KiOgon Posted November 10, 2011 Share Posted November 10, 2011 This came through from Stewart MacDonald in their newsletter & I thought it might be worth sharing ;-) [url="http://www.stewmac.com/tradesecrets/ts0151_polystripping.hzml?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=ts0151"]http://www.stewmac.com/tradesecrets/ts0151_polystripping.hzml?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=ts0151[/url] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 Great Link! This is, indeed, how I do mine . Both poly and nitro (I suppose impressively) is an absolute sod to get off any other way. However, the wood often burns before the covering bubbles so it needs to be done with great care - especially on the edges and in the cut-out curves. This is no great problem if it's going to be veneered or sprayed, but leads to considerable sanding for any natural or stained finish - the burn 'bruise' goes deep! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henry norton Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 Just (cough) don't (wheeze) forget (splutter) to (ahem) wear (hack) a (gasp) proper (rasp) mask......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LawrenceH Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1321002963' post='1434149'] Great Link! This is, indeed, how I do mine . However, the wood often burns before the covering bubbles so it needs to be done with great care - especially on the edges and in the cut-out curves [/quote] I've posted what I think is a better way before and linked to several times but...the reason the heat gun burns the wood is it is TOO hot. It doesn't actually need to be that hot to soften the poly enough to scrape off with relative ease. I used a tresemme hairdryer on hottest setting to strip a thick MIM poly finish. Soft, easily scrapable but no bubbling, fumes or burn marks. Takes probably a little more patience but for the lack of mess and total lack of burns on the wood it's worth it. That is my only useful contribution to the world of guitar building. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 [quote name='LawrenceH' timestamp='1321012151' post='1434314'] I've posted what I think is a better way before and linked to several times but...the reason the heat gun burns the wood is it is TOO hot. It doesn't actually need to be that hot to soften the poly enough to scrape off with relative ease. I used a tresemme hairdryer on hottest setting to strip a thick MIM poly finish. Soft, easily scrapable but no bubbling, fumes or burn marks. Takes probably a little more patience but for the lack of mess and total lack of burns on the wood it's worth it. That is my only useful contribution to the world of guitar building. [/quote] But a very useful contribution nonetheless I do agree, and this is a great tip - although it doesn't always cut the mustard. My heat-gun has a high and low setting - wherever possible I use the low and, as you rightly say, it often softens it enough to get the scraper under and rarely scorches the wood. But some finishes are just not touched by it and seem to need the city-lights-dimming-eco-system-destroying-mega-tega-bega-watt treatment . Whether that's nitro vs poly I can't be sure, I just know that serious heat is all that seems to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Apple Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 Saved. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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