff out.

Take a look at the connection method your switch is using and make sure the connection method you use on the replacement is as good as the original method.

Draw a little diagram of which wires go to which terminals on the switch before you take it out - use little bits of numbered tape if the wires are all the same colour.

Once you've finished, check you've connected it all up correctly, go grab a coffee and then check again before replacing the casing and switching it on.

[Bloc Riff Nut]

[quote name='umph' post='1231755' date='May 15 2011, 10:01 AM']Haha it's a big pcb, with a bit of PTP on the octal bases. Not sure i got any pictures of your amp. All the essentially stuff had been done when i had it apart at mr chambos.

Few things i'd always recomend doing though, is give the valve bases a clean, clean the pots while its open and clean all the jacks.[/quote]
Hi Michael,
You of course, know what it looks like. I'm very happy with the amp by the way. What do you suggest using to clean the valve bases pots and such like.

[Bloc Riff Nut]

[quote name='icastle' post='1231773' date='May 15 2011, 10:14 AM']No need to shunt the smoothing caps - unless the amp is faulty they'll be cleared down when the power is switched off.

To clean the insides out I just use a 1" paintbrush and a vacuum cleaner hose.

Layout any parts you remove in seperate piles and in a logical order - so casing screws go in one pile, pcb mounting screws in another and so on.

A human has assembled the unit on a production line so if something is difficult to get out don't be tempted to force it - you're taking it apart wrong if you need to crowbar stuff out.

Take a look at the connection method your switch is using and make sure the connection method you use on the replacement is as good as the original method.

Draw a little diagram of which wires go to which terminals on the switch before you take it out - use little bits of numbered tape if the wires are all the same colour.

Once you've finished, check you've connected it all up correctly, go grab a coffee and then check again before replacing the casing and switching it on.[/quote]

I'm replacing the original switch with the exact same switch from BritishAudio but I'll take a photo of the connections with my phone before beginning.
My memory is terrible with that sort of thing.

[umph]

[quote name='Bloc Riff Nut' post='1232071' date='May 15 2011, 03:06 PM']I'm replacing the original switch with the exact same switch from BritishAudio but I'll take a photo of the connections with my phone before beginning.
My memory is terrible with that sort of thing. [/quote]

i've just checked and i have some pictures if you need them! I cleaned all the valve bases etc. so it doesn't really need doing but its good practice, i normally use a non lubricated version of wd40 ie. a switch cleaner. Spray it in the base and pull the valve in and out a few times to clean all the dirt off.

[Bloc Riff Nut]

[quote name='umph' post='1232079' date='May 15 2011, 02:13 PM']i've just checked and i have some pictures if you need them! I cleaned all the valve bases etc. so it doesn't really need doing but its good practice, i normally use a non lubricated version of wd40 ie. a switch cleaner. Spray it in the base and pull the valve in and out a few times to clean all the dirt off.[/quote]
It would be great to see a few photos if it isn't too much trouble.

[Fitz666]

[quote name='icastle' post='1231773' date='May 15 2011, 11:14 AM']Once you've finished, check you've connected it all up correctly, go grab a coffee and then check again before replacing the casing and switching it on.[/quote]

Best advice I have heard in a long time, can be used for anything.