Zenitram Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 Hi gang. I have decided to defret my cheap Stagg bass, for a larf, and on the cheap (target budget: around a fiver). So far it's gone well. The bass is in bits (in a good way), and the frets are out, for which I used an old pair of nail clippers. They did a great job, though they fell apart at the end. It was much simpler than I had feared; you just have to be gentle, slow, careful, patient, etc. My concern is what to do next, and I'd just like some confirmation (I've been reading around, and I think the list below is what I need to do, as a minimum): I'm thinking: 1) Sand down the neck a bit to get rid of any loose bits on the fret edges. 2) Clean the fret holes out with a needle or something, to get rid of any gunk. 3) Tape up the neck between frets (optional) and fill the fret holes with commercially available epoxy resin. Not rushing it, taking my time, a few frets at a go. 4) Allow to dry, overnight maybe, then check to see if they need any more epoxy resin (I don't know, maybe it settled or something). 5) Get sanding, from slightly coarse down to extra fine. 6) That's it. There's no real need to add any extra finish to the fretboard, is there? If there is, what are the simple options? Once done, reassemble bass, try it out with flats and tapewounds (I have both on other basses) to see which I prefer. Look at string height, nut height, etc., and see if I can get away with not doing anything else that I could screw up. Maybe shim the neck a bit when reassembling? Any thoughts? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lettsguitars Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 Use a hacksaw blade to clean out the fret 'slots'. That would be my first thought for a cheopo option without buying a fretsaw. I wouldn't bother with epoxy if I were you. Just wood filler. The epoxy would end up harder than your fretboard which incidentally as a cheap rosewood will not last long with anything other than tapewound strings. You dont need to finish the board apart from a bit of oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lettsguitars Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 Danish oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zenitram Posted August 8, 2012 Author Share Posted August 8, 2012 Thanks for the reply -- I will use wood filler, and tapewounds. What sort of oil do you mean to finish the board? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zenitram Posted August 8, 2012 Author Share Posted August 8, 2012 (edited) Danish oil of what? Oh I see, have looked it up. Thanks! Edited August 8, 2012 by Zenitram Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lettsguitars Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 It's called danish oil. You get it in cans from b&q. Colron natural danish oil. Not that cheap though, about 15 quid maybe. and there'll be way too much for what you need. The other option is lemon or almond oil from the chemist. Or maybe sainsbury's. The wood filler will be much easier to sand without a radius block, and you dont want to end up with a board that is no longer straight with an uneven radius. Go as lightly as possible. Start with 120, move to 240 and finish with 320 and fine wirewool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zenitram Posted August 8, 2012 Author Share Posted August 8, 2012 Understood, thanks. There are 250 ml cans of Danish oil on eBay for about a fiver, so this is good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zenitram Posted August 8, 2012 Author Share Posted August 8, 2012 One more question: I was looking at getting a radius block to do the sanding, but I don't know which radius to get. What would you suggest? Just go by hand, and be very gentle? Guess at a radius and use that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lettsguitars Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 If the boards in good shape then you could get away without. You will need to get a block that matches the current radius, so if you know what that is and you think you need one then go for it. With the rad block you sand in 3 stages with short strokes. Make pencil marks all along the board and keep going till hey dissappear in one pass and then move on to the next grit. Make sure you adjust the truss rod so that the neck is dead flat before you start. Also make sure the neck is well supported so that it doesn't bend when you apply pressure. Use shims of mdf or a similar soft material that wont damage the back of the neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Vader Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 I made my own radius block by taping sandpaper to the neck I was using (after the frets had come off, but before I stuck any gunk in the holes) and rubbing a lump of wood over it until it matched the radius. Saved a lot of hassle and money, and worked a treat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zenitram Posted August 8, 2012 Author Share Posted August 8, 2012 Clever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lettsguitars Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 I was just thinking the same thing. Although I have never made one myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
essexbasscat Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 I've heard that some fretboards have a compound radius i.e. the radius is not the same at either end. Is that true ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lettsguitars Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 True. Not on a stagg though i wouldn't imagine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Vader Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 [quote name='Zenitram' timestamp='1344426877' post='1764240'] Clever. [/quote] Or the exact opposite of clever, I was never quite sure... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brensabre79 Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 I put a wood veneer into the slots on mine with PVA glue, pretty easy to do, only used one sheet of light coloured wood veneer, cut into small rectangles so they stick out of the slots slightly and sanded the whole thing down smooth - by hand without a block, plays a treat, but make sure the rosewood board is nice and thick, some of them are hilariously thin! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lettsguitars Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 [quote name='brensabre79' timestamp='1344432307' post='1764370'] I put a wood veneer into the slots on mine with PVA glue, pretty easy to do, only used one sheet of light coloured wood veneer, cut into small rectangles so they stick out of the slots slightly and sanded the whole thing down smooth - by hand without a block, plays a treat, but make sure the rosewood board is nice and thick, some of them are hilariously thin! [/quote]Obviously if you want the lines to be visible, maple veneer is the only way. I assumed they were to be 'invisible' ish. I would use super glue instead though. Quickerer intit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brensabre79 Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 NO it was a light colored wood, not sure if it was maple or beech, although I had a stained red one on the 12th fret. Nothing like in your league of craftsmanship, but it was fun. The frets had been ripped out when i got it but they had just left empty slots! on a 60s Fender too!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lettsguitars Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 Yea I meant the op project. Different coloured lines is a nice touch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zenitram Posted August 8, 2012 Author Share Posted August 8, 2012 I am toying with the idea of wood veneers. I suppose I want the easiest method that I am least likely to screw up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brensabre79 Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 [quote name='Zenitram' timestamp='1344433156' post='1764392'] I suppose I want the easiest method that I am least likely to screw up. [/quote] I'd go with the filler option recommended above then, its one less thing to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ou7shined Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 The good thing with veneers is that they will not contract away from level when dry like wood-filler will. Use superglue though as it has less water content than wood glue and will not expand the wood - it also has the benefit of sealing your marker. You gotta be quick though before it sets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zenitram Posted August 8, 2012 Author Share Posted August 8, 2012 [quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1344436328' post='1764457'] Use superglue though as it has less water content than wood glue and will not expand the wood - it also has the benefit of sealing your marker. You gotta be quick though before it sets. [/quote] Could you talk me through the process you describe here, in really simple language and simple steps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lettsguitars Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 (edited) Clean out your slots. Buy your veneer (.23mm). Cut it into oversized strips, along the grain not across it. I use a little whsmith guillotine but scissors will do. Run glue into slots and gently work the veneer down into the slots. Be careful, if the slot is too tight do not try and force the veneers in, they will break into little pieces. If the slot is tight then widen it with your saw. Wait for glue to dry (about an hour) and clip off excess (with your nail clippers?) and sand flush. Very, very easy to do. Just common sense when you have it all in front of you. Edited August 8, 2012 by lettsguitars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lettsguitars Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 If your slots are slightly big and the veneerseems loose, don't worry. You can fill any gaps with glue and sand with 320 to fill with dust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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