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hi
just wondering if anyone could give me a bit advise , i stripped down an old aria bass and i want to paint it i was going to send it out for painting . but after spending a long time stripping and sanding i feel i want to finish it myself so i need some advise i know the required paint is nitro cellulose and clear lacquer do i need sanding sealer first and or do i use a primer any advise would be much appreciated . best wishes john

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[quote name='BigRedX' post='1291929' date='Jul 4 2011, 11:07 AM'][url="http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/shop/lacquer-faqs/"]Start by reading this[/url].[/quote]
thanks for that , spent a while this afternoon going through it . much appreciated
john

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I'm currently doing a refin (my first)
As the advice says, preparation is key. The more work you put into getting the body [i]perfectly[/i] smooth, the easier, quicker and cheaper the painting and polishing will be. I thought that I had filled the grain to an acceptable level, but once the paint was on, the grain showed up like a relief map! (It's ash, which is a particularly open-grained wood) I had to sand right back through several coats to get it smooth, then paint again.
Hope it all goes well.

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There's a fair bit in my build thread too with some of the pitfalls and frustrations, but got there in the end. I used nitro from Tonetech.

[url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=94028&hl"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=94028&hl[/url]

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Here's some advice I wish I'd been given before I refinished mine:
When you're spraying, make sure you're pressing down on the button as hard as it will go; otherwise, the paint will go all misty and it'll dry before it hits the bass. Very annoying!

Truckstop

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[quote name='Truckstop' post='1296087' date='Jul 7 2011, 03:47 PM']Here's some advice I wish I'd been given before I refinished mine:
When you're spraying, make sure you're pressing down on the button as hard as it will go; otherwise, the paint will go all misty and it'll dry before it hits the bass. Very annoying!

Truckstop[/quote]
hi
many thanks for the advise guys , all the stuff arrived paint, sanding sealer , grain filler , etc . hopefully i make a good job of this and i will put some pictures up later ( when i say later i mean around september ) im quite busy at work then going on holiday . i will put up pictures and a brief bit about how it went so it may help others .

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Im just learning some finishing techniques myself. i would strongly advise buying one of these -


[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SPRAY-GUN-TRIGGER-AEROSOL-CANS-/300570589322?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item45fb67388a"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SPRAY-GUN-TRIGGER-AE...=item45fb67388a[/url]

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I am a car sprayer who has years of experience in paint....Not guitars till recently but this is my method instead of using nitro
Hey all there are a lot of various ways to paint a guitar,whether to change colour or repair chips or scratches I find this is the most effective method of preparation and application.


Determine the reason of painting i.e change colour or repair.

Once guitar is fully stripped of all components and body is a shell sand any chips or scratches using a 400 grade sand paper(I use this on an orbital sander).Any deep chips or marks should be filled using a suitable filler like a body filler or a wood filler.I prefer a car body filler as it is easier to work with and easy sandable.Once filler is dried smooth to shape with a 180 grade paper then over with a 400.
Next key the rest of the body so no shine remains (this ensures the paint will grip to the body). I generally use a 600 wet and dry or a 1500 disc in a sander.
Once keyed primer should be applied to repaired area or coated all over if u can still feel saome sanding marks.I use a 2k high build primer/filler mixed 4-1 with an activator." coats should be plenty and once dried flat with a 600 grade wet.
A smooth finish should now be there.
next the paint. I use a water based product made by max meyer called aquamax.3 or for coats drying each coat thouroughly using air(ie hair dryer ,I have a spray booth with an oven.
Once covered I apply 2-3 coats of ultra high solid clearcoat which achieves a uultra high gloss finish.
If any bits of dust or imperfections can be seen in the clearcoat I use a 2000 grade paper (wet) to nib out the pieces and then polish back to a shine using a buffing machine and compund before using a polishing mop on buffer with a finishing compound

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