paint finishes and buckle rash

[john_the_bass]

I've got a (few years old) S1 Precision bass in black - it was near mint when i bought it and developed lots of buckely type scratches all over the back in the lacquer - i only wear a belt when i wear a suit or work clothes so i've never played it with a belt on - i'm guessing it's caused by shirt buttons and whatnot. I've also got a stingray which was like new when i got it - it was literally unused and despite my best efforts, has pretty much remained in a similar condition - also black

is there a difference in finish or the top layer on the bodies between musicman and fender and is there a way of cutting the lacquer back (ie with the bass version of t cut!) to remove the scratches? Not that I'm bothered of course, but if i was to sell it, it would be nice to sell it clean

[Buzz]

You probably could just use t-cut to get rid of the buckle rash.

I'd say it'll be down to the toughness of the lacquer.

[thumbo]

[quote name='Buzz' post='21367' date='Jun 21 2007, 01:37 PM']You probably could just use t-cut to get rid of the buckle rash.

I'd say it'll be down to the toughness of the lacquer.[/quote]


T-cut? Are you sure? I've got a feeling that stuff might do something nasty to a bass.

Fender make a 'swirl and haze' remover, that might be worth looking into but it depends on how deep the scratches are.

[Musky]

T Cut is fine for removing light scratches, though you don't want to go crazy with it. Just thin it out with water. Then use a lighter compound to remove any swirls.

[kevbass]

I wouldnt use T-cut, I did once and I ended up with what appeared to be smears on the area that I used it, if I were you I'd just leave it, black tends to show up more lacquer scratches than other colours anyways.

[Musky]

[quote name='kevbass' post='21550' date='Jun 21 2007, 07:42 PM']I wouldnt use T-cut, I did once and I ended up with what appeared to be smears on the area that I used it, if I were you I'd just leave it, black tends to show up more lacquer scratches than other colours anyways.[/quote]

Yeah, T cut is relatively course (though still not as abrasive as the finest wet-and-dry used wet).

It will remove light scratches but can take a bit of the sheen off. Which is why you'd need to finish off with a finer rubbing compound.

[Guest]

T-cut do a conpound in a tube its called scratch and swirl remover or something similar, that works well, silvo metal polish can also work

[martthebass]

[quote name='john_the_bass' post='21335' date='Jun 21 2007, 12:43 PM']is there a difference in finish or the top layer on the bodies between musicman and fender and is there a way of cutting the lacquer back (ie with the bass version of t cut!) to remove the scratches? Not that I'm bothered of course, but if i was to sell it, it would be nice to sell it clean[/quote]

Often thought this meself. I had a white MM 'Ray (1990), only had to blow on the finish and it would fall off. At the same time I had a 1996 MIM red Jazz that I'm sure the paint job would have withstood a nuclear blast. What gives?

[BOD2]

[quote name='martthebass' post='22461' date='Jun 23 2007, 08:24 PM']Often thought this meself. I had a white MM 'Ray (1990), only had to blow on the finish and it would fall off. At the same time I had a 1996 MIM red Jazz that I'm sure the paint job would have withstood a nuclear blast. What gives?[/quote]


Could this be the difference between a polyester finish and a nitrocellulose finish ? I don't know what MM finiished their instruments with but I know Fender changed from the original nitrocellulose finish to polyester and that the more modern polyester finish is definitely harder wearing.

[Kiwi]

Musicman changed from nitro to poly around 1979.

[neepheid]

[quote name='BOD2' post='22477' date='Jun 23 2007, 09:11 PM']the more modern polyester finish is definitely harder wearing.[/quote]

Tell me about it

*goes back to sanding*