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Posted

All my basses have been 34" and I buy them for their sound and playability.
35" wouldn't be a problem but I agree that B's are defined by the way they are made
rather than lenght alone.
Having said that, wouldn't use anything less than 34",,,,, as they are hairdresser's basses :lol: :lol:

Posted

[quote name='paul torch' timestamp='1351360743' post='1850558']
It's not the length but what you do with it that counts.

;-)
[/quote]

Ho ho, good one!

So how do you Measure scale length? I want to check what mine are now!

Posted

I know my Jazz basses are 34" but it didn't affect my choice (I just wanted a jazz bass!).

I have no idea about the headless (my main gigging bass).

The short scale violin bass was easy to play like a guitar lol bit I bought it for it's looks not scale length.

So, no to the OP I guess :D

Posted (edited)

[quote name='Angel' timestamp='1351362998' post='1850598']


Ho ho, good one!

So how do you Measure scale length? I want to check what mine are now!
[/quote]
measure from the nut to the 12th fret then times by 2

Edited by paul torch
Posted (edited)

The main difference I notice between my 34" and 35" is that chords are a little more of a strain to play (although the action is set higher than my 34") and that muted notes when playing fingerstyle are a lot clearer and firmer sounding. I don't know if that's due to the scale length or piezo pickup though. I like the feel of both but 34" definitely feels a lot more comfortable for me.

I can't say scale length would sway my choice of wether to (or not to) buy a bass. Unless it was a short scale, in which case I wouldn't buy it...just hate the feel of them, feel like a guitar to me

Edited by Cameronj279
Posted

[quote name='paul torch' timestamp='1351365516' post='1850628']

measure from the nut to the 12th fret then times by 2
[/quote] (it's nut to bridge but as halving the distance gives you an octave , this is the easier way of working it out )

Posted

[quote name='gapiro' timestamp='1351416237' post='1850867']
(it's nut to bridge but as halving the distance gives you an octave , this is the easier way of working it out )
[/quote]

That's what I always used to do but was recommended the method I posted. I know that in theory it gives the same result but I think it's something to do with intonation. I'm sure someone will be along to correct me at some point.

Posted

I only own 34" basses, but I love playing my mate's 32" Fender Stu Hamm Urge I (it's an awesome bass in many respects, but the shorter scale is great). I also had a go on another friend's 33" custom recently, was an absolute delight!

So yes, I prefer something just under 34", but I'm content enough with 34" for the time being.

Posted

I think the worst part of scale length differences to me is when players use a shorter scale to their advantage. They can do things on a 32" that's harder on a 35" scale. So, come time to learn it some parts can be damn near impossible!
I think string spacing also caters into this as well as neck profile. A 35" scale length 6-string with 19mm spacing with a hard V profile...that'd be interesting to play haha!

Posted

[quote name='Muzz' timestamp='1351329825' post='1850095']
I love the Dingwall multi scale, 34 to 36.25, all in four strings! No problems changing mid-gig to a normal 34", either.
[/quote]

I wish Dingwall would do, say, a 32 - 34" ish five string.

Posted

I don't think the difference between 34" and 35" is really a big deal,the biggest factor for me is the size
of the body. My Roscoe LG3500 is a 35" scale,and it feels really long because the body is small.
My Shuker Singlecut is also 35" but the larger body makes it feel a bit more comfortable. In the same way,
my Warwick feels longer than my Fender because of the body size but they are both 34".
I've also got a couple of short scale basses (30" and 32") and they are alright,but generally I prefer 34" or 35".

Posted

[quote name='andyjingram' timestamp='1351516079' post='1851990']
Measuring scale length as 'nut to 12 fret x 2' is for the simple reason that the saddles are moveable. Any bass with it's intonation set correctly will have each saddle a different distance from the nut. A bass with very high action might have them much further from the nut than one with very low action, or the bass may just not be intonated properly. Bottom line, string lengths for a given scale will not always be the same- the distance of nut to 12th fret ([b]unless you have some [i]serious[/i] bass problems[/b]) will be the same on any bass of a given scale.
[/quote]

or a compensated nut!

Posted

I switched from guitar to bass around 4 months ago. I thought I'd go for a short scale so there wouldn't be too much difference in the neck and I bought an SG. I've spent loads of hours on the SG and played nothing else until a couple of days ago when I went to jam with a mate. I used his P bass and I was surprised I had no problems at all for the 3 hours or so we played. I had to watch my left hand for a while but soon settled into it.

Posted

I bought my son a Hofner Icon and finally got around to putting TI flats on it. What a blast! The G string definitely sounds meatier than it does on a 34, but the E sounds tubbier (definite difference; I'd been playing my P strung with TI flats all day). It would be nice if TI would sell sets of flats balanced the way Circle K does it.

Posted

As a musician highly interested in math and physics, I'd say they're essential.
As a bass noob, I've yet to hear their impact. I'm convinced they do make a difference though, as physics command that they do.
Sorry I can't be of more help. But give me 5 years, and ...

best,
bert

Posted

I've spent quite a long time now with my Ritter which is a 33.3" scale. It doesn't immediately feel hugely different to my 34" Fenders or Foderas but after a while playing I find I'm definitely more comfortable on the Ritter.

I use to play mosty 35" 5'ers and got on with them fine but fairly convinced that this 33.3" is the best for me.

I notice far more of a difference in stretching and hand cramping on a small bodied bass with a headstock strap button that falls closer to the body than a 'regular' bass.

Posted (edited)

[color=#A4A4A4][size=3]Posted 03 November 2012 - 02:55 PM[/size][/color]

[color=#282828][size=3][b][url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&section=findpost&pid=1852236"][/url]Count Bassy, on 29 October 2012 - 04:56 PM, said:[/b][/size]

[size=3]or a compensated nut![/size]

No, [i]you[/i] are! ;)[/color]




[color=#282828]Damn - I've been rumbled.[/color]

Edited by Count Bassy
Posted

[quote name='BassTractor' timestamp='1352071649' post='1858517']
As a musician highly interested in math and physics, I'd say they're essential.
[/quote]

I just dont get them - surely they only affect any notes played open string?

As I understand it, they are used on a guitar to make the B a little sharper which makes it better harmonically related to the other strings when playing common open chords - as bassists, we just dont have that problem. Am I missing something?

Posted

As far as playing is concerned: It does when the difference is bigger than 1" for me.
For example going from a 34" to a 36".

About tonal properties everything below 33" just sound bmmmphhhh / thumpy IMO unless it's picolo stringed.

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