mcnach Posted August 16, 2012 Share Posted August 16, 2012 I have a fretless Jazz that's basically a Squier VM series with a replacement body and pickups. The neck has been mounted slightly misaligned. Not a biggie, but noticeable. It has been used with roundwounds, which have left a mark under the strings on the ebanol fingerboard. It doesn't really show with the strings on. But I plan to probably put another body on it... in which case I would realign neck/body... and the string marks will show then. Is there a relatively easy way to remove those marks? If it's complicated, or risky, I'll leave it as it is. But if i can make it look neater... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darkstrike Posted August 16, 2012 Share Posted August 16, 2012 Sandpaper, I'd say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ikay Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 (edited) I had to repolish the ebanol board on a VMJ fretless a couple of years ago to remove marks from roundwound strings and using paintshop or jewellers finishing materials works very well. Materials listed below. Micromesh polishing paper: [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MICRO-MESH-MICROMESH-POLISHING-KIT-9-SHEETS-6-X-4-/320956999050?pt=UK_Crafts_Other_Crafts_EH&hash=item4aba87258a"]http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4aba87258a[/url] Foam sanding backing pad: [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MEGUIARS-Hi-Tech-Sanding-Backing-Pad-5-5-E7200A-for-Unigrit-Finishing-Paper-/110886795543?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Car_Care_Cleaning&hash=item19d15e3917"]http://www.ebay.co.u...=item19d15e3917[/url] 9.5" radius sanding block: [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LUTHIERS-FINGERBOARD-RADIUS-SANDING-BLOCKS-/330768016363?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&var=&hash=item4d034f63eb"]http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4d034f63eb[/url] If the marks are very light just use the foam sanding backing pad and use the finer grades of micromesh polishing papers finishing with the 12000 grit. If the marks are deep then use a radius sanding block and start with the coarser grades then work up through the finer grades. The ebanol will turn a dull gray to start with but the shine will come back when you finish polishing with the finer grades. Be warned that ebanol sands very easily (ie. a little sanding takes off a lot of material) so take it gently and start with a finer grade than you might think. Also wear a face mask as ebanol generates a lot of very fine dust which you shouldn't breath in. Edited August 17, 2012 by ikay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_5 Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 I went in VERY carefully with wire wool on mine, then epoxied it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRedX Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 Depends how deep the marks are. On the VMJ I used to have after 4 months playing with nickel round-wound strings the marks mostly polished out with a damp cloth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezbass Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 Has anyone tried T Cut or a similar product? I reckon this might do the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brensabre79 Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 Depends on how deep they are, but sandpaper, brasso or t-cut (finer than brasso) and finally a bit of polish will get you smooth again usually. Just for clarity, I would definitely [u][b]not[/b][/u] use brasso or t-cut on a rosewood or ebony board! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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