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Fender JV P bass


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The guy is very correct in stating that it is a Fender JV (non-export) not a Squier JV and has loads of high res images... though not so many that show the whole of the length of the fingerboard from straight on; can you see why? :)

[url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160658995674?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_19905wt_1163"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160658995674?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_19905wt_1163[/url]

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[quote name='Clarky' timestamp='1318176460' post='1398852']
as in G string falling off edge of board?
[/quote]
I'd say so, a misaligned neck for sure. Not unfixable but if you were buying a MIJ P bass and paying top money you'd want the neck lined up; I'd be bitterly disappointed if I bought that without noticing or the seller describing that issue.

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[quote name='warwickhunt' timestamp='1318178385' post='1398894']
[b]I'd say so, a misaligned neck for sure[/b]. Not unfixable but if you were buying a MIJ P bass and paying top money you'd want the neck lined up; I'd be bitterly disappointed if I bought that without noticing or the seller describing that issue.
[/quote]
Actually (he said twiddling his moustache) it's a misaligned bridge that's the problem. Check out where the strings go over the pups. :)

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[quote name='Johnston' timestamp='1318179897' post='1398918']
Is it actually a misaligned bridge or has someone used the wrong groove on the threaded saddles to try and get a wider spacing or just cocked up a string change?
[/quote]
To get that G string far enough off the edge of the board you'd then 'seriously' have it misaligned over the saddle! :)

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[quote name='Johnston' timestamp='1318179897' post='1398918']
Is it actually a misaligned bridge or has someone used the wrong groove on the threaded saddles to try and get a wider spacing or just cocked up a string change?
[/quote]
I think if this one were adjusted at the saddle, that as soon as you start playing it the strings will pop back again to where they are now.
It's a new bridge (or the same one repositioned) for this baby I'm afraid.

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This is a very rare, 1st year, JV Precision, it's a domestic version i know, but even so, very sought after, especially in this condition. 15 minutes with a screwdriver, and a little care will have this problem sorted, and for the current price of £500, is still a great buy for someone.

Well spotted though, i looked at this when it was first listed (I hoped it was going to be an export model with small Squire decal), and totally missed that!!

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[quote name='Rick's Fine '52' timestamp='1318192163' post='1399110']
This is a very rare, 1st year, JV Precision, it's a domestic version i know, but even so, very sought after, especially in this condition. 15 minutes with a screwdriver, and a little care will have this problem sorted, and for the current price of £500, is still a great buy for someone.

Well spotted though, i looked at this when it was first listed (I hoped it was going to be an export model with small Squire decal), and totally missed that!!
[/quote]
Hi Rick. I'd be very interested in hearing you're technique regarding fixing this with a screwdriver in 15 minutes.

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[quote name='EssentialTension' timestamp='1318177471' post='1398879']
It's not drilled for the tugbar and for the pickup and bridge ashtrays. Should it be?
[/quote]

Domestic JV's, certainly after May '82 didnt have thumbrests or chrome covers fitted.

Export JV's had these features until May '82, when Fender USA put a stop to it, and switched the large fender/small squire decals round, at the same time.

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[quote name='Rick's Fine '52' timestamp='1318194234' post='1399149']

Domestic JV's, certainly after May '82 didnt have thumbrests or chrome covers fitted.

Export JV's had these features until May '82, when Fender USA put a stop to it, and switched the large fender/small squire decals round, at the same time.
[/quote]
Ok, but this one has the pickguard holes for tugbar and pickup cover but the body is not drilled beneath the pickguard. What do you make of that?

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[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1318193237' post='1399131']
Hi Rick. I'd be very interested in hearing you're technique regarding fixing this with a screwdriver in 15 minutes.
[/quote]

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1318193237' post='1399131']
Hi Rick. I'd be very interested in hearing you're technique regarding fixing this with a screwdriver in 15 minutes.
[/quote]

I think you know anyway, as you mentioned it in earlier post, just re-align the bridge. Before re-drilling though, i'd put two matchsticks in each of the existing screw holes, located on the side of the hole you want to move the bridge over, this will give you a 2mm gain, then , when stringing, put them as far over on the threaded saddles as you can, they won't slip once under tension, and see how that works. If it still needs more, then it will mean re-drilling additional bridge fixing holes, not the end of the world though, and not visible once the bridge is back on.
I've only done this once before (Not on a Fender), and it didnt take long, and worked perfectly. The holes may be in the black section of the burst, so easily filled, painted, fine spray of nitro aerosol on the top, nice buff, and should be masked quite well.

One thing i will say, is if you're paying top dollar for a bass, then you wouldnt expect this problem, and i wouldnt advise buying one at full price that needed this doing (re-drilling etc), but if you are potentially getting it at a very good price, then it would be well worth this small mod.

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[quote name='EssentialTension' timestamp='1318194530' post='1399156']
Ok, but this one has the pickguard holes for tugbar and pickup cover but the body is not drilled beneath the pickguard. What do you make of that?
[/quote]

Normal. The scratchplates are made pre-drilled, I've never seen a gold anodized guard appear un-drilled. All the replacement ones you see advertised all come pre-drilled, maybe becuase they are metal, dunno, never really thought about it. I've never seen an un-drilled gold guard though. Have you?

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[quote name='Rick's Fine '52' timestamp='1318195745' post='1399174']

Normal. The scratchplates are made pre-drilled, I've never seen a gold anodized guard appear un-drilled. All the replacement ones you see advertised all come pre-drilled, maybe becuase they are metal, dunno, never really thought about it. I've never seen an un-drilled gold guard though. Have you?
[/quote]
Well, on a 57 RI I don't recall but the gold guards on the old American Deluxes are not drilled.



I realise that's a different guard/different shape.

Edited by EssentialTension
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[quote name='Rick's Fine '52' timestamp='1318194841' post='1399162']



I think you know anyway, as you mentioned it in earlier post, just re-align the bridge. Before re-drilling though, i'd put two matchsticks in each of the existing screw holes, located on the side of the hole you want to move the bridge over, this will give you a 2mm gain, then , when stringing, put them as far over on the threaded saddles as you can, they won't slip once under tension, and see how that works. If it still needs more, then it will mean re-drilling additional bridge fixing holes, not the end of the world though, and not visible once the bridge is back on.
I've only done this once before (Not on a Fender), and it didnt take long, and worked perfectly. The holes may be in the black section of the burst, so easily filled, painted, fine spray of nitro aerosol on the top, nice buff, and should be masked quite well.

One thing i will say, is if you're paying top dollar for a bass, then you wouldnt expect this problem, and i wouldnt advise buying one at full price that needed this doing (re-drilling etc), but if you are potentially getting it at a very good price, then it would be well worth this small mod.
[/quote]
Unfortunately Rick, packing out the existing holes will only effectively reduce their internal diameter and because of the nature of the countersunk screw heads this will not allow the bridge to sit in any other position than where it is right now. Also if you reduce the internal diameter of the holes where the screws were perfectly happy before, you risk snapping the screws under torque when you send them back in or take them out again. The existing saddle type are not conducive for string correction as the grooves are too shallow - a or 2 notch either side of the natural fall will likely be ok but any further outside of that and the vibration under playing will just ping it right back.
Which takes us back to what I was saying before, the way to correct this is to either fit a different bridge with better lateral adjustment or you reposition the current bridge correctly ie. plugging the holes and re-drilling - which would be my personal preference.

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[quote]
Which takes us back to what I was saying before, the way to correct this is to either fit a different bridge with better lateral adjustment or you reposition the current bridge correctly ie. plugging the holes and re-drilling - which would be my personal preference.
[/quote]

Just like i said then, if packing doesnt work, re-locate the bridge. :)

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[quote name='Rick's Fine '52' timestamp='1318192163' post='1399110']
...and for the current price of £500, is still a great buy for someone.
[/quote]
Technically £640 at present when you add on the £120 shipping and where do you stand with regard to import duty/taxes from Japan? With 6hrs to go it could go up further but I'd say that £640 +taxes isn't exactly cheap!

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[quote name='Rick's Fine '52' timestamp='1318196652' post='1399187']

Just like i said then, if packing doesnt work, re-locate the bridge. :)
[/quote]
Sorry, my bad. I thought you said "[i]15 minutes with a screwdriver, and a little care will have this problem sorted[/i]" straight after I had just suggested that repositioning the bridge was one of the two viable options available. I'll get myself down to Specsavers tomorrow. :)

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