essexbasscat Posted July 19, 2012 Share Posted July 19, 2012 (edited) Hi all Came across a double bass in a shop. The shop are selling it on behalf of someone that got it as part of a house clearance. It has cobwebs near the posts that the strings wind around. The machine heads look old, the finish is dull, but not pitted. The heel where the neck attaches to the body is split horizontally approx. half inch below the top face of the body. The split is between 1/16" and 1/8" inch wide. The bridge has the logo 'Adam Warrick' on it. It's made of a white wood and appears a bit fresher than the rest of the bass. It's condition isn't congruent with the overall condition of the bass, which looks generally older The bridge is about 1' above the sound post (that is, 1 inch nearer the fretboard). The foot of the bridge on the treble side has pushed the top in a short way. The string slots in the bridge haven't been cut too deep. You can drive a bus under the action BTW The inside of the slot at the uppermost part of the F' hole on the bass side is lower than the height of the corresponding opposite side of that F hole. There are some lines on the finish on the top (they look like prior pressure marks from the foot of the bridge) that indicate the bridge has travelled towards the bass side F hole at some time in the past. The finish on the body is dark and appears to be like an old varnish or laquer. It's definately not a poly finish. The finish is cracked in vertical lines. If you've seen an old dark finish Gibson 335 from the late 1950's or early 60's, you'll know what I mean. I checked inside for a label, but nothing there. There don't appear to be any identifiying marks anywhere on the instrument. The only writing is on the bridge. Looking through the F holes, the wood of the back panel doesn't show any grain. I can't tell if that's because it's old, faded and dull, or if it's because it's made of ply, or some other composite wood. There's no holes anywhere, it just has abrasion marks here and there. It has old strings on it, but it's surprisingly resonant from the top two strings. The lower ones sound well, but not so resonant. What do you think BC ? does anyone have any ideas ? value ? how much to repair ? can I repair the neck heel myself ? How much should I offer ? Or alternately, how much is a new one these days ? or a reasonable secondhand one ? I'm completely new to this field of bass, so please be patient with me. Thanks all Edited July 19, 2012 by essexbasscat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRev Posted July 19, 2012 Share Posted July 19, 2012 (edited) [quote name='essexbasscat' timestamp='1342705185' post='1739634'] It has cobwebs near the posts that the strings wind around. [/quote] This is normal. A DB can go 2-3 years between string changes, plenty of time for the spiders to get comfy. [quote name='essexbasscat' timestamp='1342705185' post='1739634'] The heel where the neck attaches to the body is split horizontally approx. half inch below the top face of the body. The split is between 1/16" and 1/8" inch wide. [/quote] This is less normal. If the heel is split and the neck is coming away from the block/body, then it's probably best to walk away unless a) you know the bass is worth much more that the cost of repair - £200 -£300, You are close personal friends with a luthier or c) are a luthier. If the break isn't moving, then you could squirt a load of glue into the crack, clamp it for a couple of days and then all may be fine. However always remember that a double bass is essentially firewood waiting to happen. [quote name='essexbasscat' timestamp='1342705185' post='1739634'] The bridge is about 1' above the sound post (that is, 1 inch nearer the fretboard). [/quote] Which is exactly where it should be [quote name='essexbasscat' timestamp='1342705185' post='1739634'] The foot of the bridge on the treble side has pushed the top in a short way. The string slots in the bridge haven't been cut too deep. [/quote] Any sinking of the top could indicate a broken rib. If you can get a better look inside, you might be able to spot the damage. [quote name='essexbasscat' timestamp='1342705185' post='1739634'] You can drive a bus under the action BTW [/quote] This is called an 'orchestral setup' [quote name='essexbasscat' timestamp='1342705185' post='1739634'] The inside of the slot at the uppermost part of the F' hole on the bass side is lower than the height of the corresponding opposite side of that F hole. There are some lines on the finish on the top (they look like prior pressure marks from the foot of the bridge) that indicate the bridge has travelled towards the bass side F hole at some time in the past. [/quote] Not quite sure what you mean by 'slots'.... if you're saying that the front (table) of the bass is sunken on the bass side compared to the treble side, then it could be a broken rib as above or the bass bar has become detached. Without actually seeing the bass it's difficult to give a definitlive answer, but for an unknown bass that needs work, I'd be offering token sums to be honest. even if it was a nice 60s german ply, you could spend upwards of £600 fixing it up and be left with a bass that's worth £600. My best advice is not to offfer any more than you can afford to lose or would be willing to spend on an interesting artifact for your living room. If you're patient, you can pick up a decent second hand Strunal, Stentor or maybe even a Zeller for £500. An authentic 50s or 60s German or Czech ply will set you back £1000 from a shop (i.e. Thwaites) or maybe £700 if you buy privately. The Thomann 1E basses are quite nice, rebadged Strunals for around £800. Edited July 19, 2012 by TheRev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
essexbasscat Posted July 19, 2012 Author Share Posted July 19, 2012 Thanks Rev, I appreciate the time taken for that answer. I'm not a luthier myself. I do know one or two that may give me a few pointers though. I'm also used to working with tools, so although I've never done a job like this, I'd give it a go if I was told what to do and how to go about it. To clarify; the F hole is only lower on one portion of the F, on the side that's nearest the bridge. It's more a curve of the wood local to that side of the F, rather than a general sinking of the table itself on that side. The figures of £600 you quote certainly give me something to think about, as the guy is asking around the £300 mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
essexbasscat Posted July 19, 2012 Author Share Posted July 19, 2012 OK, update I've done a little research on this and heeded the advice of the Rev here (thanks again). I'll be happy to walk away from this one if the guy doesn't accept my offer. CHeers all T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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