Neck relief keeps changing, even getting more back bow!

[xilddx]

Weird.

I built this last year [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?s=&showtopic=94028&view=findpost&p=1015394"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?s=&sho...t&p=1015394[/url]

It has a Warwick Rock Bass Streamer neck, three piece maple. I put new strings on about a month ago, re-set the truss rod, rehearsed with it then put it on a stand in my studio, which is cool with normal humidity. Played my other bass for a couple of weeks and went back to this one. The relief had backbowed to the extent that the first 4-5 frets were unplayable, totally chocked the strings.

I've noticed this happen in the past, forward and back bow slightly, but not to this extreme. I can't understand how a neck can back bow that dramatically, or at all. Is it taking a week to settle after truss rod adjustment? I have never had that problem before with any instrument.

Any ideas?

[Ou7shined]

The big test is to re-set and see if it happens again.

[xilddx]

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1352356' date='Aug 26 2011, 01:15 PM']The big test is to re-set and see if it happens again.[/quote]
Thanks mate, I have a few times and it gets worse over time.

I just had a chat with Martin Petersen and his thinking is the neck wood is low density and more susceptible to change.

New neck time. Or I may part it out and just buy a good, reliable bass. I have a little Hohner headless as back up, but I need a good main bass. I should never have sold my Corvette $$.

[Ou7shined]

Yeah if it keeps happening then it's a dud. Like anything it can be fixed... but at a price.

[warwickhunt]

One of my old Sadowskys used to need tweaks whenever I moved from one location to another, not to the point where it backbowed and bottomed out but the action would vary massively with a small increase/decrease in temperature. An Overwater that I had pass through several moths ago had a neck that would flex with normal playing pressure, it could literally be put 'way' out of tune just with hard fretting and the action varied depending on if the bass was on edge on your lap or laid flat! I've noticed that it seems more prevalent with one piece maple necks which I assume are of lighter density maple.

[xilddx]

[quote name='warwickhunt' post='1352523' date='Aug 26 2011, 02:55 PM']One of my old Sadowskys used to need tweaks whenever I moved from one location to another, not to the point where it backbowed and bottomed out but the action would vary massively with a small increase/decrease in temperature. An Overwater that I had pass through several moths ago had a neck that would flex with normal playing pressure, it could literally be put 'way' out of tune just with hard fretting and the action varied depending on if the bass was on edge on your lap or laid flat! I've noticed that it seems more prevalent with one piece maple necks which I assume are of lighter density maple.[/quote]
Scary! Especially if it's on an expensive instrument, unacceptable really.

[xilddx]

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1352485' date='Aug 26 2011, 02:35 PM']Yeah if it keeps happening then it's a dud. Like anything it can be fixed... but at a price.[/quote]
Basically what Martin said. He could take the fretboard off and insert carbon rods. But he said it isn't really worth the expense. He recommended someone who could make me a neck of the right dimensions to fit, probably about £250 opposed to £400 for Martin to make me one.

[Ou7shined]

[quote name='silddx' post='1352535' date='Aug 26 2011, 03:03 PM']Basically what Martin said. He could take the fretboard off and insert carbon rods. But he said it isn't really worth the expense. He recommended someone who could make me a neck of the right dimensions to fit, probably about £250 opposed to £400 for Martin to make me one.[/quote]
Yep. Good advice.

[BottomEndian]

[quote name='warwickhunt' post='1352523' date='Aug 26 2011, 02:55 PM']I've noticed that it seems more prevalent with one piece maple necks[/quote]
^ This.

My Tanglewater and Hondo have both shifted a fair bit over the last few weeks, while the rest of the family have been stable. The Tanglewater and Hondo are the only ones with one-piece maple necks.

EDIT: This is, of course, irrelevant to Nigel's OP, given his 3-piece neck, but it's interesting all the same.

Edited August 26, 2011 by BottomEndian

[xilddx]

[quote name='BottomEndian' post='1352543' date='Aug 26 2011, 03:09 PM']^ This.

My Tanglewater and Hondo have both shifted a fair bit over the last few weeks, while the rest of the family have been stable. The Tanglewater and Hondo are the only ones with one-piece maple necks.

EDIT: This is, of course, irrelevant to Nigel's OP, given his 3-piece neck, but it's interesting all the same. [/quote]
The neck is very light though. Which gives credence to Martin's low density theory. The fact it is three pieces may be a cost cutting thing.

[Ou7shined]

[quote name='silddx' post='1352575' date='Aug 26 2011, 03:23 PM']The neck is very light though. Which gives credence to Martin's low density theory. The fact it is three pieces may be a cost cutting thing.[/quote]
Alan (ACG) once told me he'd seen a whole neck ruined by a single sliver of veneer which wouldn't behave. Laminates are no more immune to warping than a one piece.

[xilddx]

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1352613' date='Aug 26 2011, 03:41 PM']Alan (ACG) once told me he'd seen a whole neck ruined by a single sliver of veneer which wouldn't behave. Laminates are no more immune to warping than a one piece.[/quote]
My thought too. I think people assume laminates are more stable, when actually, they could be quite the opposite in some cases.

[skelf]

I have indeed seen a single laminate usually wenge move an entire neck blank. This is the reason for letting wood sit as long as possible before cutting it. I also let the wood sit for as long as I can after it has been cut up in to laminate sections. In my case every thing is cut up in to 30 mm wide strips. This is left as long as possible be fore use. A laminated neck with different woods and proper grain orientation is a more stable structure than a single piece. If the single piece does move it all moves the same way. In a laminate neck if one piece moves there are others that don't. With the precautions mentioned above I would always use a laminate neck over a single piece. However there are loads of single piece necks that are just fine.

[xilddx]

[quote name='skelf' post='1352852' date='Aug 26 2011, 06:35 PM']I have indeed seen a single laminate usually wenge move an entire neck blank. This is the reason for letting wood sit as long as possible before cutting it. I also let the wood sit for as long as I can after it has been cut up in to laminate sections. In my case every thing is cut up in to 30 mm wide strips. This is left as long as possible be fore use. A laminated neck with different woods and proper grain orientation is a more stable structure than a single piece. If the single piece does move it all moves the same way. In a laminate neck if one piece moves there are others that don't. With the precautions mentioned above I would always use a laminate neck over a single piece. However there are loads of single piece necks that are just fine.[/quote]
Interesting.

Coincidentally, I was looking at your site earlier wondering if you might be able to make me a neck with the same neck socket dimensions.