1x12 DIY Cab build

[6v6]

Re glue - I went with PVA in the end since I'm familiar with how to work with it, and I want something with plenty of assembly time, I guess it doesn't really make much differnce what I use, I will run a silicone bead round the inside to ensure things are airtight.

Some pics below - got a sheet of 15mm birch ply, cut to size at the timber merchant since I don't have access to a table saw and I wanted accurate, square cuts (to save time flush-trimming everything square with the router).

Decided to go with glue/screw butt joints, but with some biscuits added which will hopefully add some strength but also should make the assembly much easier too. Was thinking about just biscuits/glue, but don't really have enough clamps so will need the screws to hold everything tight while the glue goes off.

My dilemmas now before gluing it all up:
- Do I make the baffle/port removable? Was thinking of adding a batten/cleat to mount both to (as in pics below), then (securely) screwing them in place, then adding glue when I'm sure everything is OK with the tuning etc. The alternative is to add some more biscuits now and just glue it all up, but I'm thinking the removable idea should work provided I ensure things won't vibrate loose and are sealed up (more mastic!)

- Do I radius the entry/exit of the shelf port? Was planning to use a rounding-over bit on all external cab edges, so thinking I should also round over the port at each end, to potentially allow smoother air flow?

Next jobs (hopefully tomorrow):
- Cut baffle hole and input jack-plate hole
- Glue/screw box together
- Order some damping material, tolex, grill-cloth and hardware

Pics:

(edit - removed cut-list pic since I've since realized the baffle/port dimensions are wrong and will need adjusting slightly since the port needs to be flush with the front of the cab not the baffle)

Edited April 1, 2013 by 6v6

[6v6]

Bit more progress today, after looking at a few more shelf-ported designs, I figured out that the port should be flush with the front of the cab, not the baffle as I was originally intending, so I recalculated the port lengths and fitted a fixed port for a tuning of 50Hz, with an additional extension which takes the tuning down to ~42Hz, so I can easily experiment with the port but still glue the main section and divider in, providing a bit more strength.

[discreet]

Yay, it's a cab!!

[Phil Starr]

It's going well. If you decide to have the baffle removable, which helps if you decide you need to fiddle around with anything (bracing, stuffing?) after the initial build, then you need a batten to screw it to. Then you run draught proofing foam right round the batten so it is squashed as you screw the baffle down and forms a seal.

Now I just want to know how it sounds.

[pbaleiras]

hi mates....

So....how the construction is going?
Already reached the speaker?

Cheers

[6v6]

So, apologies for the lack of updates on this - earlier in the year we had some unexpected family medical stuff happen, and this project kinda got shelved (well left in the shed!) as a result.

Thankfully all much better now, so *finally* I'm back to making some progress on this. (Yes all those who said it would be easier and quicker to buy a used cab, you were very right! )

So the baffle and grille is now cut using an improvised circle cutter jig:

[6v6]

bracing added, baffle captive nuts fitted - I'm not sure if this is enough bracing?

[Phil Starr]

It's probably going to be enough, the cab is small, the panels thick and it is looking pretty well made. Put the speaker in and when you test it with the volume up feel the panels all over with your finger tips. If you feel particular parts vibrating excessively then you can add some extra bracing to those parts.

Welcome back and I hope the medical thing is sorted now.

[6v6]

Some progress, filled all the screw holes with tough 2-part polyester filler (took ages to sand down!), and currently making templates to rout (and recess so they sit flush) the holes for the speakon plate and the side handles.

Nearly there now, should fire it up this week (maybe even use it on a gig I have Friday! )

[Phil Starr]

Proper templates for the router, you put me to shame. I'm looking forward to seeing how you get on with how it sounds, I feel a bit responsible. It's a great little speaker and I love mine but recommending anything to someone else is always a risk. What amp will you use with it?

[6v6]

[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1379357170' post='2211735']
Proper templates for the router, you put me to shame. I'm looking forward to seeing how you get on with how it sounds, I feel a bit responsible. It's a great little speaker and I love mine but recommending anything to someone else is always a risk. What amp will you use with it?
[/quote]

Don't worry, I take full responsibility if it sounds bad or falls to bits!

Although it's taken a very long time, I'm enjoying the process, and I've learned a lot, so the build is already a success as far as I'm concerned.

I'm not sure re the amp - I currently have a Hartke kickback 12 (which I'll hook up to test the cab, disconnecting the internal speaker, as I'm familiar with the tone), I also have a 70's Traynor YBA1-A which I may try (just for fun, it probably won't be enough power for gigs and I'm not sure if it will play nice with the impedance curve of a ported cab..)

So I'll probably order a Hartke LH500 to go with the cab now as I could do with something soon for gigging, but I am also considering starting a tube amp build (I've built several guitar amps), inspired by the Ampeg V4b. I need to actually finish the cab first though

Yesterday I finished the template for the speakon recess, routed it, added some remaining bits of filler, and started on the template for the side handles.

[Phil Starr]

Ha, I have a Hartke kickback too and of course the Beyma in a cab, I might try it myself, if nothing else it'll tell me what the Hartke speaker sounds like compared with a flat response.

[6v6]

Handle template made, recesses routed:

I decided not to rebate the handles flush, as it would mean routing nearly all the way through the 15mm panel (currently ~11mm depth), however now I can't decide if I should just laminate another 15mm offcut on the inside, to ensure the area around the handle is reinforced and strong (related to whether I use self-tapping screws or T-nuts to secure the handles, I'm not sure what's best, but I'll need to use T-nuts if I don't laminate another layer as the self-tappers will be too short to hold securely)

I'm also trying to figure out if I need to laminate over the inside of the speakon recess (which does go all the way through the panel) - Ideally I wanted to drill the speakon plate for a 6.3mm switchcraft socket (so I can use jack or speakon cables), but then I'll have a 1/4" hole in the back of the box, so I guess I'll have to create an airtight enclosure behind the socket.

Planning to put the speaker in and fire it up for a first test at lunchtime!

[Phil Starr]

Good luck, hope you like the way it sounds.

[sprocket123]

Love this cab thread , going great . Keep it on .

[6v6]

So, apologies once again for the infrequent updates, a busy period at work has interrupted progress, but today I finally got the chance to hear the cab for the first time

In summary, it sounds great, fat, punchy, warm, everything I was hoping for. The top end is pretty subdued, so I can understand now why some folks would want a tweeter (or mid-range) driver in a cab like this - there is a lot less treble and clank than with the stock Hartke speaker. However it's a brand new driver, so I imagine it will open up a bit with use, and for my (rock/blues/folk) usage there is certainly enough top end.

I a-b'd the Hartke speaker and the Beyma, and it's a really night/day contrast - the Hartke sounds fine, but in comparison it's clanky, harsh and boomy - the new cab has much much more low end extension, a tighter and more punchy mid-bass, and the mid range is much more detailed (my Precision sounds woody and "characterful" whereas through the Hartke built in speaker it tends to be either boomy/pillowy or a little bit clanky, it's hard to dial in much inbetween)

Anyway, I'm more than happy enough to go ahead and get the tuff-cab out, and get it out gigging. Shame the kickback won't drive 4 ohms or I could use both as a stack





Edit: spelling

Edited October 5, 2013 by 6v6

[Phil Starr]

I'm really pleased it has worked out, that flat clean response takes some getting used to, I really like the Hartke sound but it does clank and it makes all my basses sound a bit 'Hartke' which is good in some situations but not others. What I like about the Beyma is the control over the deep bass, as you say it does bring out the sound of the bass. I find them a lot less boomy on stage too.

were you using the Hartke in the kickback position? If so you might be losing the top end because the speaker is no longer pointing at you, the audience might be hearing more than you are.

Of course the solution is a second Beyma, You'd better keep those templates.

[6v6]

[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1381014981' post='2233518']
I'm really pleased it has worked out, that flat clean response takes some getting used to, I really like the Hartke sound but it does clank and it makes all my basses sound a bit 'Hartke' which is good in some situations but not others. What I like about the Beyma is the control over the deep bass, as you say it does bring out the sound of the bass. I find them a lot less boomy on stage too.
[/quote]

Yeah, I'm certainly not saying the Hartke sounds bad, I've been pretty happy with it for what it is (a small, cheap practice combo), but I now realize what it is lacking, which is that low end extension, and low-mid "push", which is what I've been looking for. I'm a grove/pocket type player and that punchy low-mid push that ties in with the drums and provides a foundation for the rest of the band is what I really need. Trying to dial it in on the Hartke has always been a challenge, and I think it's going to be much, much easier with the Beyma. All I need now is to decide what head I'm going to pair with it which will suit that usage.

[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1381014981' post='2233518']
were you using the Hartke in the kickback position? If so you might be losing the top end because the speaker is no longer pointing at you, the audience might be hearing more than you are.
[/quote]

No, it was as in the last photo above, but that's a good point, I guess the Hartke was much closer to ear-level than the Beyma so I was probably not hearing the treble of each cab from an equal perspective.

[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1381014981' post='2233518']
Of course the solution is a second Beyma, You'd better keep those templates.
[/quote]

Haha, yeah, that was half the reason for making them

I'm going to gig this one for a while, and if it works out I definitely do plan to build a second one for a full stack (possibly with a tweeter or mid driver and crossover)

Got a rehearsal today so may take the cab along for a proper test

[sprocket123]

Wow , came out great !

[6v6]

Tuff Cab done, going to wait a couple of days to ensure it's fully hardened then do final assembly:

[discreet]

Great. More pics please, when you're ready.

[sprocket123]

Nice fifnish in there .

[Phil Starr]

It's looking great, how did it sound at the rehearsal?

[6v6]

[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1381358710' post='2238183']
It's looking great, how did it sound at the rehearsal?
[/quote]

It sounded really good - the room was too small to really use much volume, but there's definitely way, way more low end extension and low-mid punch. I'll post a more detailed description after it's been used in anger at gig volumes (got a few coming up but not until next month), but so far I'm very pleased.

Already making plans for a DIY head to go with it, followed by another beyma loaded cab

[sprocket123]

Wow , will look for the DIY Head for shure! Please post a link to it when available !