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Batteries


Mikeg
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Jeez, all this reminds me of an Alembic Series One Point I had in the mid '80s. The phantom power (27 volts?) was a fkn heavy box that sat on the floor and plugged into the bass, separate from the signal jack. Too bad if you wanted to move about the stage!

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[quote name='Evil Undead' post='1305160' date='Jul 15 2011, 08:55 PM']I've heard that it's possible to fry the pre-amp if you leave the lead in. A guy I know did it, and it was a pretty costly repair as he didn't know how to do it himself.[/quote]

He must have done more than leave the lead in to fry the pre-amp.

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My old Aria is active, but even unplugging the lead the batteries would only last about a month. I think the jack socket only switched one of the batteries, so I ended up having to disconnect the other battery at the end of each gig. Of course the batteries gave no warning - 30 seconds of farty noises followed by silence, and no passive mode. Changing the batteries required removing the back plate - three small screws easily lost on a dark stage.

Now I'm a battery-free zone. If it's not passive, or doesn't plug into the mains, I don't want it :)

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My Variax guitar is rather heavier on power than the average active bass - I run it off rechargeables (6xAA) for up to half an hour or so, but if I'm playing any longer than that, I use the phantom power system. It's all very simple, either I use a normal mono lead and run off batteries, or I use a stereo lead to the floor box and a mono lead from that to the amp. I'm not sure how the switching is done at the instrument end.

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[quote name='tauzero' post='1307804' date='Jul 18 2011, 01:29 PM']My Variax guitar is rather heavier on power than the average active bass - I run it off rechargeables (6xAA) for up to half an hour or so, but if I'm playing any longer than that, I use the phantom power system. It's all very simple, either I use a normal mono lead and run off batteries, or I use a stereo lead to the floor box and a mono lead from that to the amp. I'm not sure how the switching is done at the instrument end.[/quote]

Here's a mod I just worked out (but haven't tried!) for systems that depend on a mono jack being plugged in to switch the battery on, ie where the battery -v connects to the ring contact on the jack. My EMG-P works this way.

Fit a rechargeable NiMH battery. Connect a diode like 1N4148 across the battery, cathode to battery +v, anode to -v. Connect a second diode cathode to battery +v, anode to ground.

Plugging a mono jack in will now turn on the internal battery. To use an external supply, use a stereo jack with the tip connected to the amp input as usual but with the ring connected to the +v of a battery, -v of this battery to ground. To charge the internal battery, take a NiMH charger and connect the -v to the ring, and +v to ground. You can't use the bass while it's charging.

Anyone tried this? Shall I?

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+1 on the procells.. Fabulous for the money and come with a little plastic terminal cap so that you can't discharge them accidently...

MArk


[quote name='xgsjx' post='1305228' date='Jul 15 2011, 09:47 PM']I've got a box of 10 of these

[url="http://www.buyabattery.co.uk/paintball-9v-batteries-alkaline-duracell-procell-mn1604-p-1730.html?osCsid=4d54b12f5182e7d331913276f4562534"]9 volt jobbies.[/url]

£7.40 a box & they're the equivalent of a Duracell Ultra.


(link nicked from the rechargable battery thread)[/quote]

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[quote name='bremen' post='1307849' date='Jul 18 2011, 02:06 PM']Here's a mod I just worked out (but haven't tried!) for systems that depend on a mono jack being plugged in to switch the battery on, ie where the battery -v connects to the ring contact on the jack. My EMG-P works this way.

Fit a rechargeable NiMH battery. Connect a diode like 1N4148 across the battery, cathode to battery +v, anode to -v. Connect a second diode cathode to battery +v, anode to ground.

Plugging a mono jack in will now turn on the internal battery. To use an external supply, use a stereo jack with the tip connected to the amp input as usual but with the ring connected to the +v of a battery, -v of this battery to ground. To charge the internal battery, take a NiMH charger and connect the -v to the ring, and +v to ground. You can't use the bass while it's charging.

Anyone tried this? Shall I?[/quote]

John East has beaten you to it, He does a P Bass preamp that fits in an un modded p bass cavity that has a battery (or capacitor style jobbie) that you charge through the jack socket with a sort of 9v phone charger. He is a clever chap :)

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[quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='1308259' date='Jul 18 2011, 07:11 PM']John East has beaten you to it, He does a P Bass preamp that fits in an un modded p bass cavity that has a battery (or capacitor style jobbie) that you charge through the jack socket with a sort of 9v phone charger. He is a clever chap :)[/quote]

Might be a problem if your bass takes 2 batteries, as it might need both 9v & 18v supplies (as my Aria seems to).

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For me the issue is not running out of battery life, more one of changing the battery at short notice when it fails. Most basses have three or four fiddly screws on the back which don't make for a friendly on the fly change.

You could opt for one of these: [url="http://www.axesrus.com/axeElectronicsEffects.htm"]Battery boxes - 3 different types.[/url]

Alternatively there is a mod where an LED lights up when the battery is getting low. The electronics are usually Ok down to about 7.7 volts IIRC, (I don't know why that figure is in my head). So the LED is set to come on below 8volts which will give you a few more days gigging before you're out of power.

I'll look up the LED mod.

EDIT: here it is [url="http://www.guitarelectronics.com/c=AEWHg29ARm1kVSt5YLpIOJG9g/product/PMTLBAT/9-Volt-Low-Battery-Indicator-for-Active-Pickups-Electronics-For-Guitar-Bass.html"]Low battery indicator.[/url]

Edited by TimR
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