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Status Bass Users - A String Question.


Soliloquy
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I'm buying a Status S2 6 string.

I've always prefer nickel strings, to my knowledge there isn't a nickel double ball end string. Please correct me on that though :).

I could I guess use the string clamp thing, little screw things. How reliable are they, and is there any difference sound wise between using double ball end strings and normal strings with the string locks screws ?

Thanks !

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D'addario and GHS both manufacture double ball end strings with a nickel-plated steel outer wrap. Both manufacture five-string sets, although in limited gauges. Can't recall if either produce a six-string set as standard. Picato also manufacture double ball end strings with a nickel outer wrap, although limited to four-string sets. La Bella certainly produced six-string sets previously, although not sure if it does these days. It certainly supplies various bass manufacturers with strings which are factory fitted.

Alternatively, you could investigate Optima, which manufactures gold-plated steel outer wraps in a vast range of gauges and sets (as well as supplying custom sets to order).

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I've just put some single ball ends on my streamline. Works well enough with the clamp. The main issue was with the bridge saddles. The E and A were taper cored on the original hotwires, and plain gauge strings sit too high, so either ensure your new strings are t.c. or it may be that the file will have to come out.

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[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1322480032' post='1451196']

[indent=1]If you use the clamp system and snip off the excess with pliers, then you will eventually draw blood ...[/indent]
[/quote]

True, unless you are very careful about cutting the ends such that they run beneath the grub screws but don't extend beyond the end of the headpiece.
I used a pair of bicycle brake cable cutters. More than a match for even the heaviest gauge of string, and a nice clean cut, too.

edit - still haven't answered the OP's question! Sorry!
No. there's no discernable change between single or double ball-end. The Zero fret pretty much helps take care of that, as it governs scale length and string height at the head end (in the same way as a nut does on a non-zero-fretted, headed bass)
The clamp grub screws are well up to the job. A good size, and will easily take enough torque from an allen key to properly secure the string. If you examine them carefully, you'll see that the bottom of the grub screw has been machined flat into a round pad. This helps to exert a good deal of pressure on the secured part of the string, and spread it over quite a large area (relatively). Mine hasn't caused me any problems since I did it, and I'm still getting the same sort of tuning stability as before (excellent)
Hotwires are pretty okay, and not too expensive. I'm surprised that Nickels aren't available, as they do Hotwires in every gauge under the sun in round, ground and flats.
I've just put Overwater steel rounds on the Streamline (.038 .058 .078 .098) and they're very good indeed.

Rob has said in the past that experiments have been done with round-cored double ball-ended strings, but the windings come undone for some reason. The clamp would fix that, so I might put DR Hi-beam/Fatbeams on next time out (though TI Power Jazz remain tempting) I don't think I'd put Sunbeams on, though (Nickels), as I think Steels seem to suit it better (for my preference, anyway)

What strings were you considering?

Edited by Lfalex v1.1
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I'd concur with pretty much everything above - beware sharp ends! Tuning perfectly stable using the grub screws.

I recently bought a couple of sets of Trace Elliot DBE 5 nickel medium lights from MonkMusic - see the ebay ads. They have a load of NOS sets - they're in great condition - you'd still need a C from somewhere but I bought two of the sets for £17 total (including post and packing). A very good deal and the strings are in perfect condition.

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