Bottle Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Hi Chaps Just got a Vintage copy of a single H Stingray. Had a quick shuftie under the control plate and it appears the humbucker is wired in series (which is kinda what I expected). Black appears to be grounded along with the screen, red / white soldered together and green goes to the vol pot. Wanted to fit a series / parallel switch for coil tapping. Just wondered if you guys had a wiring colour code for the Wilkinson humbucker pickup. EDIT: No matter, doing a bit of Googling, there appears to be several colour-coding schemes in use for Wilkinson pickups, looks like the most accurate one is the same as the Seymour Duncan one, so will try that with a toggle and see how I get on..... Ta, Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neepheid Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 (edited) [quote name='Bottle' post='1284189' date='Jun 27 2011, 03:06 PM']Hi Chaps Just got a Vintage copy of a single H Stingray. Had a quick shuftie under the control plate and it appears the humbucker is wired in series (which is kinda what I expected). Black appears to be grounded along with the screen, red / white soldered together and green goes to the vol pot. Wanted to fit a series / parallel switch for coil tapping. Just wondered if you guys had a wiring colour code for the Wilkinson humbucker pickup. EDIT: No matter, doing a bit of Googling, there appears to be several colour-coding schemes in use for Wilkinson pickups, looks like the most accurate one is the same as the Seymour Duncan one, so will try that with a toggle and see how I get on..... Ta, Ian[/quote] Assuming that the correct wires are soldered together then it could/should be black - south coil ground green - north coil hot Red and white is the tricky one, one will be the south coil hot and one will be the north coil ground. You should be able to work it out with a multimeter. Set it to ohms. Break the join at the red/white. Take the black wire and try it through the multimeter with the white wire. If you get a sensible reading (some kOhms) then that's one coil and black is ground. If you don't then it'll be black and red as the first coil. Then it's easy from there. The remaining wire will be north ground and you already know that green is the hot wire for the north coil. Matt Edited June 27, 2011 by neepheid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bottle Posted June 27, 2011 Author Share Posted June 27, 2011 [quote name='neepheid' post='1284217' date='Jun 27 2011, 03:28 PM']Assuming that the correct wires are soldered together then it could/should be black - south coil ground green - north coil hot Red and white is the tricky one, one will be the south coil hot and one will be the north coil ground. You should be able to work it out with a multimeter. Set it to ohms. Break the join at the red/white. Take the black wire and try it through the multimeter with the white wire. If you get a sensible reading (some kOhms) then that's one coil and black is ground. If you don't then it'll be black and red as the first coil. Then it's easy from there. The remaining wire will be north ground and you already know that green is the hot wire for the north coil. Matt[/quote] Matt, Had the control plate apart now, looks like I've got ~ 4.5k between black and white, and about the same between red and green, seeming to suggest it's the same as the SD wiring colour code (it appears that when in series it didn't matter if black and green were reversed). In that case, I'm going to use the SD colour scheme and switching arrangement - I've got a spare DPDT toggle knocking about at home. Tasks for tomorrow will be to re-dress the control cavity wiring (BTW it ain't screened either!) and fit the switch as well as drill 'n' fill a couple of holes with stripped threads. Ta muchly fella, Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iconic Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 [quote name='Bottle' timestamp='1309186661' post='1284258'] Matt, Had the control plate apart now, looks like I've got ~ 4.5k between black and white, and about the same between red and green, seeming to suggest it's the same as the SD wiring colour code (it appears that when in series it didn't matter if black and green were reversed). In that case, I'm going to use the SD colour scheme and switching arrangement - I've got a spare DPDT toggle knocking about at home. Tasks for tomorrow will be to re-dress the control cavity wiring (BTW it ain't screened either!) and fit the switch as well as drill 'n' fill a couple of holes with stripped threads. Ta muchly fella, Ian [/quote] Did you ever finish this mod? Did wiring n parallel make the sound brighter and quieter? I see you are still logging in to BC! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bottle Posted February 15, 2016 Author Share Posted February 15, 2016 [quote name='iconic' timestamp='1455227542' post='2977354'] Did you ever finish this mod? Did wiring n parallel make the sound brighter and quieter? I see you are still logging in to BC! [/quote] Alas I moved the bass on to a friend around 2012, so never go to sorting out the wiring - sounded fine in series mode so left it at that Best results I've had so far have been with my Ibanez Jazz copy which I added a Series/Parallel toggle to do the same thing with the two pickups. One caveat is that one coil [i]has[/i] to be RWRP though HTH, Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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