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Router Bits?


Dolando
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Hi,

I have built a few basses and guitars from parts and would like to try build a body from scratch for a stock neck, would like to build a neck as well, but I'd better walk before I run.

My dad has a performance power router, that he said I can have, but it is a cheap one. Is it worth getting a good one or will this get me started?

Also, any recommendations on essential bits I will need for pickup routing etc?

Thanks for the help and guidance.

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You can get away with a cheap router if you don't work it too hard. As long as there's no slop or run-out on the spindle it should be ok. The depth adjustment can be hit or miss on the lower end routers so double-double check before any important cuts are made.

Good cutters are very important, don't scrimp on these. I use and would recommend Wealden and Titman tooling (both are good British makers). I've never built a guitar but I'd imagine one or two 'up cut' or 'down cut' bearing guided straight's would cover most things. You might want one with end cut for doing pickup cavities and neck pockets

Is it a half inch collet?

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Great, will look into those parts/makes. Its only been used a couple of times, if that, so should be practically new.

Don't think its half inch though, it says 6.3 and 8mm. Is that an Issue? It's one of these;

http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/power-tools/grinding-routing/Performance-Power-Router-1020W-12389422?skuId=12910126

Thanks,

Adam

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6.3 and 8mm with be the shank size meaning you will just have to go easy and take smaller bites or you will end causing the bit to chatter and give a poor cut. Thinner = flexy. Just remember to look at the speed/feed rating on the bits and stick to it as this will help it last longer and give a better finish.

Just be wary of climb-cutting and end grain, that's where all the brown trouser moments happen.

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Quite agree with what Ben has said - just take small cuts, be patient and it easy at the end grain. I had a go on a test piece, got a bit eager and took a chunk out of the end grain. Would have been a pain to fix if it was the proper piece of wood but I learnt!!

I'm just completing the second bass I've made from [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/176477-scratch-built-bass-2/"]scratch[/url] and I have a Black and Decker router with a 1/4" shank. It's not the best bit of kit but it has done the job so the router you have should be fine. The router bits I have used are made by Trend mainly and seem to cope with the work well.

I'd also make sure you make decent templates for routing - time spent here will give you a better, more accurate result in the end and if you are pleased and decide to make another then you already have a template to cut to. Making a decent template for a neck pocket is in my opinion the way to go as you can practice a cut on a test piece of wood and adjust the template until it give you a nice, tidy pocket. Always go by the old saying 'measure twice, cut once'......

Definitely have a go - it's a nice feeling to say you made it yourself!

Cheers

Jez

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Hi

I agree - should be OK. I've just posted my latest full build 'Jack Bruce Fretless Tribute' in the 'Gear Porn' section. That was pretty much all done with a £70 'JCB' router from B&Q - including slimming the ebony fretboard from 10mm to 5mm!

Do practice, though and - as the others say - always take small amounts off each pass... kickback can ruin a guitar body quicker than you can say 'Oh, s***'

Andy

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Thanks so much for all the info guys. Much appreciated. I have literally no idea where to start, so will give that PDF a read to build up a a bit of knowledge before I start on some wood. And I will definitely be doing plenty of practice pieces. I won't be starting anything just yet, as I'm moving house soon, just doing a bit of digging.

This may be a silly question, but what do you make the templates out of? Surely if its wood, there is risk of cutting the template and ended up with the wrong shape, or is it just the case of being careful not to?

Thanks,

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[quote name='Dolando' timestamp='1357338573' post='1921469']My dad has a performance power router, that he said I can have, but it is a cheap one. Is it worth getting a good one or will this get me started?[/quote]

PP tools are B&Qs own make as I recall. I was looking for a router a couple of years ago. All of the reviews for the cheaper routers were bad. Loose handles making accuracy impossible, over-heating, small bits only able to be used. To buy one worth having for a one-off job made it cheaper to have a joiner do it for me.

Not to put you off, but I would strongly suggest you do a few practises on scrap wood to test the machines & your abilities before hitting your project. Certainly the wood-yard I use gives away scrap wood to locals for firewood.

As I understand it the bits/heads have a rotating collar on them which follows the template. Regular users of them make jigs that they clamp to a guitar for standard jobs; pickups routes, pot cavities, for eg.

Edited by Big_Stu
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should be ok with a cheap router with a good sharp bit as said titman are great dont be fooled by the marketing of some manufacturers like trend and dont rush into machining your body make a few jigs and run off off some scrap before going for the money shot (cheap cutters will be naff after running a few trial and error bodies) and get plenty of sand paper :P
if you get the copy wheel with the bearing near the collet you can use the same cutter for pick ups etc and save a few quid there only a fiver ish to have sharpened

Edited by mushers
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I've used the same 1/4" router for many years. It was less than £60 new. Trend bits are fine. You'll need a laminate trimmer, small short one and a bigger one for bodies and a straight 1/4" for truss rod slots. You'll find you need other stuff along the way but you can make do with very few bits for a start.
The main things aside from this are a planer/thicknesser, bandsaw and disc sander. I used a performance planer for a while before it cut the end of my thumb off. Very scary bit of 'kit'. A decent planer will set you back a good few hundred quid. The bandsaw needs to have a cut depth of 7". You can usually mod a slightly smaller/cheaper bandsaw to accomodate by removing the guides and making your own.
I shouldn't expect too much from your first builds although you'll be well chuffed initially. Just grab the basic tools and work your way up.

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[quote name='Dolando' timestamp='1357475487' post='1923041']
Thanks so much for all the info guys. Much appreciated. I have literally no idea where to start, so will give that PDF a read to build up a a bit of knowledge before I start on some wood. And I will definitely be doing plenty of practice pieces. I won't be starting anything just yet, as I'm moving house soon, just doing a bit of digging.

This may be a silly question, but what do you make the templates out of? Surely if its wood, there is risk of cutting the template and ended up with the wrong shape, or is it just the case of being careful not to?

Thanks,
[/quote]

You get router bits often referred to as template cutters. These are straight bits with a bearing about 1/4" tall on the shaft that is the same diameter as the cutter. You can make a template out of something about 1/4" thick such as some decent ply or mdf. When you run the cutter round your work piece with the bearing running round the template you get a perfect replica - the cutter can't cut too far into the wood as it is prevented by the bearing.

Here's a typical template cutter randomly picked from [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Trend-C121-X-1-4-Tungsten-Carbide-Template-Profile-1-4in-C121X1-4TC-Brand-New-/370664678145?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item564d562301"]eBay [/url]

Cheers

Jez

Edited by Jabba_the_gut
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