My Big (Al) woes

[risingson]

[quote]or heaven forbid EBMM themselves(and start a sh*t storm.)[/quote]

It doesn't half piss me off that as a legitimate customer you would have to put up with any repercussions for simply posting up a technical query on the EBMM forum, especially when it's a bass you've spent a fortune on. Is it just me that thinks that is totally backwards?

My opinion is that if you have a problem with the switching system that you should bring it to the attention of the technical department of EB. If you have a faulty item then measures should be put in place to assure that you get the customer service you deserve.

Edited June 14, 2011 by risingson

[stingrayPete1977]

You don't have to go down that route at all, Take it back or ring strings and things. Why would anyone think posting on a forum even if it is run by EBMM would be the correct way of dealing with warranty issues? Everyone else that went to the shop or S&T found that the problems were dealt with quite quickly. If you bought a land rover that broke down would you post it on their forum as a way of fixing it or take it back to the dealer for repair?

[Musicman20]

They are a defensive company but they are very proud of their product. I've had numerous problems but now I've got perfect examples of what I ordered (apart from backorders I'm waiting on) I'm very very impressed.

It doesn't help the OP, but just ring S&T and Bass M ASAP...it'll get sorted.

They may have a single h you can swap it for.

It sound to me like something isn't right and may take a total strip of the electrics, who knows.

[sime17]

[quote name='farmer61' post='1268758' date='Jun 14 2011, 03:32 PM']No-one would take responsibility and I asked a genuine question (started off nice and polite) on the forum and got grief for it, even from a gent called Sterling....hence no MM products. The OP mentioned doing this in post #1, hence my reply.[/quote]

This is all making the US MM owners' forum sound like a bit of a cult... and the aforementioned gent sound a total cult. Dammit, and I was teetering on the brink of buying one. Somebody talk me back into it quick!

[dave_bass5]

I just think the EBMM. Forums are really jus to praise thier instruments, they aren't really open forums lime this and TB.
As long as people realise this I dont think they will have any issues there.
I guess if a problem does arise with one of thier instruments they would rather it be delt with in private. Understandae I guess.

[Jigster]

EBMM all sounds a bit PRC/ GDR /USSR if you ask me.

[stingrayPete1977]

I would imagine most single make forums run by the maker would be similar no matter what we are talking about, Fishing rods to bicycles I bet its the same? Thats why we all love basschat

[Prime_BASS]

While te problem is t massive or impedes the sound or playing it's an issue with a bass that cost me well over 1.5k.

I will contact strings and things in the morrow see what they say.

I don't think it's a simple fix because the whole electronic section sits together on a mesh of PCBs.

And yes, my I tension was to never cause a problem over at EBMM forum for White and giggle just wanted to know if it was a wise problem.

I would consider this bass to be high end so a silly fault like this is unacceptable, I don't buy new gear often but when I do I expect it to be 100% no matter how small the issue.

Even if it turned out this couldnt be rectified I would still want all parties involved to be notified to hopefully prevent it happening again.

You don't buy left handed scissors off the net only to discover that they are right handed and stick with it because they are still scissors, it's not what you paid for.

[stingrayPete1977]

That was my concern mate, The pcb's. I have never looked in a Big Al so I have no idea how its all laid out and it could be a crossed wire or anything. In fairness to the QC it took you a while to find it although its still not acceptable. Good luck and keep us posted

[BB3000S]

So, what pickups do you get in the all-buttons-up position?
It should be bridge+middle wired in series, but from the sound of things you might be getting middle+neck wired in series?

Regardless, you should definitely get this fixed - personally I'd get it to the dealer and expect him to sort it out asap.

Not to be smart, but I can't help to find it slightly interesting it took you two months to figure this out.
On the other hand, it took me 15 months (the evening before shipping it off to it's next owner) to realize my old Ken Smith had an active-passive push-pull so...

[stingrayPete1977]

[quote name='BB3000S' post='1269145' date='Jun 14 2011, 08:10 PM']Not to be smart, but I can't help to find it slightly interesting it took you two months to figure this out.
On the other hand, it took me 15 months (the evening before shipping it off to it's next owner) to realize my old Ken Smith had an active-passive push-pull so... [/quote]

I struggle to grasp the tone pot on a P-Bass going kind of the opposite way to an active bass control, Sort of feels like it should go brighter clockwise if you know what I meen? So after 10 mins in a shop playing with only a muddy tone it clicks, so Im a dingbat too

[mcnach]

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='1268762' date='Jun 14 2011, 03:34 PM']Your thinking bang a John East aren't you?

Seriously though I know what your saying mcnach but what if there is more to it? Is it definitley as simple as putting the switches through the right holes or are they on a pcb for example given the newness of the bass I would take it to bass merchant so as they can get written permission to open it up to save any arguements later on if its just been put in the wrong hole then its no biggy if its to bollox inside then at least it was found by the dealer rather than Prime_bass.[/quote]


ok, so it's a question of "I found something odd, there may be something else odd that I haven't noticed yet", right?

No, I wasn't thinking John East, he doesn't pay me anymore
I was only thinking that these beasts are very simple electronically and that a simple switch order alteration would not faze me if I liked the bass so I wasn't getting why it was a big issue. Granted, it should not happen... but so many other things that shouldn't happen, happen, that I've taken the attitude that if I can solve my problems easily myself, I would not waste time.

But different people...
Having peace of mind knowing all is as it should is also worth a lot, so I'm not judging the OP, alright? I was just sincerely wondering if I was missing some other detail, that's all.

[mcnach]

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='1268998' date='Jun 14 2011, 06:30 PM']You don't have to go down that route at all, Take it back or ring strings and things. Why would anyone think posting on a forum even if it is run by EBMM would be the correct way of dealing with warranty issues? Everyone else that went to the shop or S&T found that the problems were dealt with quite quickly. If you bought a land rover that broke down would you post it on their forum as a way of fixing it or take it back to the dealer for repair?[/quote]


+1

the bottomline is this.

forum or no forum... the procedure for warranty issues is clear, and it doesn't need posting on any forum

[Prime_BASS]

I will keep this updated with what ever news I get off anyone.

Ok switches down, sounds to me as if 1+2 in series.
1 up is pickup 3
2 up is pickup 2
3 up is pickup 1
1,2+3 up are all 3, I assume.

I only really used all 3 or series mode until today when I was setting it up for the gig I'm at tonight. I have found that the bridge pickup is a better alternative ray sound to my ears. As the series mode sucks some highs, due the pickup spacing (I think)
Since you've brought it up these settings could mean nothing now lol. This is just what they are supposed to do.

[bumnote]

Your first port of call is from the people you bought it from, not strings and things. Sale of Goods etc.

Give the shop the opportunity to put it right. For all strings and things know your Big Al is third hand bought as a grey import.

If its Bass Direct, they should sort you out

Edited June 14, 2011 by bumnote

[Chris2112]

EBMM always have been impossible crooked and difficult to deal with. It doesn't surprise me that they'd put out some rubbish and let their 'attack dog' forums and customer services defend them!

[Grand Wazoo]

[quote name='Musicman20' post='1269013' date='Jun 14 2011, 06:40 PM']They are a defensive company[/quote]

They are a defensive company.... hmmm let's see

They (EBMM and [b][i]Don Vito Balleone[/i][/b]) boast that their quality control is TOP NOTCH yet, we are seing basses wired up wrong, neck pockets as in the case of Gareth Musicman20, bodged to oblivion, jack sockets too tight with wiring causing batteries to last 2 days top. Finish crackling by the neck back plate, frets out of their seats from factory... I ask you what is happening to their quality control?

[stingrayPete1977]

[quote name='mcnach' post='1269158' date='Jun 14 2011, 08:21 PM']ok, so it's a question of "I found something odd, there may be something else odd that I haven't noticed yet", right?

No, I wasn't thinking John East, he doesn't pay me anymore
I was only thinking that these beasts are very simple electronically and that a simple switch order alteration would not faze me if I liked the bass so I wasn't getting why it was a big issue. Granted, it should not happen... but so many other things that shouldn't happen, happen, that I've taken the attitude that if I can solve my problems easily myself, I would not waste time.

But different people...
Having peace of mind knowing all is as it should is also worth a lot, so I'm not judging the OP, alright? I was just sincerely wondering if I was missing some other detail, that's all.[/quote]

I was thinking if there is more to it as afaik most of the ebmm Preamps are on a pcb so unless the switches are on flying leads it won't be as simple as swapping a few wires around, It could be where they attach from each pup so I wouldn't mess about on a new bass or you could end up with a massive bill for a bass under warranty.

[Prime_BASS]

I still have the reciept of purchase from bass merchant. If that helps.

[stingrayPete1977]

[quote name='Grand Wazoo' post='1269210' date='Jun 14 2011, 09:01 PM']They are a defensive company.... hmmm let's see

They (EBMM and [b][i]Don Vito Balleone[/i][/b]) boast that their quality control is TOP NOTCH yet, we are seing basses wired up wrong, neck pockets as in the case of Gareth Musicman20, bodged to oblivion, jack sockets too tight with wiring causing batteries to last 2 days top. Finish crackling by the neck back plate, frets out of their seats from factory... I ask you what is happening to their quality control?[/quote]

My 2010 Ray 5 is perfect although pmt nearly ruined the setup for me! Not an issue for me but the blame would of been wrongly aimed at EBMM for that.

[stingrayPete1977]

[quote name='Prime_BASS' post='1269253' date='Jun 14 2011, 09:31 PM']I still have the reciept of purchase from bass merchant. If that helps.[/quote]
Your case is watertight mate:)

[martthebass]

I think like a few on here have already said contact S&T they are your best bet. I've found them great to deal with, they fall over themselves to help even on old used ebmms.

Edited June 14, 2011 by martthebass

[BB3000S]

[quote name='Prime_BASS' post='1269164' date='Jun 14 2011, 09:23 PM']I will keep this updated with what ever news I get off anyone.

Ok switches down, sounds to me as if 1+2 in series.
1 up is pickup 3
2 up is pickup 2
3 up is pickup 1
1,2+3 up are all 3, I assume.

I only really used all 3 or series mode until today when I was setting it up for the gig I'm at tonight. I have found that the bridge pickup is a better alternative ray sound to my ears. As the series mode sucks some highs, due the pickup spacing (I think)
Since you've brought it up these settings could mean nothing now lol. This is just what they are supposed to do.[/quote]
By "up" do you mean "down" as in "pressed into the bass body"??

Button 1 up, ie buttons 2 and 3 down would be (if counting from the bridge) Middle (2) + Neck (3) in parallell. Sure this is not what your in fact getting?

The all buttons up setting should be Bridge + Middle in series, this is the setting that has a clear volume and low mid boost.
All three buttons down are should be all three PU's wired in parallell, a really nicely full and complex sound.
2 down (not up!) should be the Middle PU, a great and easily spotted P-bass sound.

Perhaps you've just developed a backwards logic of how the switching works? No pun intended, it could easily be done.
Or I'm just slow...

[bumnote]

The law
The law gives you the following rights under this contract.

The goods should be:

Of satisfactory quality
This means of a standard that a reasonable person would consider to be satisfactory – generally free from fault or defect. They should also be of a reasonable appearance and finish; safe and durable.

Fit for purpose
This means as well as being fit for all common purposes for which they are generally sold, goods should be fit for any specific or particular purpose made known at the time of sale.

As described
This means goods should correspond with any description applied to them – this could be verbally, on a sign, or packaging, or an advert.

[size=3]It is important to remember these rights exist automatically, between you and the trader. The trader should accept liability for any problems under the contract.

Don’t be fobbed off by a trader who tells you to take it up with the manufacturer.

Only when you buy goods directly from the manufacturer is your contract with them and the same rights as above will apply. [/size]

[Prime_BASS]

[quote name='BB3000S' post='1269284' date='Jun 14 2011, 09:52 PM']By "up" do you mean "down" as in "pressed into the bass body"??

Button 1 up, ie buttons 2 and 3 down would be (if counting from the bridge) Middle (2) + Neck (3) in parallell. Sure this is not what your in fact getting?

The all buttons up setting should be Bridge + Middle in series, this is the setting that has a clear volume and low mid boost.
All three buttons down are should be all three PU's wired in parallell, a really nicely full and complex sound.
2 down (not up!) should be the Middle PU, a great and easily spotted P-bass sound.

Perhaps you've just developed a backwards logic of how the switching works? No pun intended, it could easily be done.
Or I'm just slow... [/quote]

I feel you post is wasted. Lol. I mean up as in the up position. When the buttons are in the down position this turns them Off, so up is on.
Well I must say the turn out on this thread is great. I can die happy in the knowledge that I made an interesting thread that went on longer than 3 pages with my posts being outweighed by other members lol.
Ive just finishe the gig tonight, and I played with the big al, using my new found setting of third button turning the bridge pickup on. I always wondered why I could never get a jaco burping sound out of it, until now that is.

I think this brings up another problem, the bridge single coil sounds kinda like my stingray so I think whoever put that SD pickup in my ray wired it in parallel. Any way to find out, if had a look at the wiring before and I'm a bit lost all the wires are just soldered on.