Billy Apple Posted December 8, 2012 Share Posted December 8, 2012 Some of you might have seen my La Cab P build that is currently on its way to the UK... [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/182246-la-cabronita-porazzo-custom-precision-build/"]http://basschat.co.u...recision-build/[/url] The truss rod nut is in the vintage position on the heel of the neck.... I'm fine with adjusting the rods on my other basses, but they are all at the head-stock. Is there anyway to adjust the rod without busting up the neck pocket, and without removing the neck? This is a Warmoth neck with graphite stiffening rods. My plan is to put on La Bella 45-105 flats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happy Jack Posted December 8, 2012 Share Posted December 8, 2012 Hard to tell from the photo Sean, but if roughly half the trussrod is visible above the scratchplate then you can do it using a narrow, straight screwdriver (i.e. not a cross-head or Philips). If you put the blade into the half-rod slot that you can see, then you can make small adjustments with just a bit of care. I find it's easier using a long-shanked driver, gives a straighter angle for the twist if you see what I mean. If not enough of the trussrod is visible, then my advice would be to cut a Fenderesque slot to provide access. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big_Stu Posted December 8, 2012 Share Posted December 8, 2012 I read in a Fender book years ago that that was the reason for the move to the head. It said that it was adjusted by slackening the strings, slackening off rather than removing the pocket screws until the slot was clear of the body, making the truss adjustment & then reversing the process; repeat as necessary. My guess is in the pioneering days of the early Fender, choices of string gauge, action height etc wasn't as widely thought of as it is now, so it was a hassle you only had to go through once or twice in your playing life. It may be users since have heard of another method since, but I haven't heard of one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warwickhunt Posted December 8, 2012 Share Posted December 8, 2012 Stick the strings on and see what happens, it may be stiff enough or be already set-up for strings of that tension. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeFRC Posted December 8, 2012 Share Posted December 8, 2012 use threaded inserts and bolts to fasten the neck rather than screws - that way you can take the neck on and off till the cows come home and not worry about it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Apple Posted December 8, 2012 Author Share Posted December 8, 2012 [quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1354983252' post='1892635'] If not enough of the trussrod is visible, then my advice would be to cut a Fenderesque slot to provide access. [/quote] Maybe should've thought about this before the paint went on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Apple Posted December 8, 2012 Author Share Posted December 8, 2012 [quote name='Big_Stu' timestamp='1354983264' post='1892636'] I read in a Fender book years ago that that was the reason for the move to the head. It said that it was adjusted by slackening the strings, slackening off rather than removing the pocket screws until the slot was clear of the body, making the truss adjustment & then reversing the process; repeat as necessary. [/quote] Cheers Stu. I'm thinking that this is the right way. Bit of a faff like, but as you say, that's why it was moved. Although, having it at the heel must give a stronger head-stock join. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRedX Posted December 8, 2012 Share Posted December 8, 2012 There shouldn't be a headstock join. The whole point of the Fender non-angled headstock was that you could make the neck out of a smaller single piece of wood . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Apple Posted December 8, 2012 Author Share Posted December 8, 2012 [quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1354988156' post='1892715'] There shouldn't be a headstock join. The whole point of the Fender non-angled headstock was that you could make the neck out of a smaller single piece of wood . [/quote] Just my terminology, I just mean the mass of wood between the neck and head. There'll be more of it if there is no truss-rod bolt in the way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjones Posted December 8, 2012 Share Posted December 8, 2012 (edited) You're right it is a faff. I recommend also putting a bit of tape around the neck at the bridge when you loosen the neck join and loosen the strings, so they don't come free from the machine head posts and you have to rewind them all over again (which is just more faff). Edited December 8, 2012 by gjones Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big_Stu Posted December 8, 2012 Share Posted December 8, 2012 [quote name='Billy Apple' timestamp='1354984750' post='1892667'] Cheers Stu. I'm thinking that this is the right way. Bit of a faff like, but as you say, that's why it was moved. Although, having it at the heel must give a stronger head-stock join. [/quote] Did Fender ever replace the flush screw head with one that stuck out with holes drilled through it; you stuck a rod/screwdriver in it & turned, which meant not having to loosen the neck. I've seen copies with them (Kay for eg.) but dunno about Fenders. Might be possible to have it converted if it becomes an issue - though some might say they're fugly? Comme ca? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happy Jack Posted December 8, 2012 Share Posted December 8, 2012 I've had that style of trussrod adjustment on a couple of Italian basses (Ghersons). Very simple to operate... in fact, [i][b]too [/b][/i]simple to operate. It wouldn't be at all difficult to overtighten and potentially snap the trussrod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Apple Posted December 8, 2012 Author Share Posted December 8, 2012 (edited) You could cover the wheel with the pickguard, which would only have to come off now and then. Trouble with it though, is putting a shaft (snigger) into the rod and turning, is it gives you much greater leverage, increasing the potential for over tightening. Edited December 8, 2012 by Billy Apple Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big_Stu Posted December 8, 2012 Share Posted December 8, 2012 [quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1354990904' post='1892761'] I've had that style of trussrod adjustment on a couple of Italian basses (Ghersons). Very simple to operate... in fact, [i][b]too [/b][/i]simple to operate. It wouldn't be at all difficult to overtighten and potentially snap the trussrod. [/quote] A luthier once told me that the trick with a truss rod was to only ever turn them a quarter turn at most & leave it a day to settle - under tension - before adjusting again if needed, in the same way. I still never tried it, I've never had to. I kinda assumed - maybe wrongly - that that was an explanation for the design of the wheel method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Apple Posted December 9, 2012 Author Share Posted December 9, 2012 (edited) I had an email from Marc Rutter who built the body. He recommends to tighten the rod before the neck is fitted until there is a small back-bow. Then fit the neck and string to pitch. Check the relief and make a note of this. Then take off the neck, and adjust by the amount it was off target. He says it might have to be done a couple of times to get it fine tuned. I'm not sure how to go about measuring relief though, and how you can then adjust the neck with the strings off when there is nothing to measure from? Edited December 9, 2012 by Billy Apple Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Apple Posted December 9, 2012 Author Share Posted December 9, 2012 I found this on my perusals. I'm not so sure though, never once does he mention beeswax or taking an axe to the nut! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8MuTEsOCW6k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRedX Posted December 9, 2012 Share Posted December 9, 2012 You can measure the bow of a neck with the strings off by using a straight-edge along the frets. Tighten up the truss-rod until you can rock the straight-edge very slightly about its centre point. That will give you your starting point for neck adjustment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRISDABASS Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 use threaded inserts and bolts to fasten the neck rather than screws - that way you can take the neck on and off till the cows come home and not worry about it! .......what he said! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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