Billy Apple Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 (edited) I've just bought a Mighty Mite P neck for my Bitsa P build. Need to drill the holes for the neck screws and fit to body. Not fitted a neck from scratch like this before, but I'm pretty competent with wood and tools. Anyone have any tips or secrets to ensure a smooth bolt-on? Thanks edit: spelling Edited January 12, 2012 by billyapple Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjones Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 (edited) [quote name='billyapple' timestamp='1326318808' post='1495530'] I've just bought a Mighty Mite P neck for my Bitsa P build. Need to drill the holes for the neck screws and fit to body. Not fitted a neck from scratch like this before, but I'm pretty competent with wood and tools. Anyone have any tips or secrets to ensure a smooth bolt-on? Thanks edit: spelling [/quote] Don't tell anybody but I bought a mighty mite neck recently and, because I don't have a drill, just slotted the neck into the body pocket (making sure it was a good tight fit) and using just brute force and ignorance, screwed the screws through the neckplate into the neck. Plays great and is a tight fit. I shall be told off for doing this..............I know I will. Edited January 11, 2012 by gjones Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigjohn Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 You should be told off for doing that, but I won't. I put the neck in the pocket and used the screws to mark where the holes should be. Then drilled holes. Then put wood glue on the screws and bolted the neck on. Lovely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horizontalste Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Just check and check again that it is straight, a little lateral movement at the heel will equal much more at the headstock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gary mac Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 [quote name='bigjohn' timestamp='1326320063' post='1495559'] Then put wood glue on the screws and bolted the neck on. Lovely. [/quote] Really? Why? Not looking to be argumentative, just can't see the need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor J Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Put the neck in the pocket, see how tight it is. Put on your two outer strings to make sure the neck is aligned correctly - you don't have to tighten them (or even use strings for that matter, some twine will do), you just want a straight line from the bridge to the nut to see the path of the strings. Once the neck is aligned use the neck attachment screws through the holes in the body to mark the butt of the neck then - very importantly - [b]drill pilot holes in the neck[/b] for the screws. You risk cracking the neck if you just force the screws in. It's simple enough to do but, if you get it wrong, it can be hard to undo and reset. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigjohn Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 [quote name='gary mac' timestamp='1326353803' post='1495754'] Really? Why? Not looking to be argumentative, just can't see the need. [/quote] It's not to glue the screws in, it's just something I do. The glue sets harder than the the wood, so next time you take the screw out and put it back in, you're not biting at the wood, there's a hardened wood glue thread. Takes 5 seconds and is something I do when working with wood and screws, often even if I don't think I'll be taking it apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Foxen Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 I use a speed clamp to hold the neck in, align it with a spring, drill the holes I can get at, then screw those in, take off the clamp, check alignment again, and do the other holes/screws. Also mark the drill so you only go the right depth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Apple Posted January 12, 2012 Author Share Posted January 12, 2012 Thanks guys. This is all great stuff. Now my weekend project is sorted. Good idea with the strings Doc, and I've got clamps at the ready Mr F. Tell you what, I put the machine heads (erm, tuners) on last night.I drilled pilot holes, and the wood was rock-solid, and that was with an 18V Makita LXT. I cant imagine how you would screw neck bolts directly into the wood. I'm not telling you off, Gjones, but you've clearly got hands and forearms like King Kong, and I aint getting on the wrong side of you (Sir)! . But so far I've been very impressed with the wood and build quality of the neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_bass5 Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 [quote name='bigjohn' timestamp='1326368884' post='1496064'] It's not to glue the screws in, it's just something I do. The glue sets harder than the the wood, so next time you take the screw out and put it back in, you're not biting at the wood, there's a hardened wood glue thread. Takes 5 seconds and is something I do when working with wood and screws, often even if I don't think I'll be taking it apart. [/quote] This seems like a good idea. I have to take my Lakland neck off to adjust the truss rod so its been on and off my bass about 5-6 times recently, sounds liek a bit of wood glue will help keep things nice and tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danhkr Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Just to hijack the thread for a moment (because it's pretty current), I'm thinking of getting a mighty mite P neck for a MIM std P body (2004). Aside from drilling the holes, is the neck likely to fit straight in, or are any additional adjustments/routing likely to be required? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Apple Posted January 13, 2012 Author Share Posted January 13, 2012 [quote name='danhkr' timestamp='1326465840' post='1497598'] Just to hijack the thread for a moment (because it's pretty current), I'm thinking of getting a mighty mite P neck for a MIM std P body (2004). Aside from drilling the holes, is the neck likely to fit straight in, or are any additional adjustments/routing likely to be required? [/quote] My neck slotted into the pocket very snug, tight but no jamming. There was no real gap at all around the curve of the neck and the body. I'm not bothering with any unnecessary routing, I thought the fit was pretty damn good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Foxen Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 I dip screw ends in vaseline cause you get some juddering which scares me, having snapped screws in maple before. Much worse with painted screws on my black bass. Candle wax is probably better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Apple Posted February 1, 2012 Author Share Posted February 1, 2012 Using the above advice and tips I have successfully fitted the neck. Put the E and G on, the neck held itself pretty well. Did some fine lining up, and put a speed clamp on the bottom of the neck and body. Using the screws got the holes marked on the neck. Drilled pilot holes, measuring the amount of screw proud from the body, and marking that off on my bit with tape. Held the neck flat on my work-bench, and taped a small spirit level on the Makita to help keeping it straight. Bolted up spot-on first time. The body already had been shimmed, but the action was a little high beyond the 12th, and the Badass saddles were very low. I've put a business card shim in, which had given great fast action to the 12th, but is a bit buzzy beyond, now I've got the right Allen from Maplins, I can raise the saddles on the E&A. The TR only needed a few turns to the right, and has been spot on. I'm V impressed with this neck, all the frets seem level, straight, responsive TR, and good quality and finish. I'd heard gripes about the fret-dots and nut, but I've got no problems with them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonestar Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 Ive just taken delivery of a lovely used mighty mite neck from Nick on here and the screw holes all line up with the ones in my sx body but leaving about 1/8 inch gap between the end of the neck heel and the neck pocket which is annoying. Presumably it a case of drilling and filling with dowels and drilling new holes ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 (edited) [quote name='lonestar' timestamp='1362168705' post='1996817'] Ive just taken delivery of a lovely used mighty mite neck from Nick on here and the screw holes all line up with the ones in my sx body but leaving about 1/8 inch gap between the end of the neck heel and the neck pocket which is annoying. Presumably it a case of drilling and filling with dowels and drilling new holes ? [/quote] General idea here.... [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vgtgcIlFGrs[/media] Edited March 1, 2013 by nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonestar Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 (edited) Thank Nick thats the plan. i have Dan Erlwine's book Edited March 1, 2013 by lonestar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRISDABASS Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 [quote name='Billy Apple' timestamp='1328124970' post='1522310'] Using the above advice and tips I have successfully fitted the neck. Put the E and G on, the neck held itself pretty well. Did some fine lining up, and put a speed clamp on the bottom of the neck and body. Using the screws got the holes marked on the neck. Drilled pilot holes, measuring the amount of screw proud from the body, and marking that off on my bit with tape. Held the neck flat on my work-bench, and taped a small spirit level on the Makita to help keeping it straight. Bolted up spot-on first time. The body already had been shimmed, but the action was a little high beyond the 12th, and the Badass saddles were very low. I've put a business card shim in, which had given great fast action to the 12th, but is a bit buzzy beyond, now I've got the right Allen from Maplins, I can raise the saddles on the E&A. The TR only needed a few turns to the right, and has been spot on. I'm V impressed with this neck, all the frets seem level, straight, responsive TR, and good quality and finish. I'd heard gripes about the fret-dots and nut, but I've got no problems with them [/quote] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRISDABASS Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 [quote name='Billy Apple' timestamp='1328124970' post='1522310'] Using the above advice and tips I have successfully fitted the neck. Put the E and G on, the neck held itself pretty well. Did some fine lining up, and put a speed clamp on the bottom of the neck and body. Using the screws got the holes marked on the neck. Drilled pilot holes, measuring the amount of screw proud from the body, and marking that off on my bit with tape. Held the neck flat on my work-bench, and taped a small spirit level on the Makita to help keeping it straight. Bolted up spot-on first time. The body already had been shimmed, but the action was a little high beyond the 12th, and the Badass saddles were very low. I've put a business card shim in, which had given great fast action to the 12th, but is a bit buzzy beyond, now I've got the right Allen from Maplins, I can raise the saddles on the E&A. The TR only needed a few turns to the right, and has been spot on. I'm V impressed with this neck, all the frets seem level, straight, responsive TR, and good quality and finish. I'd heard gripes about the fret-dots and nut, but I've got no problems with them [/quote] There's a great little trick to solve the buzzing on the higher notes of bolt on necks! You need to add a little "fall away" to the frets in that area so each one from around the 12th or maybe 14th onwards is a tiny bit lower than the one before it! (We're talking thousanths of an inch) It's simple to do with a small levelling block! To be honest i have no idea why all necks of this style dont have this built into them?!! If you wanna give it a try let me know and i'll go into more detail Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonestar Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 I've now fitted my SX P bass with the Mighty Mite neck that I bought from Nick. I'm really pleased with the results. This is how I did it. 1. I took of the old neck and tried the MM one for size. Not a bad fit but with one crew in the existing 4 holes lined up perfectly however there was a 1/8' gap at the heel. 2. So I drilled out the neck screw holes with a 6mm bit and glued wooden dowels to fill the holes last week. 3. Today I sawed the dowels off and levelled the ends with a very sharp chisel. 4. I placed the neck in the body and making sure it was butted tight into the end of the socket marked the new screw holes with a 3mm bit and hand drill. 5. I drilled the screw holes with the neck, body and back plate in place, having marked the depth on the drill bit ( measurement taken from the old neck + body holes) with masking tape. 6. Rubbed a bit of candle wax on the screws and screwed the neck on checking all was lined up; It was ! 7. Removed the Gotoh tuners from the old SX neck. Some of the screwheads had been buggered up by the person who fitted them originally so I had to cut slots with a mini hacksaw and use a flat blade screwdriver. 8. Fitted the lovely Gotoh '70s tuners. I had to re-drill the screw holes onto the MM neck. I'd have replaced the screws if I had spare but couldn't wait. 9. Restrung, adjusted the intonation, truss rod and action. !0. All done. I now have an SX body Mighty Mite neck, Wizard Thumper, pickup, CTS pots and gotoh tuners P bass and it's lovely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.