High Action

[stingrayPete1977]

[quote name='Johnston' timestamp='1341173656' post='1714767']


Had to look twice at the seller ID on that one.
[/quote]

[KingBollock]

My latest Bass came with a 4.5mm action. It was 'orrible! The previous owner had put very light strings on it to compensate. The trouble is that the neck, which is a neck-through, so can't be shimmed, is flush with the body, so there is only the thickness of the fretboard to take up some of the action, which means that the bridge is twice as thick as it needs to be, even at it's lowest. I was able to take some parts out of the bridge to lower the action a bit, down to about 3mm, but will need to do something drastic to get it how I'd really like it, around 2mm.

[Cameronj279]

[quote name='Roland Rock' timestamp='1341172136' post='1714730']
[url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Marlin-Bass-Guitar-/290735930588?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item43b1363cdc#ht_500wt_922"]http://www.ebay.co.u...dc#ht_500wt_922[/url]

What do you reckon the action is like on that bad boy?
[/quote]

I've played worse! I wish I was joking when I said that

[essexbasscat]

[quote name='BassTractor' timestamp='1341148547' post='1714280']
As a noob, I want my basses to be [b]different[/b] first and foremost, from very low to very high action.
I don't want to train on just one technique, but from day one wanted to train my fingers on the differences. I wanna be able to pick up any bass and play it reasonably well. IME this is better than getting very good at one action only.

May I divert this thread for a second to ask what that wrong ruler thingie is called that one uses to measure the action? I ordered one locally, but it never arrived. Now I want to use the interwebs to order one.
[/quote]

I'm guessing here, but the 'wrong ruler' thingy you mention could be a vernier guage ? a vernier gauge looks like a precision - made adjustable spanner with a ruler down the grip.

You can also use a small wedge to measure string height. Pluck the string, gently place wedge under string to the point string vibration is muted. Mark the point of contact with a pencil. Measure the gap with above mentioned vernier gauge. Job done.

[chrismuzz]

Mine's 4mm between the fret and the string

Maybe I play with more force than I thought! It seems on the low side to me...


EDIT: Thats on my 4... On my 5 string the B string is about 6mm and on my 6 string my low A is about 8mm

...Maybe I should give em a bit of a setup

Edited July 2, 2012 by chrismuzz

[BassTractor]

[quote name='essexbasscat' timestamp='1341179913' post='1714915']
I'm guessing here, but the 'wrong ruler' thingy you mention could be a vernier guage ?[/quote]


Thanks, EssexBC.
I don't think I meant a vernier gauge though. From what you wrote, I got the impression you describe an instrument with moving parts - one we call a vernier caliper here. Maybe a gauge is not the same thing, what do I know. At any rate I didn't mean an instrument, but one of those flat rectangulars shapes made of metal or plastic, that have lines on them that stand 90 degrees to what you'd expect on a carpenter's rule. You just place it on the frets and read the distance to the string by looking past the "underside" of the string from the side.
Pfffffff, complicated. Let me just sit back and have a pause. ... Tired. ... Soooo tired. ;^)

[jaydentaku]

[quote name='chrismuzz' timestamp='1341203980' post='1715040']
Mine's 4mm between the fret and the string

Maybe I play with more force than I thought! It seems on the low side to me...


EDIT: Thats on my 4... On my 5 string the B string is about 6mm and on my 6 string my low A is about 8mm

...Maybe I should give em a bit of a setup
[/quote]

if you are happy, why change. I can't help but think that this is some kind of competition.

You must be able to measure the gap in microns, or you're not a true player!

Personally, I hate any kind of unintentional contact between frets and strings. To me, it sounds sh*t. If I want to wollop a string, i want it do play the note I asked for, without it buzzing at me. No doubt the gaps between my strings are considered ridiculous and some would find it unplayable. Luckily then, they won't be playing it, it's not their sodding instrument, it's mine and I am happy with it.

Edited July 2, 2012 by jaydentaku

[Telebass]

Probably something, from Stewart MacDonald, I'm guessing. Could it be this?
[url="http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Straightedges/String_Action_Gauge.html?actn=100101&xst=3&xsr=236"]http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Straightedges/String_Action_Gauge.html?actn=100101&xst=3&xsr=236[/url]

[lowdown]

[quote name='jaydentaku' timestamp='1341215971' post='1715111']
it's mine and I am happy with it.
[/quote]

And we have a winner !



Garry

[BassTractor]

[quote name='Telebass' timestamp='1341216283' post='1715113']
Probably something, from Stewart MacDonald, I'm guessing. Could it be this?
[url="http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Straightedges/String_Action_Gauge.html?actn=100101&xst=3&xsr=236"]http://www.stewmac.c...1&xst=3&xsr=236[/url][/quote]

Yes! A String Action Gauge! Thanks so much.
Here, normally, you'd get plastic versions for free from a guitar factory stand at an instrument show, or an importer would leave some freebies at your local shop. This pro one seems expensive at 19 Mercan bucks. I'll do a search now I know what to search for.

Thanks again!

[KingBollock]

[quote name='BassTractor' timestamp='1341221609' post='1715211']
Yes! A String Action Gauge! Thanks so much.
Here, normally, you'd get plastic versions for free from a guitar factory stand at an instrument show, or an importer would leave some freebies at your local shop. This pro one seems expensive at 19 Mercan bucks. I'll do a search now I know what to search for.

Thanks again!
[/quote]
Let us know what you find, I'd quite like to own something like that myself but I'd never seen one before. I keep meaning to buy a Feeler Gauge for checking the action at the Nut end when replacing or altering the Nut.

These seem just like the sort of things that should come free on the front of magazines. Someone should start a thread dedicated to letting people know what free stuff comes with what magazine. Though I'm more likely to bump into Phil Lynott's ghost than find a Bass Guitar magazine locally.

[stingrayPete1977]

I have a big set of allen keys that I bought from Maplins, I keep them away from all my regular tools just for bass fiddling. I have every possible size for all bridge saddle pins and truss rods etc but they double up as a perfect feeler gauge set for our purposes. I changed the string gauges last week on my black Ray 5 but before I did I found the nearest allen key size from the 12th fret first, then swapped the strings, tuned it up, adjusted the truss until it was back just like it was before, easy

[rogerstodge]

[quote name='Roland Rock' timestamp='1341172136' post='1714730']
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Marlin-Bass-Guitar-/290735930588?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item43b1363cdc#ht_500wt_922








What do you reckon the action is like on that bad boy?
[/quote]

Whoa!!! Thats gotta be about an inch and half

[BottomE]

Truss rod adjustment is confusing. They say "lefty loosey" and "righty tighty" Surely that depends on which way you are looking at your bass, from the front or behind? What do they mean?

[stingrayPete1977]

looking at the head of the adjuster so up the neck towards the headstock if its at the heel or down the neck towards the body if its at the headstock

Edited July 2, 2012 by stingrayPete1977

[BottomE]

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1341256625' post='1715976']
looking at the head of the adjuster so up the neck towards the headstock if its at the heel or down the neck towards the body if its at the headstock
[/quote]
thanks Pete

[EssentialTension]

[quote name='BottomE' timestamp='1341256306' post='1715957']
Truss rod adjustment is confusing. They say "lefty loosey" and "righty tighty" Surely that depends on which way you are looking at your bass, from the front or behind? What do they mean?
[/quote]
It doesn't matter which way you're looking at it as long as you're looking at the trussrod nut. It will still be lefty loosey (i.e. anticlockwise) and righty tighty (i.e. clockwise).

[MoonBassAlpha]

Not all truss rods are lefty loosey, righty tighty. Most are though. Sei aren't.

[4 Strings]

Really, left handed threads? These are normally only put on rotating things (like one side of bike pedals) which would tend to loosen during rotating rather than tighten. Can't think of a good reason for left handed thread on a truss rod. Apart from hoping people will et caught out and ruin it.

[4 Strings]

[quote name='rogerstodge' timestamp='1341255641' post='1715941']
Whoa!!! Thats gotta be about an inch and half
[/quote]

If its just adjustment, bargain for someone but look like the truss rod has snapped to me. Would a Marlin be worth the repair?

[Roland Rock]

Thay have a really bad name, but my first bass was identical to this(except for the bowed neck) and it played and sounded fIne. I did scores of gigs and even some recording on it. I suspect mine may have been the exception to the rule, as most people on BC say theirs were utterly sh*t

[4 Strings]

[quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1341174936' post='1714797']
My latest Bass came with a 4.5mm action. It was 'orrible! The previous owner had put very light strings on it to compensate. The trouble is that the neck, which is a neck-through, so can't be shimmed, is flush with the body, so there is only the thickness of the fretboard to take up some of the action, which means that the bridge is twice as thick as it needs to be, even at it's lowest. I was able to take some parts out of the bridge to lower the action a bit, down to about 3mm, but will need to do something drastic to get it how I'd really like it, around 2mm.
[/quote]

Sounds like a badly designed bass to me.

Has anybody mentioned neck 'relief' on this thread yet?

Neck should be absolutely straight (easily measured by holding your string down on the first and last frets) but with a very slight bow (around 1mm or less in the middle) to allow the string to vibrate without buzzing. Holding the string down like that should reveal a gap of 1mm between it and the 9th or so fret. If the relief is too much (ie a larger gap) the action will be high (like the Marlin). Too little, or even reverse, and the strings will buzz on the frets - meaning the saddles will need to be raised unnecessarily high.

If in doubt lower the taut string onto the frets slowly as you may see contact with a high fret of neck bulge before the end fret is touched which may be causing buzzing.

This is the key to a low, unbuzzy action.

(Often reveals the little hump that can appear around the 14-16th fret on bolt on necks)

[karlfer]

I nearly always get Ritchie Thompson to do mine, because I've always been afraid to ask the following question;
here goes, from Mr. Dumbass,
turn the truss rod left = to loosen the truss rod = less concave neck.
True or false?

I can do all the other bits, it's always this bit that confuses me.

[Roland Rock]

[quote name='karlfer' timestamp='1341400471' post='1718263']

turn the truss rod left = to loosen the truss rod = less concave neck.
True or false?

[/quote]

That's my understanding. So the Marlin (assuming the truss rod still works) needs a fair few anti clockwise turns

[BottomE]

Just wanted to add that i have "Tweaked" my rod

The difference it has made is quite incredible for just a couple of minutes fiddling.