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7 String Woes


jaybyname
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Hi all. Just a couple fo things I need advice on. Just received my 7 string bass yesterday and was wanting some advice/guidance on the set up.
I have individual bridges and although they seem lined up the F string saddle seems to be off centre or the string goes over the bridge straight then changes angle to carry on inline with the neck. Plays and sounds fine, just looks a bit off. Just wondered if this is the norm on extended range basses? Also, if I want to go for the low f# do I buy another low B and tune that to F. Thats 2 low b's ill have. Is this right.

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Ok, so i was to go to my local shop and make up a set. I would buy 2 x B strings. a 130. (as normal) and a 145. which I would then tuned to F#. Is this correct?

How about my bass bridge line-up as mentioned above. Does this sound right? Looking at the bass, it looks like an optical effect but Im convinced its not straight or at least how it should be.

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Your average local shop is unlikely to have anything remotely close unless your local shop is the Bass Merchant or The Gallery or somewhere like that.

Not sure about the bridge angle, have you tried measuring it to see how off it is? Depending on the part is it a small enough amount that you could remove the string, loosen the screw holding the offending bridge to the body and move it slightly?

Edited by Delberthot
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Hi - I'm a seven string player. Can you post a picture of the saddle? It certainly doesn't sound right! What is the make and model of the Bass you have received? I'll be able to advise further re gauges of strings. Hopefully the wonky saddle isn't impeding the movement of the string and will be fine, though it sounds like bad manufacture if it isn't straight.

If you want to tune down to F# then don't use a B string (130 gauge) - it'll be floppy and very quiet in comparison to the other strings, especially if you have a 34" scale bass. The lowest gauge I have managed on an F# was a custom made 145 string by Newtone - the string was specially manufactured to keep the tension high on a low tuning. - My current strings are Rotosounds and they make a .175 gauge string which to be honest is a great place to start. 165 would be your minimum at least on a 35" scale. Warwick manufacture the 'Dark Lord' set which also includes a .175 and other US brands such as Conklin and SIT do heavy gauge strings too. Rotosound however is easily available in the UK as you probably already know!

Doooooooooooooooood

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[quote name='dood' timestamp='1317120053' post='1386875']
Hi - I'm a seven string player. Can you post a picture of the saddle? It certainly doesn't sound right! What is the make and model of the Bass you have received? I'll be able to advise further re gauges of strings. Hopefully the wonky saddle isn't impeding the movement of the string and will be fine, though it sounds like bad manufacture if it isn't straight.

If you want to tune down to F# then don't use a B string (130 gauge) - it'll be floppy and very quiet in comparison to the other strings, especially if you have a 34" scale bass. The lowest gauge I have managed on an F# was a custom made 145 string by Newtone - the string was specially manufactured to keep the tension high on a low tuning. - My current strings are Rotosounds and they make a .175 gauge string which to be honest is a great place to start. 165 would be your minimum at least on a 35" scale. Warwick manufacture the 'Dark Lord' set which also includes a .175 and other US brands such as Conklin and SIT do heavy gauge strings too. Rotosound however is easily available in the UK as you probably already know!

Doooooooooooooooood
[/quote]

Many thanks for the advice, heres the link which tempted me. As I already play 6 string and was interested in going 7, I found this dodgy supplier on ebay who although his communication, pictures and delivery time were atrocious, the bass arrived yesterday and its a stunner, really really good. Passive electronics, but damn fine build and weight. I think I ripped him off. These are underated basses for the cash. If you want a cheapy, just buy these until your ready to play with the big boys!!! Can't really see the saddles clearly but as there individual, they look slighty off towards the f saddle.

[url="http://www.maxetone.com/JGallery/index.php?view=category&catid=168&option=com_joomgallery&Itemid=2"][font="Calibri"][color="#0000ff"]http://www.maxetone.com/JGallery/index.php?view=category&catid=168&option=com_joomgallery&Itemid=2[/color][/font][/url]

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[quote name='jaybyname' timestamp='1317120744' post='1386888']

Many thanks for the advice, heres the link which tempted me. As I already play 6 string and was interested in going 7, I found this dodgy supplier on ebay who although his communication, pictures and delivery time were atrocious, the bass arrived yesterday and its a stunner, really really good. Passive electronics, but damn fine build and weight. I think I ripped him off. These are underated basses for the cash. If you want a cheapy, just buy these until your ready to play with the big boys!!! Can't really see the saddles clearly but as there individual, they look slighty off towards the f saddle.

[url="http://www.maxetone.com/JGallery/index.php?view=category&catid=168&option=com_joomgallery&Itemid=2"][font=Calibri][color=#0000ff]http://www.maxetone.com/JGallery/index.php?view=category&catid=168&option=com_joomgallery&Itemid=2[/color][/font][/url]
[/quote]


Ahhh yes, I saw those on eBay myself. Not a massive amount of details about them so hard to make an educated response, but certainly I'd look at a heavier F# string based on the assumption the instrument is a 34" or 35" scale. As for the F string, if it sounds ok and you can live with it being wonky then go for it - however, if the saddle is too far out it could well fatigue the string if the edges are a bit rough which will help to break it should you dig in a bit hard. - Pop it into any reputable luthier / repair shop and they should be able to sort it with minimal fuss.

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Aye, the very ones. Pictures don't do them any justice. I was very surprised last night as I opened the box. Need to file the nut a little and re-seat the neck but other than that, superb quailty. Had visions of a neck heavy instrument, but well balanced. Full scale 34" too. F plays and sounds normal amped and acoustic. No buzz. Ill have another look around it again, but will post pics of the bridge later. Thanks for advice.

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On a similar note, is there a specific reason why my individual bass bridges are in a stepped formation. If I was to adjust, what harm is there in lining them all up again to create some symmetry to the neck. That make sense? Im thinking of stripping and re-fitting the 7 individual bridges in line with eachother then correcting the saddles/intonation later.

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The natural version looks lovely....

[url="http://www.maxetone.com/JGallery/index.php?view=detail&id=3266&option=com_joomgallery&Itemid=2#joomimg"]http://www.maxetone....temid=2#joomimg[/url]

Just got a reply from the guy in china, he'll do it in 35" for no extra cost... hmmmmm...

Edited by markstuk
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[quote name='jaybyname' timestamp='1317129983' post='1387105']
On a similar note, is there a specific reason why my individual bass bridges are in a stepped formation. If I was to adjust, what harm is there in lining them all up again to create some symmetry to the neck. That make sense? Im thinking of stripping and re-fitting the 7 individual bridges in line with eachother then correcting the saddles/intonation later.
[/quote]
If I understand you correctly, then, the reason they are in "stepped formation" is for correct intonation. If you line them up, the higher you play - the more out of tune.

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[quote name='jaybyname' timestamp='1317114169' post='1386776']
....I have individual bridges and although they seem lined up the F string saddle seems to be off centre or the string goes over the bridge straight then changes angle to carry on inline with the neck. Plays and sounds fine, just looks a bit off. Just wondered if this is the norm on extended range basses? .....
[/quote]

It's because the top of the neck at the nut is narrower than at the body end, in other words the strings on most basses aren't parallel because the spacing is usually much wider at the bridge than at the nut. It doesn't really show on 4 string basses but the more strings you have the more the cumulative difference in spacing starts to show.

Plus having individual bridge pieces set out on the body gives your eyes a parallel reference so it's more noticeable that the outside strings make a bit of a detour over the bridge pieces. I had a double take when I first got my Status 6 string for the same reason.

Edited by Fat Rich
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