G&L body project

[rubis]

Just got this delivered today. It's a G&L2500 body I found on Gumtree for a very reasonable £15. The neck pocket says July 03. Not sure if it's from an American model or a Tribute (which I think are non-American)

It still has the string ferrules but nothing else, and the lacquer has lots of very fine scratches on it.
I'm hoping that the finish will polish up OK, there is one shallow dent on the upper horn but I can live with that......the best thing is there are no breaks or cracks in the finish.

I'm not intending to try to clone a G&L2500, but this has saved me some time and work as I was about to start on a 5 string Stingray style build. I have a pickup and electronics from a Dean bass (Sledgehammer I think) which will do for starters, some Shaller BM's and I will make a neck to fit it.

I have a couple of fingerboards I could use, one rosewood and one ebony, I'm thinking the rosewood one looks better, the ebony I think I will keep for a second (fretted) neck for my ongoing Blingray build.
Or maybe an all maple neck and fingerboard would look best.......any suggestions?

I will need to get a string through bridge for it as well, can anyone recommend one. I like the look of Hipshot A style which is availabe as string through, but they are a bit pricey over here.....are they worth the extra?
I could, at a push, drill a suitable non-string through bridge and adapt it.

I will add a second pickup later, but for now I want to get it up and going. If I like the end results enough I will change the electrics for better quality ones.

[Rumple]

Tis a bargain indeed!

I have bought a couple of Hipshot Type A bridges from the US on ebay and not got stung for import duty or VAT which meant a reasonable price for a lovely bridge, it a bit of a gamble though, if customs do pick it up you also get a processing charge.

Look forward to seeing this come together.

[throwoff]

Im going out on a limb and saying that may well be USA.

And a complete and utter bargain.

[rubis]

[attachment=98386:Picture.jpg]A little bit of progress to show.
I have made a neck blank, it's a 5 piece laminate of maple and walnut. I'm going all out for rigidity here, the maple is almost perfectly quartersawn and I will be adding carbon rods either side of the truss rods.
I used this method on a fretless neck for my other current bass build which is a stingray style and it worked out quite well.

I'm going with the rosewood fingerboard, it's marked out ready for slotting, and I will probably put a maple headstock veneer on the front because although I like the look of a laminated neck from the rear I'm not so keen on the walnut stripes on the heastock, I prefer a cleaner look ( even though I used to own a Wal which I adored ! ).


I've started flattening the scratched lacquer. Quite odd this one, there are no marks or scratches on the sides, no buckle rash or button scratches on the tummy cut, but loads of scuffs and scratches on the front and back. It's almost as if it was taken apart and the body stored inbetween something.

I've been looking at bridges too, I found this one on e-bay, from Black Dog Music. It's the correct dimensions, string spacing etc. and can be through body or back strung, so I could experiment with string tensions.
It's reasonably priced, looks solid and quite adjustable and its made by Sung IL (I've at least heard of them!)
Anyone got experince of this bridge or Black Dog Music?
[url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Quality-5-string-Bass-guitar-bridge-BB405-Black-Gold-Chrome-Sung-Il-five-/370565633821?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&var=&hash=item95041c48ba"]http://www.ebay.co.u...=item95041c48ba[/url]

[Rumple]

Looks like a pretty good bridge for the money, worth a punt for sure, darn sight cheaper then a Hipshot Type A which is similar.

[rubis]

Not much to update this weekend, it's been too wet and cold down here and as I'm doing this in the garage ( at least while the current Mrs Rubis is in residence ) I haven't achieved as much as I'd hoped for.

I have routed for the carbon rods and epoxied them into place. I had to shorten the truss rod as it was a wee bit too long and then re-weld the end. I've put the truss rod in with some silicon sealant ( supposed to stop it rattling around ) and I made a sort of collar out of some thin metal tubing I had lying around which goes over the adjuster-nut-thing on the end of the truss rod. This is also epoxied into place and will be trimmed down to match the curved contour on the headstock before the veneer goes on. I've seen some basses with plastic tubing in the same fashion but I didn't have any so metal will do ( from an old clothes airer ! ) it will be out of sight anyway.

Next is step the headstock veneer, because of its dimensions I'm not sure if it will allow a 4+1 layout or if it will have to be 3+2, not that fussed either way but i won't be copying the G&L profile, it's a bit too ornate for me.
I've got some Rapid Oil which is a gunstock oil similar to Tru Oil but without the slight tint which Tru Oil has. Looking forward to trying this as I'e read great things about this kind of finish. I have a telecaster which I'm building with a converted Warmoth strat neck so I'm going to practice on that first. It's birdseye maple and the lady in the gunshop says the figure will really pop with this finish.

More to come......

[LukeFRC]

you could copy the original g and l headstock?

[StraightSix]

[quote name='rubis' timestamp='1328472641' post='1527724']
...the lady in the gunshop says the figure will really pop with this finish.
[/quote]



Interesting project...thanks for sharing.

[rubis]

[quote]

Posted Today, 08:14 PM
you could copy the original g and l headstock?

[/quote]

....not sure which one you mean, but this is the style which I'm not so keen on[attachment=99339:130_3093.jpg]

....and I'll probably go for something between a Musicman style or Yamaha style or this G&L style, which I think looks a bit more elegant
[attachment=99340:L1000headstock.jpg]

[lettsguitars]

Black dog are very good indeed. Not sure about those A-style copies though. As me mate says "is it monkey metal?", yes it is. The hipshot stuff is quality and you get what you pay for. I order a lot from hipshot at a good price. pm me if you want owt.

Edited February 7, 2012 by lettsguitars

[LukeFRC]

[quote name='rubis' timestamp='1328481132' post='1527947']
....not sure which one you mean, but this is the style which I'm not so keen on[attachment=99339:130_3093.jpg]

....and I'll probably go for something between a Musicman style or Yamaha style or this G&L style, which I think looks a bit more elegant
[attachment=99340:L1000headstock.jpg]
[/quote]second one is the one I mean

[StraightSix]

...or maybe something tele-esque...?

[rubis]

Love telecasters, I'm pottering about with 3 tele builds at athe moment, but I don't think the headstock would look right wtih 5 tuners on it.
I'm coming round to the look of the Lakland shape, maybe a bit if this, it's close to a Musicman which I like


[attachment=99468:55U-3939_headstock-front.jpg]

[Rumple]

I'm a big fan of the Lakland 5 headstock as you can tell from my 5 strng Jazz I put together, traditional looking but the 3+2 layout means the headstock doesn't have to be too long.

[rubis]

A little bit more progress to show, I haven't had as much time to devote to things this week, got some done today though, and some was done a few days ago.

I did the fret slots with my B&Q handydandy fret slotting machine....does the job ok!

[attachment=100212:Picture 508.jpg]

I took a picture of the sawdust form this fretboard....weird stuff it, looks like rust when you brush it off of something with a wire brush...lovely colour IMHO! It's rosewood of some sort from Prime Timbers, I think Andy called it Monkey Rope or something like that because of the markings on it.

[attachment=100213:Picture 512.jpg]

I managed to lay out a 4+1 headstock......only just!

[attachment=100210:Picture 511.jpg]

and used the fretless neck I started on for my other project as a sort of template

[attachment=100211:Picture 514.jpg]

I also did the access hole to get at the truss rod adjuster nut.......I 'd like to pretend that this went without a hiccup but I'd be lying! I thought I was being clever by putting a ball of masking tape inside the metal tube which covers the adjuster thing...to keep the glue from the headstock veneer form fouling it up. However the masking tape proved stickier than Sticky the stick insect and I couldn't pick it all out through the hole that I' carefully filed through. I lost patience after a while and removed the truss rod which meant I could pick it out easily and then goo the truss rod back in with more silicon. Good job I hadn't glued the fingerboard on at that piont or I'd still be tweezering away at it now!

Hope to get some more done this weekend.....I'll post some more if your interested!

[StraightSix]

[quote name='rubis' timestamp='1329508062' post='1543718']
.....I'll post some more if your interested!
[/quote]

Yes please...

[Rumple]

Bring it on

[sprocket123]

[quote name='Rumple' timestamp='1329509057' post='1543741']
Bring it on
[/quote]


+1

[rubis]

Sorry I haven't updated this thread for a little while, I've had router problems so the computor has been out of use, back now!
I meant to say earlier that I appologise if you've read all these things previously, I'd hate to insult anyones intelligence but I find myself that build threads which show even the most obvious steps are the ones I learn the most from.
Anyway!

The next job was to glue on the fretboard, nothing worth seeing there, just a bunch of clamps! Only thing worth a mention was that I left the neck and fingerboard too long so that I could use a couple of pins to position the board whilst glueing, I actually used a Kerplunk straw and made two holes at each end, two beyond the end of the fingerboard which you can just about see in this pic
[attachment=100987:Picture 523.jpg]
and two inside the nut slot area, these won't be visible later.
Then the edge of the neck was trimmed down and the radius sanded on with a 10" radius sanding block
[attachment=100968:Picture 517.jpg]
I marked the fingerboard with chalk and just went to sand off the chalk as evenly as I could, any high spots were highlighted further and rubbed out.
[attachment=100969:Picture 518.jpg]
I used 60 grit stuck on the sanding block with double sided tape
Then I stuck in the dot markers, gold MOP, and used superglue mixed with some of that wierd rusty sawdust, which looks even more odd when it's stuck to the ends of your fingers!
[attachment=100972:Picture 519.jpg]
Then I sanded the fingerboard and markers a bit more! I worked down from 60 grit to 1000 and I must say the board looks nice, should be better with some oil on it
Those with eagle eyes may notice that the nuts in the picture are for a tapered headstock design, I ordered three graphite ones and these came by mistake. I didn't have time to send them back as one was needed quickly on my p-bass copy so I just sanded it down into shape.. .came out ok though.
Next job was the frets....I must admit I have never done any fretwork other than polishing and mild leveling and I was not looking forward to it (still not, cuz I'm not finished yet!)
I used another handydandy device borrowed from a bloke on the TDPRI site.. he builds some awesome telecasters so if it's good enough for him......
[attachment=100976:Picture 520.jpg]
You basically put a nick in a piece of wood for the tang of the fret to run through and then drag the wire through the wood with a slight upward lift, the same way you curl ribbon up when you're wrapping a xmas present. It works best starting from the middle and I found that you get a smoother curve by starting with very little pressure and then increasing the pressure and then easing off at the end (like feathering your braking for all of us chauffeur-like drivers!) It worked surprisingly well I have to say
[attachment=100983:Picture 521.jpg]
The frets were then cut to length and I made a little nick in each end with a dremel which was a fart-on but I'm hoping it will give the edges of the fingerboard a tidier look, the idea being that you fill the little gaps with sawdust and glue and you can't see the fret ends.
[attachment=100985:Picture 525.jpg]
The fret slots had to be re-cut and radiused so I used carpet tape again to stick a spacer on the side of my saw which makes the cuts at the required depth, just like the hideously overpriced Stew MacDonald stuff, more Old MacDonald actually! I held the saw up against the sanding block to keep it square and carefully re-did them, worked a treat!
[attachment=100986:Picture 526.jpg]
I used a similar method to cut the fret slots and also the nut slot before the board had been radiused actually but I didn't take any pictures, only difference being I used a flat block of wood clamped to the board.
So that's it so far, lots more to do, I'll be back

[sprocket123]

You re doing great rubis , look forward to your next post

[rubis]

Hi everyone, a little bit more to show.
I have fretted the neck, its the first time I've done fretting and I must admit I wasn't looking forward to it as the potential for messing things up was a bit worrying. I did them 7 at a time and superglued them in ( I doubt that this will need a refret anytime soon so it seemed sensible ) and I used a block of softwood to press them in with clamps.
Seems to have worked well, or maybe I was just lucky but I've read so many horror stories about frettng.
[attachment=101687:Picture 527.jpg]
[attachment=101688:Picture 522.jpg]
I have started rough shaping the neck profile with rasps, lots more shaping and sanding to go yet, but I'm pleased with the neck pocket fit, a pleasant evening spent whittling and sanding!
[attachment=101694:Picture 536.jpg]
I tried the neck out for alignment using one of those DIY/garden laser levels which worked a treat. Lined it up frome the middle of the bridge to the middle of the nut and marked the neck holes.
[attachment=101695:Picture 531.jpg]
[attachment=101696:Picture 530.jpg]
In the end I opted for the bridge mentioned earlier and I'm impressed by the quality, quite weighty and a nice finish. As I understand it the Sun-il factory makes hardwear for other brand names as well.
I have routed out for the Dean MM style pickup and had to make a bit of a compromise here. The existing pickup routing was fractionally longer and narrower than the Dean pickup, so in order to get an even gap all round I was left with a slightly bigger cavity than I would have liked. Not a disaster, at some point in the future I would like to add a couple of better quality pickups anyway so the problem may be lessened or worsened anyway!
I could always fill it and repaint it!.....I'm not sure about the colour......it's a bit BMW-ish to me. I have been looking on G&L's website to try and find out the colour name. In the cavity there is a bar code and various sets of initials, one of which is BVM.
G&L did a colour called Blue Violet Metallic (not very rock and roll) but I haven't seen pictures of any basses or guitars which look the same colour.

I tried a bit of a dry fit and it looks ok, nice weight too on my dodgy shoulder!
[attachment=101697:Picture 537.jpg]

[Rumple]

Good work!

I kinda like those metallic colours, I have a cheap OLP bass in a sort of metallic teal/green/blue.

[sprocket123]

wow , nice rubis

[rubis]

I haven't updated this for a while because there has been nothing really positive to put on it!

I shaped the neck and left it purposely fat (an enlarged version of the Warmoth fatback telecaster I have and which fits my shovels nicely!)
I was thinking it's better to be too thick as too thin!
Anyway it felt nice and chunky when I was done, so I backstained it to make the grain pop some more, sanded it all off and then began to give it some coats of oil.
Now this is where fortune took over and it became obvious that it was giong Benidorm brown, just like Madge in the buggy!
Despite the lady who sold me the oil saying it was clear, it's obviously not and I don't like it at all, but fortune was about to intervene again as despite measuring several times before drilling for the tuners, once I strung up it was obvious that a couple of tuners need moving, not by much at all but enough for it to bug the s*** out of me.
For what its worth here are the pictures that I did take, I haven't took any more and probably won't till it looks better (unless you want something to laugh at)
[attachment=104546:Picture 544.jpg]
[attachment=104547:Picture 539.jpg]

So what I will be doing next is slimming the neck down some more, removing all the finish and moving the offending tuners!
The long term plan will be to repaint the body, either a very dark met blue/black or just met black and I will colour match the front of the headstock
Then I tried to try out the wiring harness and could find no schematics at all on Dean basses.
EastcoastEddie on Talkbass along with a couple of kind people here, but it won't work.
I think it's Donald.
This is the point where good luck comes in because I found another cheap MM style pickup to tide me over and noticed that the very talented Tommorichards is making MM Sabre style preamps at a very reasonable price on these shores
Perfect!!!!
The G&L body has the same pots and swiches layout as the Sabre, I need something simple !
You'll do for me Tommo!
So that's it for now........It will return

[gilmour]

Good project, shame about the stain, but hopefully it will sand off.