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Moving gear around


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Good idea - I already had these bungees kicking around it is surprisingly solid when moving it around by holding on to the cabs.

Varnish is a good idea also - got tons of that kicking around!

I'll stick some coats on Tuesday after rehearsal on Monday - after all, it may break tomorrow when I try it out in anger! :)

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[quote name='Monz' post='1262233' date='Jun 9 2011, 06:31 AM']I bought a set of these (ebay item number 120712190969) and put them on my peavey 4x10 I can push the cab with one finger, very good quality wheels[/quote]

I bought a set of these, after seeing this post. Fantastic things, my cab now goes faster that most performance cars!

I may still have to lift the cab up stairs etc, but on the flats, especially on uneven concrete, where the stock 1 inch plastic castors had difficulty, now it just glides along.

Great recommendation Monz.

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[quote name='Lozz196' post='1275817' date='Jun 20 2011, 12:43 PM']I bought a set of these, after seeing this post. Fantastic things, my cab now goes faster that most performance cars!

I may still have to lift the cab up stairs etc, but on the flats, especially on uneven concrete, where the stock 1 inch plastic castors had difficulty, now it just glides along.

Great recommendation Monz.[/quote]

So with castors, do you screw them onto the side or the bottom (If on the bottom - how do you stop it moving around when you're playing)? Would it also work for a combo?

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Most castor sets have two wheels with brakes/locks on, stops the cab wandering about.
My ashdown 410 had castors directly bolted to it, through the bottom, not too neatly either.
The ampeg 410 I now have already had bolt holes for castors so I just bolted some on using them. Two have brakes on.
It does mean the bottom two drivers have to come out.
Alternatively.. make a wheel board that fits EXACTLY underneath your cab,use the proper Tees bolt fittings and once bolted on use an angle grinder to cut the bolts flush. Cut out the corners where the plastic corner protectors on your cab will go so it sits directly on the ply with no gap.
Paint it black and use a couple of heavy duty velcro strips to keep it there.
Bit more work but...
No holes in your boutique box innit?
If you sell the cab, keep the board, will prob fit most 410s whatever.
MM

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[quote name='Monckyman' post='1275981' date='Jun 20 2011, 03:30 PM']Most castor sets have two wheels with brakes/locks on, stops the cab wandering about.
My ashdown 410 had castors directly bolted to it, through the bottom, not too neatly either.
The ampeg 410 I now have already had bolt holes for castors so I just bolted some on using them. Two have brakes on.
It does mean the bottom two drivers have to come out.
Alternatively.. make a wheel board that fits EXACTLY underneath your cab,use the proper Tees bolt fittings and once bolted on use an angle grinder to cut the bolts flush. Cut out the corners where the plastic corner protectors on your cab will go so it sits directly on the ply with no gap.
Paint it black and use a couple of heavy duty velcro strips to keep it there.
Bit more work but...
No holes in your boutique box innit?
If you sell the cab, keep the board, will prob fit most 410s whatever.
MM[/quote]

That's why I built the board the width I did so it mimics the footprint of the cab. I tried it out at rehearsal the other night. As soon as I had moved my gear everyone else used it to move theirs!

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[quote name='lanark' post='1275864' date='Jun 20 2011, 01:33 PM']So with castors, do you screw them onto the side or the bottom (If on the bottom - how do you stop it moving around when you're playing)? Would it also work for a combo?[/quote]


With the stock castors there were already fittings for them, but with this set, I just had to get some wood-screws and washers. Was a 15 minute job to put them on. With this specific set, two of them have brakes on them, so can be locked to prevent the cab shifting about on stage. They would be fine on a combo.

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