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Bridge problem


noojb
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yesterday i was having a rehearsal and we were doing a song that has some slapping in. Just as i was really getting into it i hear a massive bang and my bridge has come off. Luckily the soundpost didn't seem to have moved so i put the bridge back in place, tuned it up and carried on playing. 15 minutes later the same thing happens again but this time i'm not even slapping. I was wondering if anyone could help me work out what the problem is. I put new strings on last week so i'm thinking the bridge may have moved a bit when i did that. I have also noticed though that at time it has looked like the bridge is not perfectly against the body of the bass so i think the bottom of it may need sanding down against the body of the bass. I'm not sure if this is the problem though so i was wondering if you guys have ay idea what else it could be? and if it is that what is the best way to do the sanding? What grade sandpaper shall i use? So yeh basically i haven't got much of an idea of the problem or how to fix it so any help would be greatly appreciated!

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Check the bridge is the right way round. Usually with the writing facing the fingerboard not the tailpiece.
To align the bridge properly the middle of the sides of the feet should be lined up with the cuts in the f hole. Use rosin under the feet to help it stick and lubricate the bridge slots where the strings rest with pencil lead.

If its still not right I would take it to a luthier but I'm rubbish with sandpaper etc..

I have never had a bridge come off. I bet it sounded terrible.

Good luck.

Edited by geoffbassist
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I thought that the writing had to be facing toward the bridge? It happened to me recently and frightened me and the cat out of our wits! Perhaps that's where I'm going wrong however -
http://www.musictrader.com/fittingabridge.pdf
I read that in the above article which is quite useful.

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After you re-fitted the bridge and tuned back up to pitch, did you check to make sure the bridge was still sitting perpendicular to the body? Sometimes while tuning up the strings can pull the top of the bridge towards the nut, so it ends up like this: \ You can correct it by tapping the top until it goes back to this | and then continuing to tune up, checking every so often that it's still upright.

If it wasn't perfectly upright then it may have been easy for it to be squeezed by the pressure of the strings and slip out from under them, a bit like a tiddlywink.

Also did you bang the bridge on anything getting it to your rehearsal? Doorway, car boot, etc.? That could've knocked it out of place in the first instance and caused it to collapse while you were playing. Check it before you play it. :)

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[quote name='ash' timestamp='1343917330' post='1757300']
I thought that the writing had to be facing toward the bridge? It happened to me recently and frightened me and the cat out of our wits! Perhaps that's where I'm going wrong however -
http://www.musictrader.com/fittingabridge.pdf
I read that in the above article which is quite useful.
[/quote]

The writing is on the bridge. It faces towards the fingerboard/neck. Not the spike/tailpiece.
It may not actually have any writing on but normally it's the name of the person who fitted the bridge or the maker of the bridge.

Edited by geoffbassist
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[quote name='geoffbassist' timestamp='1343919610' post='1757350']


The writing is on the bridge. It faces towards the fingerboard/neck. Not the spike/tailpiece.
It may not actually have any writing on but normally it's the name of the person who fitted the bridge or the maker of the bridge.
[/quote]

When I got my bass the writing was facing down towards the tailpiece and the angle of the bridge is slightly forward towards the fingerboard end, the pickup is fitted to enable this too. So that is incorrect then? Cheers

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[quote name='geoffbassist' timestamp='1343919610' post='1757350']


The writing is on the bridge. It faces towards the fingerboard/neck. Not the spike/tailpiece.
It may not actually have any writing on but normally it's the name of the person who fitted the bridge or the maker of the bridge.
[/quote]

I actually meant 'the writing facing the tailpiece' not facing the bridge sorry typo!

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I wouldn't worry if it's fitted properly.

Not all bridges are symmetrical so they have a front and back. I can't see any reason why if it was fitted the other way it would matter. It would be a problem if it was fitted one way and swapped around as the bridge feet may not be cut the same shape on both sides.
As long as the bridge feet are flush with the top, it's in the right place and the bass sounds ok then I wouldn't worry.

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Well Geoff I turned the bridge round as suggested and it's a much better angle. The feet aren't too flush to the top however it certainly feels firmer and much 'safer' to play. Thanks for your advice and sorry noojb if I hijacked your thread somewhat! ;)

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Some facts:

It's the structure of the wood that dictates which way round the bridge is fitted. Only the luthier who first fits the bridge has to worry about that!

Once fitted, there's a flat face (the back - facing toward the tailpiece) and a profiled side (generally stamped - though don't rely on that... I've seen some stamped on the wrong side, and some Chinese instruments have the bridge maker's stamp on the back, and the instrument maker's stamp on the front!) which faces the fingerboard.

The BACK of the bridge (tailpiece side) should stand vertically (90 degrees) to the front of the bass.

The bridge legs are "spread" whilst fitting (a couple of mm) so if all the strings have been removed and replaced, once the new ones are approaching playing tension, pulling the legs outwards (toward the f holes) slightly is likely to improve the fit (and hence how solidly the bridge stays put when playing heavily) Bridges fitted without spreading often move side to side during heavy playing. Having the feet re-fitted is the only real cure.

If you don't want black marks on your bridge under the strings, lubricate with dry soap ("simple" or similar) instead of graphite. Use graphite at the nut.

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