MarkG3 Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 (edited) I'm trying to get lower action on my fender dirnt and it seems like the truss rod is tightend as far as it can go, it can be loosened as I've checked but it definitely won't go tighter, I don't want to use any more force as I don't want it to break. If I lower the string saddles any more the neck buzzes really bad from fret 12 upwards. I've read some people putting a washer on behind the nut to get more turns but I don't have a nut as you'll see it's just like a big screw head. Any suggestions? Just thinking would shimming the neck help at all? Edited March 20, 2013 by OBT1000_S12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiOgon Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 First - have you slackened the strings right off before trying to turn the adjuster? Then apply back bow to the neck by hand pressure before tightening the truss rod a 1/4 turn no more & relax! Retune & try, leave 24 hours at normal room temp/humidity - try again - repeat if neccessary. If you have done that - sorry can't help Shimming is usually only required if you don't have the range of height adjustment you would like at the bridge saddles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkG3 Posted March 20, 2013 Author Share Posted March 20, 2013 (edited) Thanks for the reply, yea I took the neck right off as I couldn't get to it from that angle, what do you mean by applying back bow by hand pressure? Edited March 20, 2013 by OBT1000_S12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiOgon Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 You can take the strain off the truss rod by bending the neck wood by hand - letting the thread on the truss rod work without strain. If you've got the neck off it's easy, place the neck fretboard down on a work surface, then put a 'raiser block' of about 1" at both ends so there's space under the middle of the neck. push down on the neck to bend it towards the worktop, this takes all the strain off the threads & you should be able to adjust the screw head - about 1/4 of a turn no more, then relax the wood, reassemble & try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkG3 Posted March 20, 2013 Author Share Posted March 20, 2013 Huzzah! It worked and actually plays so much better, It felt like I was really having to try hard to play it as it was. Much better thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiOgon Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 You're welcome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maldy Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 I had this exact same problem yesterday, but with my RW Jazz. Unfortunately, I didn't spot this very useful post until after I solved the problem! I think this would have saved me a lot of time! I got to the solution via the following which might be useful to some: http://www.garywillis.com/pages/bass/bassmanual/setupmanual.html And http://www.fender.com/support/articles/bass-guitar-setup-guide/ Was wondering if there were any stickies for these probably quite common set up problems? I know it is all the Internet somewhere, but sometimes you have to discard a load of rubbish before you get to the right solution. Also, is this a common feature of Jazz necks? Is the truss rod really at its max, or is just fighting a lot of tension and stress? Previously, I had my bass set up for me. But it seems to have changed recently (maybe the weather ?). I decided that a change of strings and a tweak of the set up was needed. I felt I had enough knowledge to do this myself and I feel it is a good thing to be able to do (and save money!). Don't get me wrong, I'm not ready for fret levelling and stuff like that, but relief, action and intonation, I at least understand the basic principles. Anyway, great and useful post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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