Cabs, tweeters, switches

[martindupras]

I thought someone might see a simple elegant solution for a small conundrum that I have.

I have just bought a TC RH450 which I intend to use for gigs. I also have a GK Fusion 550, which I really love. (I'm not about to replace it, I like having the luxury and the versatility of being able to swap amps on a whim.)

Here's the issue. I use a big Tech Soundsystem ND612S cab, which is a 6x12 with a tweeter. I've rewired it to make the best use of the Fusion 550, which sends the full range signal (500W amp) to the -1 and +1 lugs of the Speakon connector and the tweeter amp (50W amp) to the -2 and +2 lugs. That works great.

The RH450 is just a full range signal on -1 and +1, so it sounds a bit too dark without the tweeter.

It's just not practical to solder/desolder/resolder the tweeter all the time for obvious reasons.

Here's the question: is there a simple, elegant way to wire two speakon connectors in such a way that speakon 1 is connected to the crossover (therefore feeding both sets of speakers) and the second one speakon uses -1/+1 for the 12s and -2/+2 for the tweeter?

I'm happy to add one switch somewhere, but I just can't get my head around how to wired it up.

Cheers,

- martin

[Monckyman]

This shouldn`t be too difficult.
have a google for "Bi-amp/passive speaker switching"
Option A/, you need two speakon connectors on the panel, Input 1 is as you have it, input 2 is how you had it when it first arrived.Label the inputs!
Plug the relevant amp into the relevant speakon input.

Option B/ Fit a double pole double throw switch on the panel. Route the 1- and 1+ from the rear of the speakon socket to the switch in + and - lugs, and route the first out option to the internal crossover and the second (switched) option to just the driver.
The tweeter wiring can be left as you have it on -2/+2
This should then enable you to switch between a Bi-amp setup (switched)
or the passive setup (non switched).
Option 2 may be the safer way as there`s no chance of you sticking 500 watts into the tweeter.
HTH
MM

Edited June 8, 2011 by Monckyman

[Monckyman]

Make sense?
Any use?

[Mr. Foxen]

Bear in mind the switch needs to be able to deal with the full power that the amp can do, and since the cab is rated 1800w or something, that would be a beefy switch to not be a downgrade.

[stevie]

Couldn't you just use a second lead with terminals 1 and 2 bridged when you use the TC? I assume that the the tweeter still has the high pass passive crossover in place. As long as you mark each cable, that should do it - and it has the advantage of being simple to implement.

[martindupras]

Hi guys,

Thanks for the advice.

I think the simplest is Monckyman's suggestion of the two speakons connectors, one for bi-amp, the other for passive.

[url="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/6/screenshot20110608at215.png/"]http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/6/scr...10608at215.png/[/url]

That's right, isn't it?

(Sorry if it looks like a napkin doodle.)

- martin

[Monckyman]

Lo Martin, yes that looks about right, simply both systems in place and each with their own input NL4
Can`t see any real problem with putting the wrong amp in the wrong hole either.
If you patch your bi-amp into the passive circuit, you`ll simply get the bottom half of the amp (low end)through the Xover in the cab.
If you patch the full range into the bi-amp circuit you`ll just get the driver with no tweeter.
Both will sound the same, no top end!
label them properly ,maybe colour code the inputs AND the relevant cable with coloured pvc tape.
Always check before you turn the amp up, just to be wise.
Hope that makes sense.
MM

Edited June 8, 2011 by Monckyman

[martindupras]

[quote name='Monckyman' post='1262064' date='Jun 8 2011, 10:55 PM']Lo Martin, yes that looks about right, simply both systems in place and each with their own input NL4
Can`t see any real problem with putting the wrong amp in the wrong hole either.
If you patch your bi-amp into the passive circuit, you`ll simply get the bottom half of the amp (low end)through the Xover in the cab.
If you patch the full range into the bi-amp circuit you`ll just get the driver with no tweeter.
Both will sound the same, no top end!
label them properly ,maybe colour code the inputs AND the relevant cable with coloured pvc tape.
Always check before you turn the amp up, just to be wise.
Hope that makes sense.
MM[/quote]

Thanks. It makes perfect sense and it re-assures me.

As it stands, my 4-core speakon lead is white and I have labelled already the bi-amp socket with a big white socket. Unless someone with too much initiative decides to "help me" by plugging my gear, I think I'll be safe.

Thanks a lot!

- martin