Now I have a new problem...

[KingBollock]

Well, I'm sick to death of this new Bass already. Who said dreams can come true, eh? After finding that the action looks like a suspension bridge I lowered the bridge saddles as much as they would go, which wasn't far. I also noticed that the neck has quite a bit of relief in it. So, today, I decided to have a crack at the truss rod, but the damned nut is buggered. Where you would normally put an allen key it is totally round, nothing to grip on. I noticed that WD Music do a replacement nut: [url="http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/product/Trussrod_Nut_Cylinder_Nickel_TRN-11"]http://www.wdmusic.c...r_Nickel_TRN-11[/url] but I'm not sure how to get the current one out. I have seen these on Amazon: [url="http://www.rolsontools.com/search.asp?page=1&id=376&tt=1&ct=1&searchCat=0&searchStock=28997"]http://www.rolsontoo...archStock=28997[/url] and was wondering if they might work?

I can't find a repair place near here by looking online, I don't suppose anyone knows of somewhere near Carmarthen that could do it? How much should I expect to pay to get it fixed?

Or does anyone have any advice on how to do it myself? I tried taking photos of it but my camera won't focus in the hole, so you can't see the damage.

At this point I'm wondering if it would be possible to send it back for a full refund, though he did say he didn't take returns, I have his address I might just turn up and stick it up his ar*e. I doubt I will be buying online again, I've been totally put off.

Edited May 20, 2012 by KingBollock

[chrismuzz]

If he sold it to you like that he's stitched you up mate, you'd be within your rights to return it despite him telling you he doesn't take returns (I wonder why he says that!). If you want the bass I guess you could send him a bill for the repairs.

How did you pay for it? If its Paypal or similar, it's so easy to get a refund

[KiOgon]

What tools have you got? I'd remove the neck for best possible access, then try various screwdrivers, allen keys. torx drivers whatever fits into the damaged socket best, a straight screwdriver blade will sometimes fit across the internal hex corners enough to do the job. Failing that try a Torx, you can even attempt to get a tool in with a gentle application of hammer!. Then before trying to turn (left for loose) take the strain off the rod by applying hand pressure to the neck, then go for the best grip you can get & try, it shouldn't be that tight with no load on.

Good luck,
John

[KingBollock]

[quote name='chrismuzz' timestamp='1337448577' post='1660271']
If he sold it to you like that he's stitched you up mate, you'd be within your rights to return it despite him telling you he doesn't take returns (I wonder why he says that!). If you want the bass I guess you could send him a bill for the repairs.

How did you pay for it? If its Paypal or similar, it's so easy to get a refund
[/quote]
I paid with a debit card, I think it went through Paypal but I'm not sure, my wife did it. I'm a bit worried about having to stump up for the postage though. I paid £15 for the postage and he later said it actually cost him £40. I can't afford to just let that amount go, I struggled to pay for the damned thing in the first place, I only bought it because it's my dream Bass and I've wanted one for over 20 years.

[chrismuzz]

On a similar note, my peavey fiver has a knackered but as well... My stupid fault that was! Are truss rod nuts fairly universal in size? I'd hope to be able to replace it fairly easily... I'm using it at the moment on gigs but it is uncomfortable to play! I'll try KiOgon's tricks when it comes to actually getting the knackered one out!

[chrismuzz]

[quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1337448901' post='1660279']

I paid with a debit card, I think it went through Paypal but I'm not sure, my wife did it. I'm a bit worried about having to stump up for the postage though. I paid £15 for the postage and he later said it actually cost him £40. I can't afford to just let that amount go, I struggled to pay for the damned thing in the first place, I only bought it because it's my dream Bass and I've wanted one for over 20 years.
[/quote]

In that case, if you can't repair it cheaply I'd push for a partial refund to cover your costs! Hope you get it up and working either way, must suck to have your dream bass experience tainted by this

[KingBollock]

[quote name='KiOgon' timestamp='1337448655' post='1660275']
What tools have you got? I'd remove the neck for best possible access, then try various screwdrivers, allen keys. torx drivers whatever fits into the damaged socket best, a straight screwdriver blade will sometimes fit across the internal hex corners enough to do the job. Failing that try a Torx, you can even attempt to get a tool in with a gentle application of hammer!. Then before trying to turn (left for loose) take the strain off the rod by applying hand pressure to the neck, then go for the best grip you can get & try, it shouldn't be that tight with no load on.

Good luck,
John
[/quote]
I forgot to mention that it's a neck-through, so can't take the neck off.

Unfortunately, buying it has left us short this month so I am going to have to wait to buy tools. The hole has been sheered smooth, there is nothing to grip at all. I was wondering about cutting a slot in opposite sides and trying to get it out with a large screwdriver but I don't have one wide enough. I hadn't thought about taking the strain off the neck like that, though, that is very helpful, thanks.

[KingBollock]

[quote name='chrismuzz' timestamp='1337449081' post='1660287']
In that case, if you can't repair it cheaply I'd push for a partial refund to cover your costs! Hope you get it up and working either way, must suck to have your dream bass experience tainted by this
[/quote]
It really does suck. In all honesty I could cry. Like I say, we have struggled this month just to pay for it. I took into account bank holidays and weekends and delivery times, but even so it took far longer than it should have to get here. That was worrying, especially as he didn't tell us what was going on without us having to ask, and I didn't want to be pushy. I was chuffed to bits with the condition of it, though, it's been really well looked after and I was willing to forgive the wait, until I found this, which is a pretty major flaw.

[Ou7shined]

If the nut is really that badly damaged then it would suggest that the truss rod has some sort of problem... like it isn't turning. That being the case you should probably return it anyway.

[CBbass]

What bass is it? Jazz?

[KingBollock]

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1337450103' post='1660319']
If the nut is really that badly damaged then it would suggest that the truss rod has some sort of problem... like it isn't turning. That being the case you should probably return it anyway.
[/quote]
Erk, that's an even horribler thought.

[KingBollock]

[quote name='CBbass' timestamp='1337451413' post='1660355']
What bass is it? Jazz?
[/quote]
Promise you won't laugh? It's a B.C. Rich Warlock NT. I've wanted a Warlock for over 20 years. Last year I decided to go for it and buy the ideal one for me. I had seen one new for £499, everywhere else was asking £560+. Then I discovered that it was a discontinued model and then the place I was going to buy it from sold out. I ended up buying a Cort T-35 and a Peavey 4x10 instead. When I saw this one on Ebay I just had to have it. I think I'm cursed.

[MrTaff]

Doesn't sound like it's worth the hassle of fixing, the rod is probably knackered as well, I'd try returning it but at the end of the day it's your word against his if he claims you damaged it

Edited May 19, 2012 by MrTaff

[BassBod]

Returning it for a refund is the first thing...but if its a bass you really like....

First thing to try is getting the old nut off...finding the thread size and get a new one. Chances are WD/StewMac etc will have a replacement nut, or a luthier could find something to get the job done. If you're lucky its just been caused by a muppet using the wrong sized tool, and the rod will work properly again once its adjustable.

Take a deep breath, leave it a few days - good chance it can be sorted out.

I know its a real pain (I've got one similar waiting to be sorted!) but its not impossible.

[KingBollock]

I've found a mate of my wife's who owns a screw/bolt removal set, so I shall five that a go. I am going to ring 'round some places tomorrow to see if anyone can recommend someone to do the repair for me. If I can get it fixed for less than it would cost to return it, the return postage being unrecoverable, then I shall keep it. So I have about £40 to get it fixed. I've got a feeling it wouldn't be easy to return it anyway.

I think this nut is the one I'm looking for:

[url="http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/product/Trussrod_Nut_Cylinder_Nickel_TRN-11"]http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/product/Trussrod_Nut_Cylinder_Nickel_TRN-11[/url]

When I straightened the neck with my hands yesterday, the strings sat perfectly. This Bass does mean a lot to me, if I can get it fixed then I'd be the happiest person on earth. If I can't and I have to return it, the chances of me ever getting another one are pretty much zero as I shall never trust buying over Ebay again and living where I do it's unlikely I'd ever find one within a reasonable driving distance, especially with the price of fuel as it is.

[chrismuzz]

[quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1337520320' post='1661234']
I think this nut is the one I'm looking for:

[url="http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/product/Trussrod_Nut_Cylinder_Nickel_TRN-11"]http://www.wdmusic.c...r_Nickel_TRN-11[/url]
[/quote]

Does yours take a 4mm allen key? Mine does... I've sent them an email to ask if this one is the same

[KingBollock]

[quote name='chrismuzz' timestamp='1337521817' post='1661267']
Does yours take a 4mm allen key? Mine does... I've sent them an email to ask if this one is the same
[/quote]
I don't know what it takes. I thought standard was 6mm, but the hole in this is perfectly round so it's hard to tell.

[chrismuzz]

Ahh well, whatever it is I'll let you know!

[lettsguitars]

Are you sure you don't need a smaller allen key? Sometimes the nut is inside a housing which makes it look bigger. Do you know if it's a single action rod or dual? A dual action rod wont allow you to remove the nut without breaking everything.

[KingBollock]

[quote name='lettsguitars' timestamp='1337522541' post='1661292'] Are you sure you don't need a smaller allen key? Sometimes the nut is inside a housing which makes it look bigger. Do you know if it's a single action rod or dual? A dual action rod wont allow you to remove the nut without breaking everything. [/quote]
It looks like you might be right. There's a brass part inside that seems to accept a 5.5mm allen key and it turns. Now there's a new problem, though. There isn't enough room to turn the key as far as I need to, the route for the truss rod access is very narrow and deep. The allen key will turn but only so far and it's not far enough to be able to take the key out and put it in the next position, if you see what I mean. Because of the angle it isn't possible to use the long part or a bit on the end of a long screwdriver either. I have tried putting a twist into an allen key but they're bloomin' tough little things and I haven't got anything to apply enough heat to make it budge even a little bit.
It's starting to look like the best option is to remove some of the wood either side of the access trench. The trouble is that if I'm wrong I've just gone and damaged it even more.

[KingBollock]

Thanks to Lettsguitars I was able to sort the truss rod into a suitable position. I'm not sure what'll happen when I put heavier strings on it but I'll worry about that later.

The action is still really high but now it's entirely due to the bridge... I have this bridge:

[url="http://www.rosetti.co.uk/Product/BC-Rich-Bass-Bridge-with-Sliding-Saddles-4-String-"]http://www.rosetti.c...ddles-4-String-[/url]

The problem with it is that it won't allow the action to be lowered enough. I've done a little experimenting and I have tried it without the saddle, with the string just resting on the little sledge thing. This meant it was still a little too high and if I did it will all the strings I wouldn't be able to alter the height of any of them to follow the arc of the fretboard. Currently I have taken the sledge out and just put in the saddle. I have been able to get this to the height I like, unfortunately it is quite unstable because it is quite narrow, and the string tension isn't enough to hold it in place. Normally I would shim the neck at this point but it is neck-through, so that ain't happening. The best thing would be to route out under the bridge but I don't have the confidence to do that and I couldn't afford to get it done. Ideally I need a new sled/saddle thing but I don't know where to start looking. On the bridge the saddle is sitting 8.5mm above the bridge, with a little of that height added using the screws in it. It is 12mm wide. With the bridge the whole thing is 10mm high. Any ideas?

Edited May 20, 2012 by KingBollock

[KingBollock]

Quick update for those that aren't completely sick of hearing about the damned thing...

I think I've got it sorted. I managed to turn the truss rod a bit, which has helped no end, would like a little bit more but not enough to carve chunks out of the headstock to get it. I have taken the little sled things out of the bridge so the strings are resting on the little saddles alone. I have taken the flatwounds off my Westfield and put them on the Warlock and the string tension is enough to hold the saddles in place now. I suppose I would like to have a slightly lower action and I think I might be able to get it by sorting out the nut a bit, it looks like it's never been touched. One other problem is that the pick-ups are too close to the strings, and because it's a double P, there isn't much space inbetween them, so I keep clicking them with my pick, and the screws to lower them are buggered. There's enough grip to be able to get them out with a little flathead, though, so I can replace them.
On my shopping list for this year is a bench mounted grinding wheel/sander ( [url="http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cbg6sb-6in-bench-grinder-with-sander?da=1&TC=SRC-bench%20grinder"]http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cbg6sb-6in-bench-grinder- with-sander?da=1&TC=SRC-bench%20grinder[/url] ) so when I get it I shall set about the bottoms of the sleds and saddles so that they are a lower profile together but still look OK.

Sorry for all the fuss, I do tend to worry and panic easily. I always assume the worst is going to happen or is happening. It's not often that something goes right.

Having spent a while playing it I have to say that it was worth it in the end. It sounds great and the sustain lasts forever. And, obviously, it look fantastic. Finally, after all these years, I have [i]my[/i] Bass.

[Ou7shined]

I'm glad you are much happier now but it kinda sounds to me like you are relieving symptoms (somewhat drastically too) but not curing the cause.

[KingBollock]

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1337612005' post='1662745']
I'm glad you are much happier now but it kinda sounds to me like you are relieving symptoms (somewhat drastically too) but not curing the cause.
[/quote]
True, but it's working. I think I was able to take enough relief out of the neck so that it isn't a problem, it now has some heavy flatwounds on it and is fine. I think, in the end, the problem is that it's a neck-through and the bridge's profile is too high for it. Ideally I should have the bridge sunk into the body, but that's not a route I can really take. A lower profile bridge would be better but it would have to only be 10mm high, in total, and I can't find one. So I shall take the height out of the current bridge by taking material from the bottom of the sleds and the saddles and it should be fine. You say what I've done is drastic but I haven't done anything that can't be undone, yet. If the worst comes to the worst I can buy a whole new bridge, the same one, for £20.

I really don't want to have to go through the fuss of returning it. So, other than return it, what would you do? One thing I have thought about is that I need to find a local Guitar repairer or Luthier that I can talk to in person and show the problems to in the future.

Edited May 21, 2012 by KingBollock

[Ou7shined]

[quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1337612985' post='1662767']
.... I think, in the end, the problem is that it's a neck-through [b]and the bridge's profile is too high for it[/b]. ....[/quote]

But it didn't start off like that.
Rather than take a bench grinder to your dream bass in order to address it's current issues you should try and fix what's causing it... imho.

[quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1337612985' post='1662767']
....One thing I have thought about is that I need to find a local Guitar repairer or Luthier that I can talk to in person and show the problems to in the future.
[/quote]

I couldn't agree more.
They will be able to help you address this in a way that's more sympathetic to the instrument.