Professional Setups

[Schnozzalee]

How much do they usually cost?? I've seen setups offered from £40 to £120 and just wanted to know what's the norm??

[Mr. Foxen]

Depends what they actually do. As you can see from MDP in the ebay section, a lot of people can describe themselves as pro. This is what you get for a £45 setup from an actually fussy luthier sort: http://www.edgeguitarservices.co.uk/rout_serv/basic.htm

But local guitar shop guy will do one for £15 including strings that is fiddle with the adjustables and clean the board. I do basic stuff for some bottled ales.

[Schnozzalee]

Hahaha MDP...*sigh*. The frustrating bit is i'm good at everything but faffing about with the nut and well worn frets so I never know when they come into play! I guess every guitar needs to be professionally setup initially, £45 would be great though! I'm pretty sure it's just the nut but to fork out £100 on one gauge of nut files and then botch it is...well, not worth thinking about. Three bottles o black sheep and i'm no used to anyone

EDIT: Just realised I met that Eltham at Cardiff Bass Bash ^^, was surprised when he said 40 odd quid for a setup

Edited November 9, 2012 by Schnozzalee

[Mr. Foxen]

I'll file you nut for three bottles of black sheep. Not often you;ll get an offer like that.

If its guitar nut filing: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Welding-and-Cutting-Torch-Tips-Nozzle-Cleaners-Set-x-2-R10-/150943007306?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2324e7824a

for bass, just a tapered round needle file or two is all you need. Nothing specialist about them.

[Dingus]

If all your bass needs is adjustment rather than any structural work such as nut or fret work then I think £45 is actually a little steep unless it is being worked on by some uber-professional . I f nut and frety work is called for then obviously, that would have a significant additional charge, but basic adjustment should be more in the £30 range or less, very generally speaking. I can't do nut or fret work ect and would always entrust that to a pro, but I find the only person who can adjust my basses the way I like them is myself ( surprisingly enough) , and so do all that myself. I've had pro setups done in the past but always been dissatisfied with the results.

[Mr. Foxen]

Nut is pretty key to being set up. Not really a setup unless it is right.

[Silvia Bluejay]

Hey, I've read that Edge Guitars list and relised I do all of that on all of my basses, without any fuss! BUT - aren't Warwicks clever in that they have an adjustable nut?? I mean, can't see why that hasn't been more widely adopted, it's a bit like all car makers only manufacturing manual cars with just Jaguar or BMW selling automatic models.
Having said that, I have filed the nut (and also the bridge) of a righty upright and turned it quite satisfactorily into a lefty.

[Dingus]

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1352480918' post='1863691']
Nut is pretty key to being set up. Not really a setup unless it is right.
[/quote]

+1 on that. Absolutely essential.

[Cameronj279]

The guy/guys at Sei Bass will do a set up for £35...

[Lozz196]

The luthier I use, Terry Chapman, of TJC Guitars in Stevenage does this for £50:

• Level, dress and polish the frets
• Clean and oil the fretboard
• Check, clean and lubricate electronics
• Re-cut nut to suit (if necessary)
• Set pickup heights
• Set intonation, action and truss rod
• Clean and lubricate bridge screws
• Set Tremolo (if applicable)
• Check all hardware
• Fit new strings
• Full clean and polish

And my basses feel great when I get them back from him.

[TheGreek]

[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1352489436' post='1863856']
The luthier I use, Terry Chapman, of TJC Guitars in Stevenage does this for £50:

• Level, dress and polish the frets
• Clean and oil the fretboard
• Check, clean and lubricate electronics
• Re-cut nut to suit (if necessary)
• Set pickup heights
• Set intonation, action and truss rod
• Clean and lubricate bridge screws
• Set Tremolo (if applicable)
• Check all hardware
• Fit new strings
• Full clean and polish

And my basses feel great when I get them back from him.
[/quote]

Terry did some work on my Washburn Status recently (like Lozz I try to use Terry where poss)...charged me £65 for replacing a damaged jack socket, repair and replacement parts on the pre amp, resoldering a loose wire on a pick up, clean and polished fretboard and a set up. Pretty good value I think..

[stinson]

Yep, Terry's the man.

[BassBus]

I use Chris McIntyre in Edinburgh (and sometimes London). Setup including filing the nut £35 . Telling me it's a blend pot and not the volume I thought it was, no charge. That's why the pickup didn't work. Doh!

Edited November 9, 2012 by BassBus

[KingBollock]

I can do most of what needs doing, though a lack of confidence tends to make some of it more stressful than it meeds to be. But I haven't a clue when it comes to fret levelling or dressing; I don't even know when it is an issue, nevermind actually sorting it out.

So I would like to be able to go to a pro to get it looked at and maybe get a whole set-up while it's there. But how well would a pro take me wanting to sit with them for a while to discuss the foibles of my Bass and what I want done exactly?

I love the idea of a stainless steel nut as mentioned on that Edge site, but it's a bit pricey. Might have to have a look at cutting one myself one day. It would look ace along with the steel frets already on the Bass.

[3below]

[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1352489436' post='1863856']
The luthier I use, Terry Chapman, of TJC Guitars in Stevenage does this for £50:

• Level, dress and polish the frets
• Clean and oil the fretboard
• Check, clean and lubricate electronics
• Re-cut nut to suit (if necessary)
• Set pickup heights
• Set intonation, action and truss rod
• Clean and lubricate bridge screws
• Set Tremolo (if applicable)
• Check all hardware
• Fit new strings
• Full clean and polish

And my basses feel great when I get them back from him.
[/quote]

Should you be in Mid Wales, Tony Revell does same at same ball park. Sometimes you can not sort out your own kit, in my case it was my Heritage 575 archtop. I have had 2 basses and 2 guitars set up by Tony, all superb and with all he has sorted subtle issues I had not noticed apart from being unable to get them just so. Most of the time I fix my own kit. As a bonus he helped me respoke and rebuild a bike wheel, another money saving life skill.

[Cosmo Valdemar]

[quote name='BassBus' timestamp='1352494339' post='1863942']
I use Chris McIntyre in Edinburgh (and sometimes London). Setup including filing the nut £35 . Telling me it's a blend pot and not the volume I thought it was, no charge. That's why the pickup didn't work. Doh!
[/quote]

I used to take all my stuff to Chris when he was in Peckham, he's excellent. Edinburgh is a bit of a mission for me now though.

[dmccombe7]

Here's an extract from Fender that might help to get you a basic set up and if you feel this isnt enough you can take it to a luthier. Remember only small truss rod adjustments at at time.

All best
Dave



Bass Guitar Setup Guide [url="http://www.fender.com/en-GB/support/articles/bass-guitar-setup-guide/#prodRef"]View products this article applies to.[/url]

[url="http://www.fender.com/en-GB/support/articles/bass-guitar-setup-guide/#"]Problem Description[/url]
How do I set up my bass guitar properly? How do I change the strings? How do I adjust the truss rod? How do I set the intonation on my guitar?

[url="http://www.fender.com/en-GB/support/articles/bass-guitar-setup-guide/#top"]Back to top[/url]
[url="http://www.fender.com/en-GB/support/articles/bass-guitar-setup-guide/#"]Solution[/url]
[url=""][/url]

[b] FENDER® BASS ADJUSTMENT AND CARE[/b]

The following setup procedures and specifications are for you Fender bass as equipped with the strings that come on the instrument as standard equipment from the factory. If you plan to change string gauges, you may need to adjust the specs somewhat to compensate for the changes in string sizes. Modifications of the specs may also be made (within limited parameters) to adjust for your individual playing style or application (i.e., how hard you pick, finger, slap, pop or fret the bass).
[i]Note: These are minimum specifications that are meant as a guide; they should not be construed as hard and fast rules, as we realize that every player's subjective requirements often differ.[/i]
[b] TOOLS NEEDED[/b]
[list]
[*]Set of automotive feeler gauges (.002-.025) (0.05–1 mm)
[*]6" (150 mm) ruler (with 1/32" and 1/64" increments) (0.5 mm increments)
[*]Light machine oil (3-in-1, toy locomotive or gun oil)
[*]Phillips screwdriver
[*]Electronic tuner
[*]Wire cutters
[*]Peg winder
[*]Polish and cloth
[/list]
[b] STRINGS[/b]

New strings can breathe new life into your bass. Much of the thump and pop you expect from your bass starts right there. For strings to stay in tune, they should be changed regularly. Strings that have lost their integrity (worn where pressed against the fret) or have become oxidised, rusty and dirty will not return to pitch properly. To check if your strings need changing, run a finger underneath the string and feel for dirt, rust or flat spots. If you find any of these, you should change your strings.
Fender offers a variety of bass strings—smooth, vintage-sounding pure-nickel Original Bass 7150s; Super Bass 7250s; bright, snappy Stainless Steel 7350s and others. They are available in long, medium and short scales; taper-wound; and top-loading or string-through-body types
Because of the amount of tension on the neck, it's advisable to replace and tune each new string before removing the next string. After the whole set is changed and tuned, stretch your strings properly by holding them at the first fret and hooking your fingers under each string (one at a time) and then tugging lightly, moving your hand from the bridge to the neck. Re-tune and repeat several times.
[url="http://www.fender.com/en-GB/support/articles/bass-guitar-setup-guide/#top"]Back to Top[/url]
[b] TUNING KEYS[/b]

How you wind the strings onto the pegs is very important. Start by loading them through the bridge and then loading them onto the appropriate keys as follows:
[b]Standard keys[/b]. Pre-cut each string for the proper length and desired amount of winds. Pull the fourth string 3" (76 mm) past its tuning post and cut it (make sure to pull each string taut). Insert through the eyelet in the tuning key, allowing approximately 1/16" (1.6 mm) of the end to extend through the eyelet, then wind neatly in a downward pattern, being carefull to prevent overlapping. Pull the third string 3 1//2" (89 mm) past its tuning post, cut it, and repeat the winding procedure. Pull the second and first strings 3 1/2" (89 mm) past their tuning posts and cut and wind as noted. For five-string basses, cut the fifth string 3" (76 mm) past its tuning post and repeat the same cutting and winding procedure.
[b]Vintage keys[/b]. Pre-cut each string for the proper length and desired amount of winds. Pull the fourth string 4" (102 mm) past its tuning post and cut it (again, make sure to pull each string taut). Insert into the center hole of the tuning key, bend and crimp to a 90° angle, and wind neatly in a downward pattern, being carefull to prevent overlapping. Pull the third string 4 1/2" (114 mm) past its tuning post, cut it, and repeat the winding procedure. Pull the second and first strings 4 1/2" (114 mm) past their tuning posts and cut and wind as noted. For five-string basses, cut the fifth string 3 1/2" (89 mm) past its tuning post and repeat the same cutting and winding procedure.
[b] INTONATION (ROUGHING IT OUT)[/b]

You can preset the basic intonation of your bass by taking a tape measure and measuring from the inside of the nut to the center of the 12th fret [i]([/i]the fret wire itself; not the fingerboard[i])[/i]. Double that measurement to find the scale length of your bass.
Adjust the first-string bridge saddle to this scale length, measuring from the inside of the nut to the center of the bridge saddle. Now adjust the distance of the second saddle back from the first saddle, using the gauge of the second string as a measurement. For example, if the second string is .060" (1.5 mm), you would move the second-string saddle back .060" (1.5 mm) from the first saddle. Move the third saddle back from the second saddle, using the gauge of the third string as a measurement. Adjust the fourth saddle in the same manner (and fifth if you have a five-string bass).
[i]Note: If you're using a taper-wound fourth string (and fifth if it's a five-string bass), use the actual gauge of the string for your measurement rather than the dimension of the tapered portion of the string.[/i]
[b] TRUSS ROD[/b]

First, check your tuning. Affix a capo at the first fret and depress the fourth string at the last fret. With a feeler gauge, check the gap between the bottom of the string and the top of the 8th fret—see the spec chart below for the proper gap.Caution: Because of the amount of string tension on the neck, you should loosen the strings before adjusting the truss rod. After the adjustment is made, re-tune the strings and re-check the gap with the feeler gauge.

Adjustment at headstock (allen wrench): Sight down the edge of the fingerboard from behind the headstock, looking toward the body of the instrument. If the neck is too concave (action too high), turn the truss rod nut clockwise to remove excess relief. If the neck is too convex (strings too close to the fingerboard), turn the truss rod nut counter-clockwise to allow the string tension to pull more relief into the neck. Check your tuning, then re-check the gap with the feeler gauge and re-adjust as needed.
Adjustment at neck joint (phillips screwdriver): Sight down the edge of the fingerboard from behind the body, looking up toward the headstock of the instrument. If the neck is too concave (action too high), turn the truss rod nut clockwise to remove excess relief. If the neck is too convex (strings too close to the fingerboard), turn the truss rod nut counter-clockwise to allow the string tension to pull more relief into the neck. Check your tuning, then re-check the gap with the feeler gauge and re-adjust as needed.
[i]Note: In either case, if you meet excessive resistance when adjusting the truss rod, if your instrument needs constant adjustment, if adjusting the truss rod has no effect on the neck, or if you're simply not comfortable making this type of adjustment yourself, take your instrument to your local Fender Authorized Dealer.[/i] [b]Neck Radius[/b]
7.25"
9.5" to 12"
15" to 17" [b]Relief[/b]
.014" (0.35 mm)
.012" (0.3 mm)
.010" (0.25 mm)
[url="http://www.fender.com/en-GB/support/articles/bass-guitar-setup-guide/#top"]Back to Top[/url]
[b] ACTION[/b]

Players with a light touch can get away with lower action; others need higher action to avoid rattles. First, check tuning. Using a 6" (150 mm) ruler, measure the distance between bottom of strings and top of the 17th fret. Adjust bridge saddles to the height according to the chart below, then re-tune. Experiment with the height until the desired sound and feel is achieved. [b]Neck Radius[/b] [b]String Height Bass Side[/b] [b]Treble Side[/b] 7.25"
9.5" to 12"
15" to 17" 7/64" (2.8 mm)
6/64" (2.4 mm)
6/64" (2.4 mm) 6/64" (2.4 mm)
5/64" (2 mm)
5/64" (2 mm)
[b] SHIMMING/MICRO-TILT™ ADJUSTMENT[/b]

Shimming is a procedure used to adjust the pitch of the neck in relation to the body. A shim is placed in the neck pocket, underneath the butt end of the neck. On many American series guitars, a Micro-Tilt adjustment is offered. It replaces the need for a shim by using a hex screw against a plate installed in the butt end of the neck. The need to adjust the pitch (raising the butt end of the neck in the pocket, thereby pitching the neck back) of the neck occurs in situations where the string height is high and the action adjustment is as low as the adjustment will allow.
To properly shim a neck, the neck must be removed from the neck pocket of the body. A shim approximately 1/4" (6.4 mm) wide by 1 3/4" (44.5 mm) long by .010" (0.25 mm) thick will allow you to raise the action approximately 1/32" (0.8 mm). For guitars with the Micro-Tilt adjustment, loosen the two neck screws on both sides of the adjustment access hole on the neckplate by at least four full turns. Tightening the hex adjustment screw with an 1/8" hex wrench approximately 1/4 turn will allow you to raise the action approximately 1/32". Retighten the neck screws when the adjustment is complete. The pitch of the neck on your guitar has been preset at the factory and in most cases will not need to be adjusted.
[i]Note: If you feel that this adjustment needs to be made and you're not comfortable doing it yourself, take your guitar to your local Fender Authorized Dealer.[/i]
[b] PICKUPS[/b]

Setting pickups too high can cause a number of unusual occurrences. Depress strings at last fret. Using a 6" (150 mm) ruler, measure the distance from the bottom of the first and fourth strings to top of the pole piece. A good rule of thumb is that the distance should be greatest at the fourth-string neck pickup position and closest at the first-string bridge pickup position. Follow the measurement guidelines from the chart below as starting points. The distance will vary according to the amount of magnetic pull from the pickup.
[i]Note: Larger string gauges need wider vibrational allowances. If you have a five-string bass or are using heavier-gauge strings, your measurements must be increased accordingly.[/i] [b]Bass Side[/b] [b]Treble Side[/b] [b]Vintage style[/b] 8/64" (3.6 mm) 6/64" (2.4 mm) [b]Noiseless™ Series[/b] 8/64" (3.6 mm) 6/64" (2.4 mm) [b]Standard "J" or "P"[/b] 7/64" (2.8 mm) 5/64" (2 mm) [b]Special Design Humbuckers[/b] 7/64" (2.8 mm) 5/64" (2 mm)
[b] INTONATION (FINE TUNING)[/b]

Adjustments should be made after all of the above have been accomplished. Set the pickup selector switch (if your bass has one) in the middle position, and turn the volume and tone controls to their maximum settings. Check tuning. Check each string at the 12th fret, harmonic to fretted note (make sure you are depressing the string evenly to the fret, not the fingerboard). If sharp, lengthen the string by adjusting the saddle back. If flat, shorten the string by moving the saddle forward. Remember, basses are tempered instruments! Re-tune, play and make further adjustments as needed.
[b] ADDITIONAL HINTS[/b]

There are a few other things that you can do to optimize your tuning stability that have more to do with playing and tuning habits.
Each time you play your bass, before you do your final tuning, play for a few minutes to allow the strings to warm up. Metal expands when warm and contracts when cool. After you've played a few riffs and done a few slaps and pops, you can then do your final tuning. Remember—with most tuning keys, it's preferable to tune up to pitch. However, with locking tuners, go past the note and tune down to pitch. Finally, wipe the strings, neck and bridge with a lint-free cloth after playing. When transporting or storing your bass, even for short periods, avoid leaving it anyplace you wouldn't feel comfortable yourself.

[BassBus]

[quote name='Cosmo Valdemar' timestamp='1352533156' post='1864241']
I used to take all my stuff to Chris when he was in Peckham, he's excellent. Edinburgh is a bit of a mission for me now though.
[/quote]

Chris still does some work in London. He's been there for this past week. Mostly based in Edinburgh though.

[Rothers]

I'm a working Guitar and Backline Tech.

In my downtime I have been known to do set-ups (Do them all the time on the road). I charge £15 per hour. That way you only pay for what needs doing, not a flat rate.

The most basic set up would be a fret and fretboard clean and polish, graphite on the nut, re-string, check and adjust truss rod and bridge to give the perfect action. Then set intonation. Bridge should be set initially to the same radius as the fretboard and can be adjusted to suit from that starting point, re-adjusting the intonation as I go.

[daz]

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1352472105' post='1863529']

But local guitar shop guy will do one for £15 including strings that is fiddle with the adjustables and clean the board. [/quote]£15 including strings!!! What strings does he put on. A set he found in the bin ? ?

[Mr. Foxen]

Peavey strings. Does it on the shop counter so he's going to be there anyway.

[Schnozzalee]

Lol I'd take Foxen's offer if I was down Bristol way, used to be in Cardiff and I used the guy at Cardiff Guitars until I heard Eltham mention 40 odd pound. Edinburgh is a possibility for me, thank you! Dave Wilson (ex-Overwater) has quoted me £40 so i'm probably going to take him up on it as soon as I can get out to Haltwhistle, Northumberland. Thanks guys, very helpful thread

[GreeneKing]

I can't dress frets, especially if some are low. I bought a new Tony Butler sig Vintage P at a good price but the frets are awful. Rather than send it back I decided to invest in my 1st luthier appointment. Phil Hartley in Bolton does a set up for £40 and will add a fret dress for another £60 including nut work.

I'm waiting to see when it's ready and hoping that it'll be transformed. It'll still just be a P bass though

[steve-soar]

I do set ups, fret dressing and general repairs. A good set up with strings for a bass, assumining the neck has no high or low frets, is £20, plus strings.

If the neck has fretting issues, ie, low or high frets, then it becomes a fret dress, not a set up.

A fret-stoning, which includes individual reprofiling of each fret once the crowns of the lowest and highest frets have been fattened to match all the other frets, then going through the grades of carbon paper until the final polish and set up, is £50.