mentalextra Posted June 4, 2011 Share Posted June 4, 2011 I am looking at replacing the bridge on my j bass copy. How do I select the appropriate position if my current locating holes dont line up. Can I allow for any slight inaccuracies with the built in adjustment? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mart Posted June 4, 2011 Share Posted June 4, 2011 (edited) I had to move the bridge on a Rockbass because the strings were out of line with the neck. I put up a thread on the Warwick forum describing what I did: this is where I started talking about the bridge: [url="http://forum.warwick.de/17-rockbass/13065-great-rockbass-renovation-project.html#post201247"]http://forum.warwick.de/17-rockbass/13065-...html#post201247[/url] I'm sure there are others way of doing this, and probably better ones - I was making it up as I went along! Edited June 4, 2011 by mart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mentalextra Posted June 4, 2011 Author Share Posted June 4, 2011 [quote name='mart' post='1256816' date='Jun 4 2011, 08:54 PM']I had to move the bridge on a Rockbass because the strings were out of line with the neck. I put up a thread on the Warwick forum describing what I did: this is where I started talking about the bridge: [url="http://forum.warwick.de/17-rockbass/13065-great-rockbass-renovation-project.html#post201247"]http://forum.warwick.de/17-rockbass/13065-...html#post201247[/url] I'm sure there are others way of doing this, and probably better ones - I was making it up as I went along! [/quote] Great, thanks. It makes interesting reading. My bridge is obviously in the correct position and I am changing it to upgrade/improve the worn out original. I like the way you used the strings to set the rearward position. How did you set their length accurately when you have to undo them to get the bridge off? Also, could I mark the position of the ends of the strings now and use that as a reference point for the new bridge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LawrenceH Posted June 4, 2011 Share Posted June 4, 2011 The front/rear placement is not so critical since you will adjust the intonation anyway, as long as it's within the bridge saddle screw range. More important to get the bridge centred reasonably accurately relative to the neck (and pickups). What replacement bridge are you thinking of using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mentalextra Posted June 5, 2011 Author Share Posted June 5, 2011 [quote name='LawrenceH' post='1257008' date='Jun 5 2011, 12:31 AM']The front/rear placement is not so critical since you will adjust the intonation anyway, as long as it's within the bridge saddle screw range. More important to get the bridge centred reasonably accurately relative to the neck (and pickups). What replacement bridge are you thinking of using?[/quote] Something more susbtantial than the "B&Q" design I have at the moment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mart Posted June 5, 2011 Share Posted June 5, 2011 (edited) [quote name='LawrenceH' post='1257008' date='Jun 5 2011, 12:31 AM']The front/rear placement is not so critical since you will adjust the intonation anyway, as long as it's within the bridge saddle screw range. ...[/quote] This is right, so you have some margin for error. If you've got the bass perfectly set up at the moment (ok action, and correct intonation), then you should be able to use the position of where the saddles are now to show where to put the new bridge, just like you say. I'd stick a couple of bits of masking tape on - one each side of the bridge - and put a pen mark level with the E saddle on the tape on that side and a mark level with the G saddle on the other bit of tape. Then when you swap bridges you can line the new one up by these bits of tape. Before you do this, you should probably also tweak the intonation screws on the new bridge so that each saddle has roughly the same amount of forward/backward space as on your current bridge. Edited June 5, 2011 by mart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mentalextra Posted June 5, 2011 Author Share Posted June 5, 2011 [quote name='mart' post='1257140' date='Jun 5 2011, 09:54 AM']This is right, so you have some margin for error. If you've got the bass perfectly set up at the moment (ok action, and correct intonation), then you should be able to use the position of where the saddles are now to show where to put the new bridge, just like you say. I'd stick a couple of bits of masking tape on - one each side of the bridge - and put a pen mark level with the E saddle on the tape on that side and a mark level with the G saddle on the other bit of tape. Then when you swap bridges you can line the new one up by these bits of tape. Before you do this, you should probably also tweak the intonation screws on the new bridge so that each saddle has roughly the same amount of forward/backward space as on your current bridge.[/quote] Thanks, good advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LawrenceH Posted June 5, 2011 Share Posted June 5, 2011 A badass 2 or a Gotoh 201 will use the same screw holes as a Fender 5-screw bridge. Some other bridges you can still use the centre screwhole for bridge placement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mentalextra Posted June 5, 2011 Author Share Posted June 5, 2011 (edited) [quote name='LawrenceH' post='1257398' date='Jun 5 2011, 03:39 PM']A badass 2 or a Gotoh 201 will use the same screw holes as a Fender 5-screw bridge. Some other bridges you can still use the centre screwhole for bridge placement.[/quote] [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BASS-GUITAR-BRIDGE-SADDLE-BLACK-INDIVIDUAL-STRING-NEW-/400143967852?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&hash=item5d2a70666c"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BASS-GUITAR-BRIDGE-S...=item5d2a70666c[/url] I've noticed on Ebay some individual bridge fittings, but I have never seen these on a bass? What are the pros and cons? Also I have seen a youtube video where a guy obtained the position for a new bridge by measure the scale length, from the nut to where the string touches the saddle; I believe 34" on my j bass. Anyone used this method? Cheers Edited June 19, 2011 by mentalextra Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mentalextra Posted June 19, 2011 Author Share Posted June 19, 2011 Also I have seen a youtube video where a guy obtained the position for a new bridge by measure the scale length, from the nut to where the string touches the saddle; I believe 34" on my j bass. Anyone used this method? [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oHtaJLYLBE"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oHtaJLYLBE[/url] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 yep, you can use the intonation adjustment screws to fine tune to 34" scale (or whatever scale length your neck is), so that gives you maybe an inch to play with on the final hole positions needed for screwing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mentalextra Posted June 21, 2011 Author Share Posted June 21, 2011 [quote name='Al Heeley' post='1276619' date='Jun 21 2011, 07:42 AM']yep, you can use the intonation adjustment screws to fine tune to 34" scale (or whatever scale length your neck is), so that gives you maybe an inch to play with on the final hole positions needed for screwing.[/quote] Ok, thats great. The new bridge has totally different mounting holes so that will help. Im just waiting for all my bits to arrive then I will take it apart. Give it a coat of paint and put it back together with the new bits. Thanks for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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