MarkC Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 Having a problem here that doesn't seem as easy to fix as I'd innitially hoped. My amp head has both passive and active input sockets, with the active being my required input. Problem is this socket is faulty (the laching mechanism inside the socket has jammed open so no longer makes connection), this is forcing me to use the passive socket for now. Having previously replaced a faulty socket on my bass, I'd presumed this would be an easy fix, but on opening my head, it appears things aren't going to be as straight forward... Does anyone know if this would be a viable DIY job or is it one for a professional? If the latter, can anyone recommend someone in the Birmingham area? Many thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dood Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 Hi Mark, yup, I reckon this would be a very straight forward job for a tech/pro and shouldnt take any more than 30mins. It's easy to buy those types of jack sockets and are readily available. With a minimum of tools, anyone who is capable with a soldering iron should be fine. My best friend for getting the old socket out would be a decent 'solder sucker' to remove solder from the old connections. The new socket should push straight into the holes in the PCB left by the old socket, then just a case of reapplying some good quality solder in the normal method. The sockets themselves are probably about £2.50 and you may find them in Maplin, but certainly companies like Farnell / CPC / RS should carry them too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkC Posted July 7, 2012 Author Share Posted July 7, 2012 Many thanks Dood. Gonna have a go myself I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dood Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 Cool! Let us know how you get on! It'll be successful I am sure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkC Posted July 9, 2012 Author Share Posted July 9, 2012 Hi again... I've browsed the products of all the sellers you suggested and have been unable to find these particular sockets. Are there any other sources that might do these? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bremen Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 Why not (for now) just swap them over so the active input works? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkC Posted July 9, 2012 Author Share Posted July 9, 2012 [quote name='bremen' timestamp='1341844854' post='1724994'] Why not (for now) just swap them over so the active input works? [/quote] Yeah I may need to do this in the short term. Hopefully that socket won't develop the same problem any time soon. Thanks for the suggestion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOD2 Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 I had this same problem once with a Hartke 3500 head. I think the jack sockets are on their own little detachable PCB so you can take that whole assembly out of the head to work on it. If I'm not mistaken, this is the type of jack socket that you need - [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-4-6-35-Stereo-Jack-Socket-Panel-Mount-/120712212096"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-4-6-35-Stereo-Jack-Socket-Panel-Mount-/120712212096[/url] but have a good look at the photos to compare it first. It has a characteristic "bevel" on one corner of the plastic casing of the socket. In my case I wrote to the UK Hartke distributor and was able to obtain a replacement socket from them. When removing the old socket be careful not to apply too much heat to the solder pads on the PCB as it can sometimes damage the pads. Since the old jack is being scrapped it will actually be easier if you "disassemble" it while still attached, so that just the legs remain on the PCB. That way you can then unsolder and remove one leg at a time rather than trying to do them all at once, which is tricky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Heeley Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 Ive had a load of those exact sockets off DR TWEEK who runs an online shop as well as ebay shop. [url="http://www.doctortweek.co.uk/shop/article_36/Jack-Socket-1_4%22-Stereo%2C-Switched---Enclosed.html?shop_param=cid%3D50%26aid%3D36%26"]http://www.doctortweek.co.uk/shop/article_36/Jack-Socket-1_4%22-Stereo%2C-Switched---Enclosed.html?shop_param=cid%3D50%26aid%3D36%26[/url] 73p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bremen Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 [quote name='BOD2' timestamp='1342085425' post='1729169'] Since the old jack is being scrapped it will actually be easier if you "disassemble" it while still attached, so that just the legs remain on the PCB. That way you can then unsolder and remove one leg at a time rather than trying to do them all at once, which is tricky. [/quote] Good advice, much less likely to damage the PCB that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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