Ou7shined Posted July 4, 2011 Share Posted July 4, 2011 The more I look at it, the more I'm thinking just get a claw hammer under it (protect the wood with a chock of course) and hoik it off. Those screws will probably just fall out anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Vader Posted July 4, 2011 Author Share Posted July 4, 2011 Oooh, that sounds fun. I have no lathe, and wouldn't know where to start, but I can hit it with a hammer. Will try the cautious approach first, but rather than buying more things to try it, I may whack it with a hammer and then apply many cocktail sticks in araldite... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Vader Posted July 4, 2011 Author Share Posted July 4, 2011 [quote name='Johnston' post='1292242' date='Jul 4 2011, 02:48 PM'] 9" lathe nothing to it. Just remember the googles[/quote] Oh that looks fun, have remembered to google it.... what next Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ou7shined Posted July 4, 2011 Share Posted July 4, 2011 DV : I'm just wondering, am I on your ignore list? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Vader Posted July 4, 2011 Author Share Posted July 4, 2011 [quote name='Ou7shined' post='1292355' date='Jul 4 2011, 04:10 PM']DV : I'm just wondering, am I on your ignore list?[/quote] Not in the least sir, I'm very fond of your posts, I also enjoy re-interpreting them from sensible claw hammer work into whacking it with a big heavy thing (I fully intend to be more sensible, flippancy is a curse I cannot shake off). I assume the chock goes under the head end for the pivoting divot? As I guess there's no way to protect the bit where the claw goes under the bridge? I have nobody on my ignore list, being fair too tolerant for my own good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Vader Posted July 4, 2011 Author Share Posted July 4, 2011 and I would miss your cat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Vader Posted July 4, 2011 Author Share Posted July 4, 2011 Oh, while I'm piling on the posts in here Ou7shined, I also bought this body after a discussion we had elsewhere about tonewoods, or lack of. I figured I would get a big lump of plywood, after you convinced me of the many variables that go into the sound of an instrument, and I had a fond reminiscence of an old plywood strat copy. Thank you sir for your contributions, I wish I had your skill with a chisel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ou7shined Posted July 4, 2011 Share Posted July 4, 2011 [quote name='Dave Vader' post='1292365' date='Jul 4 2011, 04:17 PM']Not in the least sir, I'm very fond of your posts, I also enjoy re-interpreting them from sensible claw hammer work into whacking it with a big heavy thing (I fully intend to be more sensible, flippancy is a curse I cannot shake off). I assume the chock goes under the head end for the pivoting divot? As I guess there's no way to protect the bit where the claw goes under the bridge? I have nobody on my ignore list, being fair too tolerant for my own good. [/quote] Haha Fair enough. I was just thinking how come he's replying to other folk... I must have pissed him off at some point... I'm good at that you know. Aye spot on, it has two purposes - [b]A[/b] it goes under the hitting end for protection of your work-piece and [b]2[/b] it provides extra pivot-age-ness. See if you can get some good purchase from the front end first - a tap from something might help you get under there. What I imagine you might find is that most of the pitch of the screws has been corroded away too and what you could have there might be short of rusty nails. (What nick are the p/g screws in?) Also old ply tends to be a bit brittle (especially if it's been wet) which will help with the extraction but would be worthwhile beefing up that area in the doing up stages anyway. I presume you are painting it? After you rub it down, leave it in the airing cupboard for a few days to thoroughly dry out - just in case the is still some residual moisture. I almost put a bid in for this you know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ou7shined Posted July 4, 2011 Share Posted July 4, 2011 [quote name='Dave Vader' post='1292408' date='Jul 4 2011, 04:47 PM']Oh, while I'm piling on the posts in here Ou7shined, I also bought this body after a discussion we had elsewhere about tonewoods, or lack of. I figured I would get a big lump of plywood, after you convinced me of the many variables that go into the sound of an instrument, and I had a fond reminiscence of an old plywood strat copy. Thank you sir for your contributions, I wish I had your skill with a chisel.[/quote] Aw shucks. Old ply is a big old secret around these here parts... it's often denser than solid woods (certainly than force grown modern stuff). I have an old Hondo II Jazz that weighs like 11 lbs. I recently had two P bodies in stock for a custom/rebuild for someone. The donors of choice were either 70's ply or modern solid (well three piece) - the customer got the solid wood (it's what they would have wanted) and I kept the ply for my personal collection. Hanging up, it chimes like a really low note on a Xylophone if you rap it with your knuckle. That to me says all I need to know about it's inherent acoustic properties. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Vader Posted July 4, 2011 Author Share Posted July 4, 2011 [quote name='Ou7shined' post='1292416' date='Jul 4 2011, 04:52 PM']Haha Fair enough. I was just thinking how come he's replying to other folk... I must have pissed him off at some point... I'm good at that you know. I presume you are painting it? After you rub it down, leave it in the airing cupboard for a few days to thoroughly dry out - just in case the is still some residual moisture. I almost put a bid in for this you know. [/quote] Was replying in a big general everyoneness, hoped it was all-inclusive, but probably ballsed it up. And the reason I bought it was cos I didn't want to paint the one I have already, I'm leaving the bugger as is, it's not that beaten up under the stickers. Plus the bridge I have lying around is bigger than a standard Fendery one, and should hide all the dents from hammers and suchlike. My intention is to make a fretless P-bass that matches this here old Strat of mine, so a perfect finish is not essential, as long as it works, and all dings and wear are naturally occuring (no fojo round here). Almost wish you had put a bid in, would have saved me a lot of work... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ou7shined Posted July 4, 2011 Share Posted July 4, 2011 Ooh are you going for cream pups too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monckyman Posted July 4, 2011 Share Posted July 4, 2011 See, this is my definition of fun. Whacking old bass bodies with hammers etc. When you get it done the satisfaction will force a big smug grin on yer gob and you`ll want to tell everyone. It`ll probably even sound good! I`m betting that after a good wd soak and wire brushing those screws will come out..... Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Vader Posted July 5, 2011 Author Share Posted July 5, 2011 [quote name='Ou7shined' post='1292631' date='Jul 4 2011, 07:57 PM']Ooh are you going for cream pups too. [/quote] Yep, got some cream covers from Bass Doc, and a set of Wizard trads from samuel, nearly have everything in place and ready, just have to get this bridge off, file out the neck pocket to fit my maple fretless neck (off the bass in my avatar, which has been selflessly testing it for the last month) and dig out some old cream strat knobs to go on the pots. And hoping you're right with the WD soak MM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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