MiltyG565 Posted August 28, 2012 Share Posted August 28, 2012 well ok, I'm going to build a bright box.... eventually (when my account evens out again :/) so, i have been looking at the fearful stuff. and then i looked about other places and whatever. i'm thinking 3/4 speakers, and a tweeter. but, in your experience, what size of speakers would work best? i have 2 15 inchs cabs, that provide punch, and boom, and other sort of violence related noise names. i was going to convert one to a 4x10, but i was advised "No". instead, i was advised to build a bright box, and let some nice tone through! (with built in crossover). but yeah, need to know what sizes and stuff. i am by no means an expert on speakers or amps, so y'know, pass on your knowledge to the next generation Thanks. Milty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiltyG565 Posted August 28, 2012 Author Share Posted August 28, 2012 also, my cabs are 4 ohms, so this kinda has to be 4 ohms too (doesnt it?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Foxen Posted August 28, 2012 Share Posted August 28, 2012 Look up Fearful headcase. But also, decide what you don't like about the amps you have, and look into getting amps you do like instead much better use of time. All the crossover stuff is for if you 15sw are actually sub cabs and you need a mid/high cab to do the rest, if they are fullrange cabs that don't have enough range, then you need to start again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiltyG565 Posted August 28, 2012 Author Share Posted August 28, 2012 i have looked at the fearful head case, but was looking more along the lines of the trace elliot bright box. getting new cabs isn't much of an option. the sound from these is good enough. its just they are too boomy, and don't let the brightness through. but i don't mind. as long as i can get some brightness in my sound, its golden. i suppose they are sub cabs. its was the guy who built them that actually suggested that i build a bright box, after i explained that i wanted to convert one cab into a 4x10. bright box is the way forward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Foxen Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 Stuffing the cabs will help the boomyness. Trace bright box is pretty far inferior to the headcase, its more directional and has narrower bandwidth, what do you think is good about it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiltyG565 Posted August 29, 2012 Author Share Posted August 29, 2012 the cabs are stuffed already. they provide good punch. i don't know whats good and what isn't. i just need something that will release the higher frequencies, and be loud enough to not get drowned out by the 2 15 inch cabs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Foxen Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 Figuring what speakers are in the 15s would be a good start, need to ahve an idea what their output is before can come up with things that will keep up. But the headcase is basically the most complete solution, assuming you have a crossover sorted. Definitely sounds that aims are going to be better served with more suitable cabs not just adding more stuff to unsuitable ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiltyG565 Posted August 29, 2012 Author Share Posted August 29, 2012 they are eminence kappa 15lf. 4 ohms. my head is 250 watts ashdown abm 400. i honestly couldn't get rid of these right now. i wouldnt have the cash to upgrade. this seems like the best cost effective solution right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Foxen Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 (edited) OK, those basically are Sub drivers, not much top to them at all, the mid driver in the headcase looks to be a reasonable match to a pair in terms of sensitivity. If you don't have an external active crossover you'd need to design a crossover to suit though. What ports are in the cabs you have? Lowering the tuning a bit might sort boomyness too, but no way of adding any top end to them since hte driver limits that. Lowering the tuning is either extending the ports or reducing the port area, by plugging one up, this can give you trouble with air in the ports moving fast enough to make noise, but you aren't throwing loads of power at them. Edit: Should note with those drivers you need a midrange rather than a tweeter, there is a big gap they don't do before you get to tweeter territory, might not want tweeter territory at all. Another solution would be running a guitar combo at the same time with the bass cut from it. Edited August 29, 2012 by Mr. Foxen 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiltyG565 Posted August 29, 2012 Author Share Posted August 29, 2012 the cabs i have are fine. they are boomy, which is alright, i just want to let some brightness and tone into my sound. do you know how loud the head case would be? and what parts i would need for it (excluding the obvious timber). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingBollock Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 What about adding piezo tweeters to the current cabs? I did this to a 1x15, I added 2 piezos in series with a resistor (in series for better power handling and the resistor for protection) and added a switch so that I could turn them off. It made a huge difference and cost about £20. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiltyG565 Posted August 29, 2012 Author Share Posted August 29, 2012 yeah, it could work. but im guessing we will hear why we shouldnt do that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRedX Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 Do you use a [b]VERY[/b] trebly sound? Or slap a lot? I ask because I had a TE Bright Box for 24 hours. However I wasn't generating anything like enough top end for it to make any difference to the overall sound so it went straight back to the shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_5 Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 could you reduce the size of the cab a little to cut out some of the boominess? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bremen Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 I use an Eminence alpha 8MR alongside a 3015LF. Sealed back, so doesn't need a separate box within the bass unit's box. Great punchy sound, without the 'fizz' you get from piezo tweeters. http://cpc.farnell.com/eminence/alpha-8mr/eminence-alpha-8-mr-8-125w-mid/dp/LS00183 I drive it from a separate power amp with an active crossover, not sure how well it'd work with a passive crossover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Foxen Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 [quote name='MiltyG565' timestamp='1346202222' post='1786537'] the cabs i have are fine. they are boomy, which is alright, i just want to let some brightness and tone into my sound. do you know how loud the head case would be? and what parts i would need for it (excluding the obvious timber). [/quote] It its passband the driver headcase has a 102db sensitivity rating, the drivers in the subs have 97.8, so two will give another 3db for 100.8. That's pretty rough and ready, but not getting impression you are gunning for totally accuracy with this. Looking up headcase plans and the Greenboy forum will tell you all about it from people who've made them. [quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1346223214' post='1786575'] Do you use a [b]VERY[/b] trebly sound? Or slap a lot? I ask because I had a TE Bright Box for 24 hours. However I wasn't generating anything like enough top end for it to make any difference to the overall sound so it went straight back to the shop. [/quote] The cabs he has are running drivers only rated to 1.8khz so an octave or two of mids are missing compared to standard range bass cabs. [quote name='paul_5' timestamp='1346233830' post='1786714'] could you reduce the size of the cab a little to cut out some of the boominess? [/quote] Boomyness is from undersized cabs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiltyG565 Posted August 29, 2012 Author Share Posted August 29, 2012 the cabs are pretty large. 20x20x22 inches. i think its just because it is so enclosed, the air moving around inside doesn't escape fast enough. i was thinking of maybe cutting a section of the back panel out of one? i like to hear my treble nice and clearly. i don't know about having a trebly sound, but i like to hear it, along with the bass. cheers for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Foxen Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 Are they sealed cabs? They should be ported with that driver. Bit more to porting than cutting a hole, do it wrong and the power handling drops through the floor. Important bit for hearing is midrange, concentrate there rather than treble, loads of treble makes nasty sound, especially if you have a gap in the midrange. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiltyG565 Posted August 29, 2012 Author Share Posted August 29, 2012 it has a slot cut across the front just under the speaker. its about 5-51/2 inches long and an inch deep. when i play, it absolutely throws air out of it. i was thinking just cut a section out the back a few inches deep? no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Foxen Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 [quote name='MiltyG565' timestamp='1346258070' post='1787144'] it has a slot cut across the front just under the speaker. its about 5-51/2 inches long and an inch deep. when i play, it absolutely throws air out of it. i was thinking just cut a section out the back a few inches deep? no? [/quote] Manipulating that slot will be the way to alter the sound. The air in the box functions as a spring to stop the speaker moving too far and breaking, so opening it up defeats that and the speaker farts out. The air in the port works kind of like a pendulum enhancing the speaker at a certain frequency, if its tuned right, that frequency is where the speaker gets weak, sometimes its too high and gives a boomy hump, which is loud but not very musical. Plug up some or all of the port with a piece of wood and see if it changes the sound in a way you like. If its only an inch deep chances are it isn't ideal, and will probably give noise when it gets loud enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.