My Crap Bass

[thebrig]

It would appear that the OP does not want anyone on here to do a set-up for him, even though some have offered to [u]go to him[/u].

He says he can't afford to pay to have it done by a luthier.

He obviously doesn't possess the skills to do it himself (and that's not a criticism at all, because not everyone is practically minded).

He seems to have made his mind up, no matter what countless people have said, that his bass is just not up to the task of being playable, and making a good sound, purely because it is a "cheap" bass.

I really don't know what more you good people can do to help.

Edited September 13, 2012 by thebrig

[charic]

Maybe we could get it shipped to the South East BassBash and use it for a demo?

[wishface]

[quote name='Conan' timestamp='1347536089' post='1802059']
Sadly, I am coming to that conclusion.
[/quote]

Is it any wonder why? Someone posts a straw man statement and then someone else goes '+1', as if they were doing arithmetic. A bunch of suggestions were made, all of which I followed, and then was accused of not following them by people who couldn't possibly have known either way that didn't read what I had written.If a set of top quality new strings (are you going to tell me these are duff strings too?) haven't made any difference to the considerable volume difference in the E string then the only rational assumption is that it's the pickup. Why? because it's more likely than not that the manufacturer chose a lower quality pickup for a lower price bass. Do all Spector basses come with this exact brand of pickup? Why not, if they are good enough then surely that would make sense, wouldn't it? Save on costs at least.

[wishface]

[quote name='brensabre79' timestamp='1347534895' post='1802039']

SO, ignoring the buzz for a minute, check that you have adjusted the truss rod correctly (press down the string at the first fret, and at the last fret at the same time with your thumb on the other hand) and look at the gap between the string and the 12th fret. If there is no relief gap your truss rod is too tight, if there is a huge gap its too loose. Aim for between .25mm and .5mm relief gap.[/quote]First things first; how do I measure a gap that narow?

[mcnach]

[quote name='wishface' timestamp='1347542781' post='1802188']
You do realise that's a straw man argument. what is it that's not set up correctly then?
[/quote]



how about the fact that it buzzes, for starters?

the kind of issues you seem to have are issues I don't have with £60 basses... if set up.

There is only so much people can do from a couple of pictures and at a distance, unfortunately.

The inexpensiveness of your bass -which is not that inexpensive, anyway- has nothing to do with your issues. You should see teh first MM Stingray I ever tried when I was looking for one to buy ...

[wishface]

[quote name='mcnach' timestamp='1347545199' post='1802235']


how about the fact that it buzzes, for starters?

the kind of issues you seem to have are issues I don't have with £60 basses... if set up.

There is only so much people can do from a couple of pictures and at a distance, unfortunately.

The inexpensiveness of your bass -which is not that inexpensive, anyway- has nothing to do with your issues. You should see teh first MM Stingray I ever tried when I was looking for one to buy ...
[/quote]I think you are missing my point.

I called it a straw man argument because what other bass guitars, regardless of their price, can do has no bearing on what mine does. It is entirely possible that manufacturer X can make great £60 basses just as Spector can make the instrument I have - not even the entuire line - less great.

[mcnach]

[quote name='wishface' timestamp='1347543543' post='1802202']
Is it any wonder why? Someone posts a straw man statement and then someone else goes '+1', as if they were doing arithmetic. A bunch of suggestions were made, all of which I followed, and then was accused of not following them by people who couldn't possibly have known either way that didn't read what I had written.If a set of top quality new strings (are you going to tell me these are duff strings too?) haven't made any difference to the considerable volume difference in the E string then the only rational assumption is that it's the pickup. Why? because it's more likely than not that the manufacturer chose a lower quality pickup for a lower price bass. Do all Spector basses come with this exact brand of pickup? Why not, if they are good enough then surely that would make sense, wouldn't it? Save on costs at least.
[/quote]




you have made up you mind that you know what the issue is, just because it makes sense and you can't think of anything else.

It is possible that you are right.

However, a lot of other people with extensive experience think that there may be other issues rather than the pickup itself.

You have tried to follow instructions, but clearly you are inexperienced and as well-meaning as most of us are, it's very difficult to be comprehensive and explain everything in such a way that you will get it absolutely right, without prior experience. One thing is to know how to do it, another to be able to explain it.

As for your "straw man" argument. I will insist: a cheap instrument will show its cheapness in many ways... but as there's nothing terribly hi-tech in these instruments, even the cheapest one is *functional*. I've owned -and gigged some of them for fun- some very very cheap instruments. Instruments of lower quality than yours. And you know what? They sounded perfectly fine. NOthing amazing, but fine. However you seem to have made your mind up that because your bass is not terribly expensive, every problem you find with it is something to be accepted and par for the course. And that's where you are wrong. Sadly you will not let anyone *show* you just how wrong you are and give you the chance to improve your bass. Yet you still argue.
It's a shame, because I am positive you could have a beautifully playing bass in your hands if only you spent some energy doing something about it. Someone local could give you a hand, for free, but you will not accept that either.

You do realise that none of has have anything to gain by arguing with you, don't you?

If people keep chiming in is because... I don't know... I'll speak for myself in this case as I can't presume to know what's on everybody else's minds. I keep checking this thread because I *love* bass, and I derive some kind of strange pleasure from contributing to somebody else's enjoyment of their bass. When someone has problems with their bass, and I think I may be able to help, I try. I know that I learnt a lot in fora like this one over the years, and I'm happy to soend soem time trying to help others when I can. I am sure many others feel the same way.

But you are becoming irritatingly frustrating in your stubbornness (I say this with a smile, please don't be offended).
I wish I knew what's wrong with your bass. I would have to have it in front of me at this stage. But when it moves like a duck, quacks like a duck, etc... A bass is a simple instrument, yet there are a bunch of things that all have to work together to make it function nicely. It's extremely hard to troubleshoot and set up a bass by proxy, especially when teh person who will do the actual manual work has no experience.

get help in person, and stop blaming the price of the bass for a bunch of things that most probably have nothing to do with the cost of teh bass.

[mcnach]

[quote name='wishface' timestamp='1347546245' post='1802263']
I think you are missing my point.

I called it a straw man argument because what other bass guitars, regardless of their price, can do has no bearing on what mine does. It is entirely possible that manufacturer X can make great £60 basses just as Spector can make the instrument I have - not even the entuire line - less great.
[/quote]


My point was that while it is entirely possible that you are in possession of one bass Spector made that lacks in many respects... that seems to be a not very convincing explanation.

Why?

because the sort of "problems" you describe can be attributed to other reasons than "build quality".

The thing is that these days it's hard to find an instrument that is truly terrible. When you said in one of your first posts that you adjusted teh action to x level and, ah well, not as low as you'd like but it's what you can expect from a cheap bass (or something loosely along those lines)... that comment made me join in and write. Because I routinely take cheap basses and make them play nice. I don't accept the limitation you imply. As long as the neck is straight, etc... an electric bass, especially a bolt-on one, is a ridiculously simple object (although tricky to set up just right, in some ways). It's the kind of object that you don't need ultra high precision manufacturing to make right.

But if it makes you feel better, I'll just say you are right and that your bass is crap and that's all you can do about it. I have nothing to gain either way.

[GregBass]

[quote name='wishface' timestamp='1347544299' post='1802214']
First things first; how do I measure a gap that narow?
[/quote]

I use a feeler gauge. You can buy them pretty cheap from car parts stores like Halfords.

You say you have followed all the suggestions, but I posted the first of a set of four videos earlier in this thread. If you had watched that, you would have actually seen an expert luthier tweaking the truss rod and measuring string height.The series then goes on to show you how to cut the nut correctly, set action at the bridge and adjust the intonation and pickups. A full setup, with demonstrations - and it's free on YouTube.

[ern500evo]

Sorry to repeat what's already been said many times, but your best plan of action is a set-up. Whether it be by a professional or a helpful BC'er. Ignore the cost of the bass, a £5000 bass can play like sh*t if it's not set up properly. If you'd rather take it to a shop than have someone come do it for you, get yourself on a bus/train/coach into Bristol and take it to Eltham Jones who now works out of Mickleburgh's. He set up my old USA P bass for about £45 and the difference was amazing. He's not there every day so give him a call first, his number is 07971 240296. Hope you get it sorted because Spector's are great basses to play, even the cheaper one's, My NS2000 was about £450 and i can't imagine me ever parting with it. Good luck with getting it sorted.

[thebrig]

My first bass was a Squier Affinity (cheap as chips) series Precision bass, that cost me £125 brand new only about five years ago, and it played and sounded great.

Less than half the price of your Spector, and I'm sure whoever has it now, it is still doing the business.

For the price of a set-up, you could probably pick up a Sue Ryder bass in the for sale section, sell yours at the same time, probably for more than the Sue Ryder, so you might be a few quid to the good in the process.

[BassTractor]

As far as I understand, we've never established whether the neck is slightly twisted or is irregular. Have we?
Since I'm a newbie, I can't delve into this, but my Axl's neck was twisted, and no choice of action would make it silent. Many decades ago, I was also trying to play a guitar that had a bump on the fretboard.
Thought it better to mention it and be wrong than leaving it unmentioned.

best,
bert

[brensabre79]

I have never used feeler gauges or anything so technical. If you have a ruler with millimeters you can pretty easily see a gap that is roughly 1/4 to 1/2 a mm - that's as accurate as you need to be at this stage. We'll get on to perfecting the set-up to your tastes once we've established that your bass isn't crap, it's just set up badly or faulty. If you can follow all the instructions (the ones left by me are pretty similar to the ones left by other people so pick whichever you can follow most easily) and get rid of the buzz then we can move on to the pickup issue.

I have to say though, as someone trying to help (I know I'm not the only one), I'm getting tired of all the argumentative posting on here (by all parties) it makes a step by step process very difficult when you have to scroll through pages of "you said this.." "I said that..." " you don't know sh*t..." etc.

I'm not picking a fight here or inviting a plethora of comments as to why what I've said is wrong or offensive in any way. Let's just get this bloody bass sorted eh?

[wishface]

[quote name='GregBass' timestamp='1347547080' post='1802278']
I use a feeler gauge. You can buy them pretty cheap from car parts stores like Halfords.

You say you have followed all the suggestions, but I posted the first of a set of four videos earlier in this thread. If you had watched that, you would have actually seen an expert luthier tweaking the truss rod and measuring string height.The series then goes on to show you how to cut the nut correctly, set action at the bridge and adjust the intonation and pickups. A full setup, with demonstrations - and it's free on YouTube.
[/quote]if i tell you that I have done what was suggested you can take that to the bank, my friend.

[Beer of the Bass]

[quote name='wishface' timestamp='1347544299' post='1802214']
First things first; how do I measure a gap that narow?
[/quote]
I use thin Dunlop picks as a rough guide to the size of the gap. They go down to 0.5mm, have the thickness written on them, and only cost a few pence. Either that or eyeball it against a ruler marked in mm as above.

[Conan]

[quote name='brensabre79' timestamp='1347549512' post='1802328']
Let's just get this bloody bass sorted eh?
[/quote]

Yup! And on that note, I asked a question a few pages back about the tuners themselves. Are they firmlly attached to the headstock or is it possible that one of them is rattling, causing what could easily sound like fret buzz?

[wishface]

A gap that's less than half a mm will be problematic as the string vibrates furtgher than that when it's plucked so it will come into contact with the fret.

[nottswarwick]

I say to the OP with the best of intentions - are you confident that you have followed all the advice given competently? No offence intended, but if you can confidently say that you have, then the thread is over, as the bass is a pile of cr*p.

But I suspect that you might not be able to answer "yes" in which case, outside help is required.

Or just stick it in the for sale ads and someone will buy it, and then you will be able to replace it with something that you like.....

All the best

Chris

Edited for spelling

Edited September 13, 2012 by nottswarwick

[wishface]

[quote name='mcnach' timestamp='1347546480' post='1802267']


you have made up you mind that you know what the issue is, just because it makes sense and you can't think of anything else.

It is possible that you are right.

However, a lot of other people with extensive experience think that there may be other issues rather than the pickup itself.

You have tried to follow instructions, but clearly you are inexperienced and as well-meaning as most of us are, it's very difficult to be comprehensive and explain everything in such a way that you will get it absolutely right, without prior experience. One thing is to know how to do it, another to be able to explain it.

As for your "straw man" argument. I will insist: a cheap instrument will show its cheapness in many ways... but as there's nothing terribly hi-tech in these instruments, even the cheapest one is *functional*. I've owned -and gigged some of them for fun- some very very cheap instruments. Instruments of lower quality than yours. And you know what? They sounded perfectly fine. NOthing amazing, but fine. However you seem to have made your mind up that because your bass is not terribly expensive, every problem you find with it is something to be accepted and par for the course. And that's where you are wrong. Sadly you will not let anyone *show* you just how wrong you are and give you the chance to improve your bass. Yet you still argue.
It's a shame, because I am positive you could have a beautifully playing bass in your hands if only you spent some energy doing something about it. Someone local could give you a hand, for free, but you will not accept that either.

You do realise that none of has have anything to gain by arguing with you, don't you?

If people keep chiming in is because... I don't know... I'll speak for myself in this case as I can't presume to know what's on everybody else's minds. I keep checking this thread because I *love* bass, and I derive some kind of strange pleasure from contributing to somebody else's enjoyment of their bass. When someone has problems with their bass, and I think I may be able to help, I try. I know that I learnt a lot in fora like this one over the years, and I'm happy to soend soem time trying to help others when I can. I am sure many others feel the same way.

But you are becoming irritatingly frustrating in your stubbornness (I say this with a smile, please don't be offended).
I wish I knew what's wrong with your bass. I would have to have it in front of me at this stage. But when it moves like a duck, quacks like a duck, etc... A bass is a simple instrument, yet there are a bunch of things that all have to work together to make it function nicely. It's extremely hard to troubleshoot and set up a bass by proxy, especially when teh person who will do the actual manual work has no experience.

get help in person, and stop blaming the price of the bass for a bunch of things that most probably have nothing to do with the cost of teh bass.
[/quote]

i have done exactly what i was instructed to do on this thread and you accuse me of being stubborn? You are either trying to take the piss or you can't read.

[brensabre79]

[quote name='wishface' timestamp='1347550193' post='1802340']
A gap that's less than half a mm will be problematic as the string vibrates furtgher than that when it's plucked so it will come into contact with the fret.
[/quote]
The half mm I talked about is the neck RELIEF gap - when the string is pressed down at the first and last fret, not the distance between the strings and the fretboard when the string is plucked. What you're talking about is the ACTION height and it should be 2 - 3mm at least

If you have a RELIEF gap of 2mm you will have a banana shaped neck and it will make the bass difficult to play. Also if you go for a low action you will definitely get fret buzz.

[url="http://www.fender.com/en-GB/support/articles/bass-guitar-setup-guide/"]Here[/url] is a link to a very useful setup guide which explains everything I've said. I know its for Fender but the same applies for your bass.

[wishface]

[quote name='brensabre79' timestamp='1347550998' post='1802360']
The half mm I talked about is the neck RELIEF gap - when the string is pressed down at the first and last fret, not the distance between the strings and the fretboard when the string is plucked. What you're talking about is the ACTION height and it should be 2 - 3mm at least

If you have a RELIEF gap of 2mm you will have a banana shaped neck and it will make the bass difficult to play. Also if you go for a low action you will definitely get fret buzz.

[url="http://www.fender.com/en-GB/support/articles/bass-guitar-setup-guide/"]Here[/url] is a link to a very useful setup guide which explains everything I've said. I know its for Fender but the same applies for your bass.
[/quote]i have set the neck relief as instructed, as near as I can measure. Then i got fret buzz. That didn't exist before I adjusted the truss rod.

[brensabre79]

Right, so go to the next step... set the action height at the bridge and then check the nut.

Where are you getting the fret buzz? 1st fret? 5th fret? everywhere?

[wishface]

[quote name='brensabre79' timestamp='1347550998' post='1802360']
The half mm I talked about is the neck RELIEF gap - when the string is pressed down at the first and last fret, not the distance between the strings and the fretboard when the string is plucked. What you're talking about is the ACTION height and it should be 2 - 3mm at least

If you have a RELIEF gap of 2mm you will have a banana shaped neck and it will make the bass difficult to play. Also if you go for a low action you will definitely get fret buzz.

[url="http://www.fender.com/en-GB/support/articles/bass-guitar-setup-guide/"]Here[/url] is a link to a very useful setup guide which explains everything I've said. I know its for Fender but the same applies for your bass.
[/quote]what is neck radius? That guide references stuff I don't know and have never heard of

[brensabre79]

Ignore that, for now we are looking at approximate measurements, there's really so little between them you don't need to worry once the basic setup is sorted you can experiment to get it just how you want it. Hence my guide - which I trust you have printed out and read through several times by now - was very simplified. First we just need to get your bass somewhere near set-up properly so we can determine what the problem is by ruling everything out.

The neck radius is the curve of the fingerboard, you'll notice its not completely flat it has a slight curve to it.

[Evil Undead]

My god this is still going on.

I really wish I had this bass in front of me with my tools. I can almost guarantee that I'd have it sorted in less than two hours.