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Yes - I know it's a 6 string, but it might be a useful tip!


Andyjr1515
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Hi

Apologies for those who are rightly offended by 6 strings, but the attached might be useful for basses too!

I was recently asked if I could make a strat based on some's Hank Marvin signature neck - they wanted it red, but a little bit different top the normal Fiesta Red we all know and :) .

I got an Ash body, veneered it (as described in earlier threads) in Myrtle veneer, then looked for a suitable red stain. After dismissing Dylon fabric dye (wrong shade), I firmed up on calligraphy red ink! No other stain needed, just needed finishing in the usual way with Tru-oil. The photos don't do it justice - it's less yellow in real life and absolutely STUNNING.

[attachment=90534:IMG_1868s.jpg]
[attachment=90535:IMG_1852s.jpg]
[attachment=90536:IMG_1851s.jpg]

I'm going to try something similar on an Ibanez bass, but maybe try turquoise Quink!!! Maybe I'll call it my Parker Range :)

I've put some of the shots and some of the other basses and 6 strings I've done on my website (see signature) - and no...I'm not a commercial builder. I just get a kick out of how these things sometimes turn out and have a master plan to eventually try to simply fund what I like dong best - playing them!!

Found a damn good grain filler too - shout if you want some more details

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Hi

I've been asked for a few more details and the answers might be of general interest so...here goes.

Ref the veneering, I added a thread earlier in the year of some of the tips and tricks [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/142149-veneering-an-ibanez-gsr200-tips-tricks/"]http://basschat.co.u...00-tips-tricks/[/url]

Ref staining and finishing the back and sides - which were a plain Ash - this is how it came out (again, the colour is a bit squiffy on the photo - it is a real deep blood red in real life)
[attachment=90549:IMG_1874s.jpg

The grain on the Ash shows through great. With a grainy wood like this and stained, there are two options:
Have grain showing or Have grain completely filled

This example has the grain showing (it is just a hint, as much of the grain is filled in any case with the varnish). The process there is: stain with ink or dye; apply enough coats of tru oil to allow very fine sanding (1000 grit) without breaking through into the dye. Apply more coats of Tru-Oil until the desired gloss is reached, sanding very gently between coats with 2000 grit.

Grain not showing is easy with plain wood - just use either the Tru-oil sealer /filler, sand down then Tru-Oil as normal.
Stained wood is a little more involved as the grain filled parts need to be coloured. Here, the simplest process is: stain; grain fill with Tru-oil sealer / filler (which dries see-thru); sand down to bare wood; restain; finish as above.
Larger fills need a proper paste grain filler - use Timbermate (sold in UK as Metolux 'Premium Joiners Grade 1 part wood filler' Stainable (either light or med/dark) and mix a little of your stain with it. Apply, sand, stain, varnish.

Hope this helps
Andy

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[quote name='EdwardHimself' timestamp='1317568083' post='1391815']
It might be just the photos, but it does just seem to look round the edges as if it's not quite as smooth as it could be?
[/quote]
You are being very diplomatic but yes - absolutely - the edges are a little rougher than they should be :) Nothing to do with the photo, I'm afraid, but happily hardly noticeable on the real thing unless you hold to the light in a slightly odd way. The reason is simple - in our slightly dusty house (cat, kids, etc, etc) getting the final coat on the top without any dust bugs is a pain and I have to make a decision every time of 'leave it now Rogers, the top isn't going to get any better', regardless of small flaws elsewhere. Before this is handed over, I will be using some flour-paper to take the tops off and polish with Auto Glym car polish...

(General please note - I find Auto Glym is great for polishing areas of poly or nitro, but never use it more generally with a Tru Oil finish - it's OK to hide very small blemishes but on larger areas takes the shine right off :) )

Andy

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Hi
To be honest, the ink absorbs so well and the colour is so strong that an even finish isn't a problem. I just use a piece if rag pulled round into a ball, give it a good soaking and then just smooth it on. Each coat deepens the colour and evens out any variations. Mind you, best to wear the Marigolds! The strat just needed two coats, one straight after the other.

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  • 2 weeks later...

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1317575132' post='1391928'] You are being very diplomatic but yes - absolutely - the edges are a little rougher than they should be :) Nothing to do with the photo, I'm afraid, but happily hardly noticeable on the real thing unless you hold to the light in a slightly odd way. The reason is simple - in our slightly dusty house (cat, kids, etc, etc) getting the final coat on the top without any dust bugs is a pain and I have to make a decision every time of 'leave it now Rogers, the top isn't going to get any better', regardless of small flaws elsewhere. Before this is handed over, I will be using some flour-paper to take the tops off and polish with Auto Glym car polish... (General please note - I find Auto Glym is great for polishing areas of poly or nitro, but never use it more generally with a Tru Oil finish - it's OK to hide very small blemishes but on larger areas takes the shine right off :) ) Andy[/quote]

aah yes. That dust is a bitch.

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[quote name='EdwardHimself' timestamp='1318689445' post='1405258']

aah yes. That dust is a bitch.
[/quote]

It certainly is :) . Mind you, it all cleaned up and polished up nicely - the chap I did it for was (phew!) delighted with it :)

By the way, I found another useful household item - 'Camp' liquid coffee (you know, the one in a bottle your mother used to make coffee cake with) - great to mix in with Timbermate stainable wood filler and I reckon would make a pretty good antique stain in its own right. Anyone want to offer their beloved bass as a guinea-pig? :)

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